#62

Yeah, meant ears and mask. I still use the dust shoe inside the enclosure for most things. My enclosure is just particle board over a 2x4 frame with acrylic windows and led lights. It’s not the prettiest thing, but it cuts the sound way down and only cost me like $80.

Bad project shop pano, still in progress:

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I have it in the basement, along with my soldering station, etc so yes - full DIY space. Cutting metal is pretty loud (have only done a tiny bit of it) but the bigger thing was mdf dust. First time I cut it without a mask (n00b) and felt a slight burning in my chest for weeks. Now I sttill wear the mask with mdf even when it’s in the enclosure. I am just using a regular shop vac connected to my dust shoe, but also have it running through a cyclone extractor and bought the HEPA filter for it.

Registration isn’t something that the Carbide software does automatically, but you can figure out ways to do it with dowels and/or fences if you’re tricky. :wink:

I don’t have a touch probe and have never felt constrained without it. Honestly, I don’t see why so many people feel like they need it/one without having a tool changer. :man_shrugging:

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#63

Just printed (using my Ender 3) and painted these for my son’s birthday party:

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#64

Awesome! Our house loves Puffin Rock.

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#65

Ooh, very nice. I presume you primed/fillered/sanded them? They look quite polished and smooth!

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#66

Yes, exactly. Light sanding, followed by priming, then hand painting, and a final clear coat. This was my first time trying to paint something I’ve printed. Although I think it turned out pretty well in the end, the paint didn’t adhere super well to the primer. Maybe that is just because of cheap/poor choice of primer or paint, I’m not sure?

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#67

Hmm, I guess. I know it’s a common enough thing people do, so it may come down to that. May also be a water/oil-based thing with regards to the primer and whatever you used to paint the rest on with (acrylic?).

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#68

Thanks for this - very easy build. So much fun with orac and norns - love it !!

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Fates - a DIY norns DAC board for Raspberry Pi
#69

Wow this is so nice looking! Where to get the whole assembled kit? Am i too late?

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#70

nice @forestcaver, like the blue … and I really wish my case was matt too :slight_smile:

Q. whats your design? as you dont have tabs, or screws on the front panel which is really nice.
(perhaps possible because you are 3d printing, rather than laser cutting?)

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#71

Yes - 3d printing! It’s not my design either :slight_smile: I’ve only just got a printer and am learning !
Ps Thanks for orac and sidekick - painless install with no issues !

I used this design (which has internal standoffs that accept 2.5mm screws):

3 Likes
#72

ah thats really neat :slight_smile:

so, I was looking at Sculpteo, and they have a variety of materials for printing
(its quite expensive though… but I trust them to do a decent job)

the default material is
SLS/Nylon PA12 100-120µ … is this the correct thing?
they offer it dyed, so I think this could give me the matt black that I’d quite like

one concern, perhaps you, @jedgar or @frankchannel can comment on…
I noticed the design doesn’t have any ventilations slots … is this a problem with rPI4?
Im wondering about adding some to prompt a bit of air flow…

#73

I am so new to 3d printing ! The Fates case tipped me over the edge into getting one but had been meaning to get one for ages (so I bought one to make a Fates case ! I made a few astronomy things first to test it)

I bought an Ender 3 Pro (£230 off amazon) and am pretty happy with it - bit of a learning curve to get decent prints though.

I used PLA

I have been using it continually for the last 5 hours - running sequencers and synths eg running rebound with ~20 balls or awake etc, the temperature (in norns) is reported as 65 deg C. The case where the processor is is warm but not hot… I’m using a 4gb raspberry pi4… no additional clocking or throttling changes.

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#74

Hmm, that’s a good price for a printer - perhaps I should consider getting a printer - there’s a few projects I could print enclosures for :wink:

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#75

I did a fair bit of research, including asking on here and several people recommended it so, at that price, it was a no-brainer experiment ! (ie I wouldnt lose too much if it was crap !)
I bought stronger springs when I got it though - that seemed to make sense…
One issue with it is setting the print distance (extruder to bed) - you need to do it manually (some more expensive printers do this automatically). It’s not too hard though and I fine tune it when printing the first layer…
Overall, for the price, I’m absolutely delighted with it…

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#76

That blue is gorgeous.

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#77

I made one version with a bunch of vent hole in it, but decide to try one without. I think the flow of the cutouts for the right side and back side RPi ports are sufficient for airflow, and have had no problems so far. Running a 4GB RPi4.

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#78

Sidenote - for 3D printers, the recently released Prusa Mini is the one to beat right now, I think:

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#79

Maybe we could move 3D printing stuff to a new thread?

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#80

I recently acquired a second hand MakerBot Replicator (Fifth Generation) with some PLA spools and two extruders. It’s…working. I would not recommend anyone buy anything new from MakerBot. But after two days and a bunch of disassembly I got one of the two extruders to…well…extrude.

I have zero CAD experience. I have Fusion and Eagle and I don’t really know where to start. I’m just importing other’s designs into the software and derping around. Doesn’t feel too productive.

If anyone could share some n00b getting started stories I think my anxiety could go away. Thanks!

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#81

For me it was just designing little practical things and iterating over stuff.

Another big turning point for me was also tinkercad, since it’s next to impossible for a beginner/intermediate user to import and modify an .stl in Fusion. In tinkercad you can, very easily, import a design, and modify it.

I managed to modify the mounting bracket someone else had designed for me to work with a crossfader instead, and even though it got a bit complicated making complex shapes like that in tinkercad, I wasn’t able to (and still can’t) do anythign like that to/with an existing design in Fusion.