THIS POST! i spent hours messing around with the mcp6004s & resistors on my two channels that weren’t working right. Ten seconds reflowing the corresponding pins on the MUX and it’s working perfectly. <3 <3 <3

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Just finished the build. Amazing unit! Had a bit of a glitchy read on fader one, a reflow was enough to fix it. Web editor working flawlessly too.
Enclosure in acrylic designed by me :slight_smile:

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Finally getting around to order the parts for my build, quite excited about it!
I actually found a number of 10k sliders in a box, however they have a logarithmic curve, not a linear one. Is there a more or less simple workaround to use those? Will dig deeper into the firmware but didn’t spot anything too obvious on first sight.

Edit: Might as well include the best result my search provided: Here is a line of code that converts the potentiometer to 0/16383 using the map() function. This thread from the arduino forum seems fitting, albeit not very promising.

If you plan on using it for cv, the cv outs are direct voltage that is physically divided down by the hardware. Changes in firmware will have no effect on the cv output curve. Something to consider.

Good point.
Should have mentioned that i am not interested in the cv outputs.

there is probably a fix in code solely for the digital outputs (MIDI/I2C) to remap log to linear, but it will likely not be 100% perfect, just because of how pots work.

Anyone have an octopart bom? Link in the wiki is dead.

I just regenerated one based on my own spreadsheet with mouser part numbers but some of those are no longer available.

So… you’ll need to edit this further
https://octopart.com/bom-tool/YIpLud5n

awesome, thanks for this!

Link on wiki is now fixed, but you can find it here. The 16 CUI jacks are listed there, but using PJ302s from Thonk, as the Wiki says, is much more cost-effective. I would definitely recommend working out what you need to order, rather than just hitting “add-to-cart” on that BOM.

I just built my 16n from a board with (almost) all of the smd components already soldered. I’m having a strange behavior. when I go into the config the fader values will affect other fader channels. They also don’t go all the way down, some go part way down, and some go partway then go back to 127. Here is a video of me moving the each fader from top to bottom to top again. once I have gone through all of them I moved multiple at the same time. Here are photos of the board itself.

Check all the joints on the clusters of four resistors by each opamp. Pretty sure some of them might be dry, and if they are, you’re putting more than 3V3 into the mix, which has the effect of overflowing into other channels and doing all manner of confusing things. Some of the resistors look almost conservative in the size of the solder joints, which is not a thing I usually say here!

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Has anyone built one of these? I’m considering it, and would love a few hot takes. Also, the BOM calls for Eurorack jacks that ship from the UK. Anyone know where I could find these in the US?

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/3-5mm-jacks/

Edit- ended up ordered from Thonk.

hi everyone! i just ordered the BOM from Mouser for building some 16n devices, super excited.

i am writing to ask for help to double check my PCB order from oshpark.com

i uploaded the 16n_gerbers_schematic_131.zip file available at the repository, and i took screenshots of what i got. am i doing it right? https://www.are.na/aaron-montoya-moraga/building-16n

it is way cheaper to order 10, i might do that and sell the spare ones here :slight_smile:

If you uploaded the contents of the released gerbers to a board vendor, it should be correct.

There are, I believe, people reselling PCBs online already, I think. More than the per-unit cost of making your own at a cheap overseas house, less than the cost per-unit at OSH, if you’d prefer to go that way.

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thank you!

i sent an email to pusherman with some questions, and it seems like the easiest and cheapest option :slight_smile:

Anyone build the 16n Berlin Modular Edition for Eurorack pcb from Pusherman? The design looks good for my needs but I’m worried about comparability.

Hi there! Two enclosure/cap related questions:

  • Has anyone found/used the fader caps in the attached picture in your 16n builds? I’m not sure of where to find them.

  • What thickness material is recommended for the top panel? I have access to some 6mm-thick white acrylic but I wanted to check and see if that was too thick.

Thanks for the help!

Ebay?
Red
Blue
Orange
Black

3mm is typical material thickness

This can depend on how deep your fader caps “sit” on the fader tangs. In some builds I had fader caps that sat really high, so I used a taller standoff for the top half (to get them to be more flush to the surface, rather that floating a few mm above).

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can confirm both of these answers: I built that faderbank, and the rounded caps are just from a local ebay seller. Can’t name them specifically - they might be sifam?

Top panel is up to you, but 3mm is usually recommended for plastic, thinner for metal (again, that one you screengrabbed is 3mm plastic, which is as thick as I’d go, if only because of fader heights - screw heights are easily altered.