3D Printing / Digital Fabrication

[Rodrigo]

I’ve only really used PLA, though I’ve been wanting to try some PETG. My printer (CR-10s) is a bit on the big side, but I do want to make some kind of enclosure, or bag, for it to do ABS.

In terms of brands, I’ve mainly used GEEETECH, but mainly out of there not being too many choices in the UK/EU, so I don’t have a super informed position to speak from. I think other than it getting waterlogged, as long as you hone in a recipe (+/- for melting temp on the nozzle) you should be fine.

[Philternaut]

Since maybe back to 2016, PETG has been my go-to material for making anything functional that I need to care about that’s not TPU.

Once dialed in, it’s almost as fast as PLA, and so much less finicky than ABS. It can’t always handle all the tiny details that PLA can so you design around it. Let’s see for brands, all budget ones: Inland (pretty good), HatchBox (my baseline) and eSun (meh but generally works). Filament color matters for tuning! This is on an old cheap Wanhao that’s been variously modded over time.

PETG: Recommended.

[frankchannel]

I like PETG, but find it oozes and strings a lot. Do you find that too, and if so how do you get around that?

[Philternaut]

Retraction settings have helped with PETG oozing during moves. Depending on the stringing a quick light pass with a heat gun after the print has cooled can clean that up, and then a pass with a small file or drill bit usually takes care of the rest. Of course, what you’re printing might be trickier than what I’m doing but these have helped.

[jorgen83]

I guess we’re doing this now. Few more tests, then on to my Norns Shield and Neotrellis cases.

[jorgen83]

Alright party people, what am I going to be printing my Neotrellis and Norns shield case in: PETG or PLA?

[jamesbretz]

I would run PLA until you get familiar with the printer. Let me know if you have success with the neotrellis case, I want to run one but my filament supply is too low for experiments right now.

[ericmoderbacher]

I typically only print function things. I can’t recommend gravity sketch enough. It’s a really pleasant experience, most of the time I spend on my quest is in gravity sketch.

[frankchannel]

“Measure twice, cut once” is a wonderful adage that I have often ignored – like tonight when I missed a stud I was screwing into by about 2 cm. The specialty bolt I was using had to be retrieved so I ended up cutting a hole into the drywall so I could get it out.

Now onto the part about 3d printing. I quickly designed and printed out this nice grid to help patch the hole:

It is about 0.8mm thick. I carefully removed a little bit of drywall with a razor blade so it sits flush. I’ve patched over the hole now and it seems like it’ll work as intended.

[Rodrigo]

That’s a great idea!

I tend to use a bit of that fabric tape and then just spackle the hell out of it for a couple of days…

[andrew]

I think I’ve shared these elsewhere but now they are in this thread … !

made at school last fall for an upcoming show

andrew c. s., 2019
mirror scan, 13 x 10 x 2”
3D scan, poplar, CNC machine

andrew c. s., 2019
time path worm 2, 8 x 6 x 4”
3D scan, bézier curve, 3D printer

andrew c. s., 2019
time path worm 1, 6 x 6 x 4”
3D scan, bézier curve, 3D printer

[Nordseele]

About CNC: does anyone here own a “Shaper Origin” or has ever tried one?

I came across an ad today on Instagram and so I watched a lot of their videos, I’m speechless…

This machine seems completely amazing, especially with its “Workstation” as a complement.
If anyone has any experience with this machine, I would like to have your opinion. Apparently, they just started selling these machines in EU.

Origin + Workstation : Your Precision Workshop

Feel free to move this post to the “woodworking” thread if you think it belongs there instead of here.

[Rodrigo]

I’d seen that before but have been a bit dubious. As far as I can tell you are still physically moving the router, so there are probably accuracy issues with that.

The biggest thing that put me off, though, was that the videos I had seen relied on their special tape being on the material, which they would use for tracking position. And from memory it was, obviously, not cheap…

[Nordseele]

@Rodrigo

still physically moving the router, so there are probably accuracy issues with that.

