#123

One thing you might try is to flip the enclosure upside down so the surface you want to engrave is flat against your mill table. You might need to drill a couple pot/switch holes first or get creative with holding it down. Then mill down the edges just barely until there is fresh material exposed all around. Now when you flip it back over, it’s hopefully parallel with the table.

1 Like
#124

I milled the bottom edge first but the top was still not flat. The variation is very small but when you’re milling only a fraction of a millimeter it’s noticeable.

#125

I ran into this issue before and although I haven’t tried this yet, i was planning on trying this auto leveling setup next time:

It probes via conductivity, so I figure an enclosure should work just the same as a pcb.

#126

On my 3D printer the leveling routine uses the z-axis probe sensor. Perhaps something like that would be possible? I would need to check but I think it senses metal points embedded in the PCB bed. Should work with a fully metal surface.
I didn’t watch the video perhaps it’s the same thing.

#127

People with printers learn how make masks or ventilators:

#128

FWIW - that “NanoHack mask” is complete BS

3 Likes
#129

Adventures in transducers.

Don’t think I posted this one before, but I created a compact holder for a tiny transducer which I can use along side my feedback snare stuff.

IMG_0049
IMG_00493024×4032 2.31 MB

I need to film a short video demoing it, but it’s really responsive and I can get really interesting interactions between the microphone and the transducer, as feedbacking through the snare head itself.

And after a bunch of prototyping and sketching I came up with a mount and enclosure for a larger transducer which would be mounted on the side of the snare drum:

IMG_0095
IMG_00954032×3024 1.56 MB
IMG_0094
IMG_00944032×3024 2.13 MB

The curved bit is meant to rest on the side of the drum, with a solid flat surface for the transducer to press against. The ‘lid’ bit is just to protect the transducer and to have somewhere to mount a jack so I can take it on and off.

I want to find a better solution that scrunchies for the mounting as they not only lose their spring over time, it’s a pain to set them up and take them off. If anyone has any suggestions, I’m all ears. Although I’ve gotten better at sketching up things in Fusion, I still lack a ton of knowledge, and imagination in terms of what kind of things can be done mechanically.

I also want to fashion the bit that mounts on the drum out of wood (with the CNC) as my guess is that it would transmit the vibrations to the drum more efficiently than PLA.

4 Likes
#130

but scrunchies are good! :grin:

Maybe silicone o-rings instead?

#131

Hmm, do those “retain” their pulling power?

I was wanting to come up with a way to have a mechanical thing that holds stuff in place, with like twisty bits and/or springs or something like that. It’s just hard to picture/imagine.

1 Like
#132

3d printed some “chicken legs” for my frekvens speaker: https://www.instagram.com/p/B-F0ylohm8H

2 Likes
#133

I think I’d like a resin printer, but have no real need.

#134

I’ve been thinking about it too, as there’s a ton of inexpensive machines coming out now with decent reviews.

For most of what I do, however, regular FDM/functional printing is just fine. It would definitely open up some interesting artistic/aesthetic possibilities with @Angela, so we will probably get one at some point. Just haven’t had the urgent need for one.

#135

image

The Summon Fuzz. Big Muff with a clean blend.

14 Likes
#136

Resin is lovely in terms of output, but it’s also messy - in the sense that it requires a decent amount of space, and somewhat ‘wet’ workspace to work in, if you have a printer that needs refilling from bottles, + wash setup. It is also vastly improved by proper wash (in alcohol) and cure (UV) setups. We have some formlabs printers in my studio and they’re just great - really good quality, and, thanks to the cartridge system, not that messy. But they’re not cheap.

The low-end resin printers do look good, but it seems like there’ll be a bit of dialling-in to be done, and the print volume is much smaller than FDM printers of a similar price bracket. Basically, cheap resin printers are all priced around the size of the LCD panel in the bottom, which acts as an upper bound on sizing.

#137

I made a DIY “upgrade” to my Ender 3, so I could print the top and bottom of this Neotrellis enclosure I designed as single pieces:

blue_grid
blue_grid1200×1800 1.03 MB

The upgrade went like this:

  1. Buy a piece of 2040 aluminum extrusion to make a longer Y-axis. Quickly realize that there are multiple types of extrusion (T-slot, V-slot, etc). I bought the wrong type.
  2. Create a V-slot in my T-slot extrusion using a router with a V-bit. Success.
  3. Drill and tap new mounting holes in the extrusion
  4. Get a longer GT2 belt for the Y-axis
  5. Install everything

Now I can print longer stuff, which wasn’t possible before, i.e., grid enclosures, op-z case, etc

10 Likes
#138

Has anyone tried a 3018 cnc machine? I’m close to buying one to try it…

#139

Anyone buy one of these Edelkrone Ortak things?

@Angela and I have a few Edelkrone things and they are fantastic. Very much remind me of monome aesthetic (clean, modern, etc…).

I saw they came out with this series of print-at-home products last year and finally got around to ordering a couple of them:

IMG_0162
IMG_01624032×3024 1.89 MB

IMG_0163
IMG_01634032×3024 2.38 MB

The idea is that they supply all the hardware, including tolerance-critical parts and the rest of the stuff you print at home.

I’d love to see more of this kind of thing happening.

2 Likes
#140

I watched videos on the tilt head kit the other day and plan on ordering that. Seems like it’s been improved a bit since it came out.

I am a little worried that plastic parts would have more flex/vibration over metal.

How’s the slider/car thingy?

#141

The slider thing feels nice. The wheels don’t move perfectly axially, but the car rolls smoothly. (I had my slicer settings set up where it put the seams for each layer in the same place (which you can see in the assembled pic)). Doesn’t seem to impact the rolliness though.

This thing feels pretty solid though. We printed it at 80% infill so it’s pretty hefty with all the metal parts. We also ordered the pocketSHOT, so will ese how sturdy that feels. We own the metal tilt head one (suuuper useful!), so there wasn’t any need to have another.

1 Like
#142

For a 3d printing noob like me… what brands of filament are considered great? Or alternately are there any to avoid? (PLA and maybe PETG - which I’ve not tried yet)

(fwiw - probably looking for something I can order from amazon, or a shop that’s currently shipping product)

My curent spool is by Hatchbox (black)