16n is a bank of faders [release thread]

Jordskred · 2022-04-01T16:10:23.777Z

i use blankets for all my gear but this dust protector by @okyeron looks great and works amazing

dust1920×1440 248 KB

21echoes · 2022-04-01T17:36:38.760Z

that does look beautiful! but i’m looking for something that goes over the top and protects the whole thing when not in use, vs a more “permanent” insert that doesn’t protect the main faders (as per 16n is a bank of faders [release thread] - #434 by infovore)

robotfunk · 2022-04-01T20:25:57.910Z

Thanks, I’ve been looking for something like this between my 16n and Assimil8or, ordered instantly!

zentrumsounds · 2022-04-02T14:01:54.417Z

A2Vprojects 16N has switchable voltage ranges in two 8 fader banks. 0-5V or 0-10V. Powered by USB.

Thhhh · 2022-04-16T09:13:18.594Z

A bit of a16n/modular question: I have teletype or norns as the brain of my system, and I would like to add 16n as an fader/expander of TT. To get from jumpers to jack, I was thinking of just making an converter/output on the side of my skiff, IDC socket to minijack.

Has anyone done this before? Is there a nice, orderable solution, or would I just have to make a tiny pcb with the two components?

SimonKirby · 2022-04-16T10:09:34.440Z

I use an Intellijel XY 1u module for this purpose. See the post here for how to wire it up: A user's guide to i2c - #392 by SimonKirby

One thing to be very careful with is to avoid hot plugging with anything powered up as the TRS jack will short things briefly when you plug it in.

Edit: here’s the module: XY I/O 1U - intellijel

zbs · 2022-04-16T11:50:32.922Z

As well as the XY there’s the expert sleepers TMB. It’s just a set of trs jacks with pin headers on the back, works perfect.

nonverbalpoetry · 2022-04-16T12:53:51.136Z

Making a PCB is a bit overkill if going the DIY route. I just cut one end off some regular i2c jumpers and soldered the wires to a stereo jack socket. Drilled a 5mm hole in the side of my case, added a big “DO NOT HOT PLUG” label to remind myself and it works perfectly.

Thhhh · 2022-04-16T12:57:44.297Z

Good suggestions! My current rack is quite full, so I thought maybe to find a solution where I can avoid using any hp. Basically just drilling in a stereo jack with headers on the side of the rack. After a bit of googling, something like this..

@nonverbalpoetry: Yeah, that would work. I splurged on ribbon cable and IDC connectors to make a neat custom solution for the rest of my rack, so something that would be compatible with this would be great, but that might be as easy as direct soldering a plug.

Good tip on the hot plugging from y’all.

nonverbalpoetry · 2022-04-16T13:01:00.137Z

Thhhh:

something like this.

You’ve got one to many Rs there, and without a thread it will be hard to mount. I used something like this. Just as easy to solder as the little PCB, there’s really no need for a breakout board in this situation 3.5mm Stereo Jack Socket - Panel Mount | HIFICollective

Thhhh · 2022-04-16T14:12:46.056Z

I know, it was more illustrative of my imagination. I think they do TRS as well, but then there’s the lack of thread… I appreciate you highlighting the potential issues though! Also, «panel mount» is a good search term for what I’m looking for. Helps me to be precise in my search.

zbs · 2022-04-17T17:41:48.248Z

even more common and simpler: 3.5mm Eurorack Jacks – Thonk – DIY Synthesizer Kits & Components

47 cents each. p2p soldering is kind of annoying but you’ll only have to do it once. these can be panel or pcb mounted

Dewb · 2022-04-18T22:00:15.042Z

A more expensive option, but this might be easier to fit into a tight space:

Default Store View

PHILMORE Panel Mount 1/8

Chassis or Panel mounting 3.5mm 3 Conductor with solder terminals Completely sealed jack Non-switching Mounts in 1/4 hole in panels up to .075 thick With hardware, attractive knurled nut

Installed on 4hp 1U panel with power entry:

image1165×1553 198 KB

okyeron · 2022-04-18T22:21:01.176Z

Folks above looking for i2c to minijack options…

I just made a small run of 1uTXb

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image1920×1440 236 KB

Power and pull-ups for your i2c bus

Thhhh · 2022-04-19T15:22:07.627Z

Heh, wow. If only I had a 1u row on my rack.

Blit · 2022-04-30T19:40:34.480Z

I modeled a 3d panel in Tinkercad for it for my printer. Because of its size, i had to split it in two. Maybe there´s a better approach to mask that gap but so far, its working good and i like it better than the wooden panel (which bends a lot).

I had some problems with my printer calibration on one panel but it should print fine on yours. If someone have a better idea for fixing that gap, that would be great

Here are the files

20220430_1111551395×918 431 KB

20220430_1112011136×1153 380 KB

20220430_111207539×576 91.5 KB

junkface · 2022-05-04T19:06:48.850Z

Having a heck of a time sourcing the Teensie 3.2 and wondering if I could substitute with the 4.0 or the LC. Forgive the (likely) silly question, I’m a total newb to the intricacies of Arduino.

eigen · 2022-05-04T22:03:47.420Z

LC yes, same footprint as the 3.2 and the project provides builds for it (see releases on github).

~~The 4.0 is much bigger in size.~~ i stand corrected, see post just bellow.

okyeron · 2022-05-05T06:21:34.313Z

T4.0 is same size as T3.2 and pin compatible for this use I think (does the DAC pin get used- I can’t remember). (Would require compiling firmware yourself and using a different i2c library - the i2c2midi folks have done some testing there)

4.1 is bigger.

Dewb · 2022-05-05T06:24:56.011Z

4.0 also only has 10-bit ADCs vs the 3.x’s 13-bit and the LC’s 12. Not a huge deal, but something to consider if you use I2C or want to use 14-bit MIDI in the future.