As far as I understand you follow the path but the exact position of the router is adjusted electronically in real time.

@shapertools

Yes, having to buy the special tape (16€ per 45m roll) is not that great :-/ I wonder if it can be delicately removed and re-used

[DMR]

I haven’t used the Shaper myself, butI believe that the person moves the router to generally the right place, and then the device mechanically adjusts internally according to the tracking strips to maintain precision.

[karst]

big fan of the shaper. I have some friends who use them professionally and I think it’s a brilliant option when compared to the cost & bulk of a gantry system. I have no doubts about the accuracy of the system they use, I’ve seen it do really (really) precise cuts.

it’s worth noting that it’s really limited to flat cuts (or vertical cuts using the workstation or a similar jig), so it’s not really a replacement for 3D milling/carving in any way. I think a given cut is limited to a given depth, so you can’t even vary depth slightly across a cut, so it’s much more like a standard router in that way.

if you’re typically cutting flat wood stock and want to do more complex shapes (or do extremely precise cutouts) then I think it’s the best tool available today. some people also do brass and aluminium milling with them as well, but it seems like those materials are a little less forgiving and it might not be the absolute best way to get super clean finishes.

[Nordseele]

Thanks for this review !

Glad to read that this machine is very precise and really used by professionals too (that it’s not only a marketing thing). Considering the price, I don’t want to buy a “toy” if I decide to get one someday.

Yes I’m more into cutting flat wood than 3d milling. The fact that its only limits are set by the “Shaper tape” and not by the size of a gantry system is a huge plus in my opinion. + all the other features like svg import, etc… I hope I can try one soon, now that’s it’s sold in Europe. I want to see if it’s as easy to use as it seems.

I’ve looked at all the projects posted in the “Shaper Hub”, many interesting things… The downside is the need to buy and stock the “domino tape” perhaps, but…

But I also would like to cut and engrave aluminum sometimes, Eurorack panels for example, if it’s not really good for that it’s a bit problematic but this downside might be compensated by all the great things already possible with wood.

[karst]

I think engraving would be a much safer bet, depending on what level of complexity you’re looking for. I wouldn’t rely on it for meaningful milling of metals, but if you’re taking a flat sheet of ~2mm thick aluminum and cutting a panel to size and then engraving on top of it, it should be able to handle that. it could also probably handle cutting holes in that panel as well (but maybe using a drill press would be cleaner, idk).

keep in mind that while gantry systems are limited by their size, the shaper can have some issues if you’re not careful on longer workspaces. there’s an involved scanning procedure and you need to work to get multiple perspectives on the workspace (defined by the shaper tape) and take care not to distort the tape when laying it down (or you’ll introduce drift across your intended cut).

all that said, if you’re careful you can work on entire 4x8 sheets of plywood and the cost difference between the shaper and a good 4x8 gantry system will buy you a lot of shaper tape.

I’ll also point out that the shaper doesn’t need shaper tape where it’s cutting, but it needs it around where it is cutting, so for smaller workspaces you can easily create jigs or borders that have shaper tape permanently applied and so long as the shaper has a good view of that tape it can orient itself. it’s a good way to save on tape and get working more quickly.

[Nordseele]

Great advice, thank you. Yes for the “Shaper tape”, it’s not really for the price of the roll, but I don’t want not to be able to use the machine if the tape is “out of stock”, it’s just a matter of stocking a few rolls I guess But if it is not cut during machining, it might be possible to create a fixed guide like you suggest or perhaps even re-use it if it is not damaged or distorted. I understand its critical importance in the process.

Regarding aluminum I will try to ask their sales department too, maybe they will agree to post a demo and we will see…

[karst]

I’ll also just point out that the official workstation would work great for any uniform sheet of aluminum of a reasonable size and you’d never need to use shaper tape at all.