#209

hi all, apologies if this has come up numerous times already, but i was curious if anyone had insight into the potentiality of building a sort of negative voltage filter to protect lorre mill gear being patched with external gear?

I ask because I built a big rollz thing i would love to try to use to trigger keys on my mosstone, but i’m terrified of breaking it.

thanks so much for any ideas. i’m very new to electronics and stilll trying to wrap my head around what negative voltage is, exactly.

ugh, just saw @tansaturn 's whole thread about this very thing - thank you!!

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#210

hey n terms of the negatve voltage filter, would it be safe to use a1n5158, or 1n914 ?

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#211

1n914 should be alright. It would be safest to check it out with a scope if you have one. You know. I think I have some of those diodes around. I can test it out if you don’t have a scope.

#212

Dang. I don’t have those diodes. I just tested with a 1n444 and some LEDs. All half rectified (cut negative voltage) but they dropped the positive voltage differently. The led cut more than the 1n444. You should be safe to experiment and see what works better.

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#213

thank you so much! really appreciate you taking the time

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#214

No worries! Glad to help. I did some testing with my rollz on my plumbutter 2 and I think you need to do a full rectifier. Even then you may need to amplify output. Check out these images. Red is coming from the rollz green is the output.

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here is the rectified output. Voltage is pretty low
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This is the normal output. -7V!
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#215

Holy smokes! I’m thinking about trying to use an inverting op amp out of the rollz

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#216

New Lorre Mill Paper Circuit!

Walking ring circuit is about playing a ring counter with your fingers. The “keyboard” representation wrapped around the far end of the piece is where feedback (playing) happens. The bar that follows the perimiter represents the mix that is played through to the output as well as the mix that is fed back to the counter through a window comparator and XOR gate. Each of the circles and squares are outputs from the counter and can be bridged to the bar with fingers. The symbol is for +9V and the symbol is for ground. Amp circuit is 0.5 Watts with an 8 ohm speaker. If you elect not to build the amp the symbol on the walking ring side is the line out. The pots I used are 10k but this is not a critical value. This document should be folded around the middle so the mirrored halves match up. In the middle of the folded paper is glued a piece of thicker paper, cardstock. Punch holes in the whole sandwich with a pushpin or poker. Place component leads through the holes and solder the connections shown.

11 Likes
#217

Pumped to give this a spin

#218

Could someone please explain how the touch points work on the Walking Ring and uTone, please? From an electronics point of view!
In the uTone schematic, it seems that the output gates are being fed to a resistor network which produces a weighted sum, that’s then fed into an op-amp buffer.
The touch pads are connected above the resistor from the gate, with a larger valued resistor (10k).
When you touch the touch pad, is it just that the output from the gate is pulled to ground, rather than going into the summing resistor network?
Or have I missed the point completely? :slight_smile:
Thanks.
[http://lorre-mill.com/assets/utone_right_angle.jpeg]

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#219

It’s okay I’ve figured it out myself!
Both the Walking Ring and uTone rely on using your fingers / body to form a bridge between two points in the circuit.
I’d missed the bar at the bottom of the uTone schematic that is connected to pin 3 of the CD4046. That is where the weighted sum from the resistor network is presented after it has travelled through your body.
Interesting, and it should inform my own touch synth experiments. :slight_smile:

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#220

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Walking ring built :slight_smile: lots of fun messing around with it - thanks @barrford for laying out what exactly is going on (after I took the photo I realized a key was missing and added it, it’s just a really nice photo and didn’t want to waste it)

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#221

Hi everyone! This thread and @Allieway_Audio’s overview video were really helpful when I decided to grab a used Double Knot v1 a couple of weeks ago. Hope it’s ok to share some initial exploring, cut down from about a half hour. All sounds are DK, although I brought the panning in a bit and added some reverb. Loving the instrument so far, really rewards experimenting and tweaking, tons of sweet spots.

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#222

Just picked up a Keyed Mosstone, and I love it already.

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#223

that’s lovely! Just got my Keyed Mosstone this week so intending on getting it to talk to the Double Knot for a fun musical conversation too!

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#224

and thought this might be of interest to Lorre Mill fans - a live set I made recently with Sonic State in the UK. There are sections that literally just the Double Knot with Gesture Arcade and little more. I find it such a beautifully inspiring instrument!

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#225

I just ordered a Double Knot 2 and I’m really excited. It’s my first banana synth and I was wondering what length banana cables I should buy? Will I be able to get by with just 5" and 10" cables or should I get a few longer ones as well? The person I’m buying it from is including 5 cables so I was planning on getting another 10-12 (banana cables are way pricier than euro cables!).

edit: I was going to buy the Buchla cables from Control as they seem slightly cheaper than Pomona cables available from Perfect Circuit etc.)

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#226

I think that that length selection and quantity is fine. You’d want more if you were connecting to other gear but you can worry about that later (which you will) :slight_smile:

that said, I have the OG DK, the new one is a bit longer, so maybe lean on the side of the 10" cables and maybe a few 12"? Have fun

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#227

I just heard back from the seller - they’re sending five 23" cables so I think I’ll stick with the 10" cables since the ones I’m getting will be longer. Do you think 15 is a good number of cables to get started with? I have a decent sized euro setup but I’m not trying to interconnect the two systems right now besides clocking.

#228

I think 15 is fine! Have fun

Edit: Put this on your list somewhere. Very very handy to integrate the eurorack to some extent - https://www.perfectcircuit.com/low-gain-electronics-utl-1.html

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