#439

Finished mine over the weekend, straight nice built, had to improvise with the spacers.
Ended up looking darth vader ish :robot:

image
17CCEB62-FDC8-44F0-B175-6E400123C2DD.jpeg3598×2313 1.68 MB
image
DF31979C-B346-42AC-8EBE-838B45ABC682.jpeg4032×3024 2.15 MB

9 Likes
#440

Is anyone other than me interested in the prospect of an old-school MIDI DIN out for this? I would LOVE something like this to work with my old hardware MIDI modules.

#441

I just grabbed a 10$ TRS->DIN adapter and it works great with my microgranny.

1 Like
#442

Brilliant! Thanks @distancing … I shouldn’t be surprised that such a thing exists. :grinning:

#443

you can make your own very cheaply, or you might have one lying around from one of the many modern instruments that ship with adaptors; but your use case is one I very much encourage!

#445

Hello i was wondering if this is the right Teensy ?

https://www.elfadistrelec.no/no/teensy-adafruit-2756/p/30129200?channel=b2c&price_gs=263.75&source=googleps&ext_cid=shgooaqnono-na&pup_e=1&pup_cid=35879&pup_id=30129200&gclid=CjwKCAjwsIbpBRBNEiwAZF8-z51W3R-hVBhfZrhi64DhFMKR-mK17kW2A0BeGVfRgYBgxf8JcYIu6hoCKfoQAvD_BwE

Thanks in advance.
Robin

#446

Teensy 3.2 is correct, yes

1 Like
#447

thank you :slight_smile:

#448

any input on how or where i can build / buy faceplate :)? kind regards Robin

#449

Can anyone confirm that it is possible to both power a 16n via USB connection to an iPad and have it send MIDI data over the same USB to control various apps? I believe it is supposed to work but I’ve yet to come across anyone showing this.

#450

I can only confirm it should be possible: it’s a class compliant MIDI device, so should work with a camera connection kit or similar. I’m afraid I don’t own an iPad recent enough to test this with, however.

1 Like
#451

Anyone using a 16n with a shuttle control? That makes sense, right? Say I set an output to be an lfo, 16n could be mapped to change speed, depth, offset? Thanks in advance for any insight

#453

I wanted to share a useful i2c connection hack that has worked for me. If you have a decent 5v rail in your case, you can use this handy Doepfer USB breakout module to power your 16n:

It turns out that near the top of the panel there’s nothing behind it, and there’s enough space to drill a hole for a 3.5mm TRS socket roughly where it says “USB Sup”. If you use a socket like this then you can easily connect three little hookup wires to your i2c lead device without any soldering. Then you can connect your 16n with a standard stereo 3.5mm cable.

12 Likes
#454

maybe a bit off-topic, but I’ve seen a few people mark and/or label their grids/16NFaderbanks with tape. I’d like to do the same, so was hoping ofr some suggestions as to tape that won’t damage the enclosures too much. Thanks!

Monome Beginner Questions
#455

gaffer tape is ideal for that sort of thing. it doesn’t have the extra gooey sticky of electrical or duct tape, and has a fabric-like surface that you can write on. masking tape will usually work ok but has a tendency to be hard to remove after a while.

#456

I’ve been using a label embosser for that vintage feel

Not sure how well they will peel off years down the road, but the enclosures are aluminum so it can’t be that bad.

2 Likes
#457

Hi. I’m writing to confirm this. I just tried it out on an iPad, with the 16n connected via a USB cable and the “camera kit” connector. I used MIDI learn in the AudioKit Synth One app, and got various knobs to recognize the faders. Worked on the first try.

I also did it in Patterning, using the 16n to control attack, decay, etc.

And all the while, the only thing powering the 16n was the iPad itself.

4 Likes
#458

I think I’ve needed to use a hub for some things (not the 16n) with my Norns (been awhile), but this worked on its own with the iPad.

#459

As I’m coming up to speed on using my 16n with my ER-301, I’m more and more wanting an “i2c button” device, primarily to see about implementing mute (and perhaps solo) on a mixer unit.

4 Likes
#460

Eesh, I don’t know. Gaff gets pretty gross over time, especially if it’s the cheaper stuff.

Classic tan masking tape is also bad. Some of the blue stuff is ok, but usually rated for a few days to weeks of removable time.

The drafting/artists-tape tends to be pretty reliable. Sticky enough to stay, tends to not rot as fast, its white and takes pen nicely.