#285

Do you have a multimeter? check for a short between gnd and 3.3V before powering up. If you see a short, don’t attach the pi.

#286

Haha, yep, that’s how I know there’s a short! :slight_smile:

#287

Hey tehn, where can I place my interest?

#288

I’d also flip the board over and check that there are no solder bridges between the pin connectors. There are ground and 5v pins directly next to each other, the 3.3v is a couple of pins away from the closest ground on the gpio header, but I haven’t looked at the board schematics, it could be close to the ground plane.

Ah, also, make sure there is a properly flashed sd card in the pi. It will act like something is wrong if there is no disk image found on power up. Was scratching my head yesterday with this problem on another project. I’d grabbed a random sd card that I thought I’d put rasbian on and took me swapping in another to realize the pi wasn’t dead.

1 Like
#289

your soldering looks great.

i’d be a little nervous about the encoder holes you bored out. ENC1 is next to a +3v3 plane on top, and a GND plane on bottom, so that might be somewhere to look.

in the future if the PCB company doesn’t respect the milling layer, you can flush-cut the legs of the encoder and “surface mount” the sides, which works fine. (which company did you use to get your board made?)

definitely check for shorts before plugging it in, and then check voltages when you power it up. i’ve killed one pi in the past, don’t remember how— but mostly they’re pretty resilient.

@Dogma @24Franks

re: interest— i made a ton of these so no need for reservations/etc. i’ll post a link when they’re here.

5 Likes
#290

@tehn I just quickly tested (on my lunch break haha) to see if there are any shorts between the encoders legs that I bored out, and the 3V3 pin, and there doesn’t seem to be. There is a connection between the encoders actual pins and the 3V3 though - does that sound right?

The company I used were ragworm in the UK.

Do you think it’d be worth removing encoder 1 and seeing if the short disappears?

@coreyr Unfortunately I tried just booting the pi with raspbian and no dice. According to pi forums shorting the 3V3 to GND can kill them, and produces the behaviour I’m seeing :frowning: Can’t see any shorts directly between the pins either.

#291

i’d suggest downloading eagle, looking at the board files, typing SHOW GND and SHOW +3v3 into the command line so you can see where everything is, then investigate further.

also check a blank PCB (assuming you got more than one) to make sure it doesn’t have a short… ie, the board were made wrong/badly.

there’s a point where starting over starts to look like a good option sadly.

1 Like
#292

When I had a couple of Braids PCBs made back in the day, The files had slotted holes but the fab didn’t have the equipment to do them so I ended up with round ones like yours. I know OSH Park can do slots, but it may be worth checking before you order if getting them done elsewhere.

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#293

Do you have any tips for investigating further? The only thing of significance I’ve found is that the GND pin 3 to the right of the top left 3V3 GPIO pin is not shorted.

I tried measuring the resistance between different places on the GND and +3V3 circuits, but my meter doesn’t seem to be sensitive enough to see much difference.

I tried desoldering the clock in case that was shorting underneath - but the short still exists. I guess the only thing to do is to slowly desolder components until the short is gone?

Thanks a lot for everyone’s help! :slight_smile:

#294

Just grabbed the components for this using the linked (full) BOM. Just wondering though, nowhere I ordered from had C3216X5R1E476M160AC 47uF capacitors in stock; I replaced it with GRM31CR60J476ME19K which appears to be almost the same, except rated for only 6.3V as opposed to 25V. Will this be an issue? If so, I’ve got some through hole 47uF caps that I could use instead.

1 Like
#295

You’re probably fine. The RPI supply is only 5v.

#296

a bit late, but I am testing it , seems to be OK
SUPERCOLLIDER ERROR on first boot, then reboot and it’s gone

1 Like
#297

Hi,

Apart from the factor , is there any differences that Fates pcb ?
I prefer the form factor of norns shield …

Does anyone have spare pcb to sell, the oshpark are just too expensive, fates pcb are around 12€.

Thanks

#298

There are a bunch of differences: different codec, different jacks (stereo versus mono pairs), possiblity to add a fourth encoder for orac, …

1 Like
#299

*waves 190909 rev boards… have a few left.

1 Like
#300

norns shield is designed to mirror the norns hardware in order to maximize ease of maintaining compatibility with disk images. it also serves as a reference design for the electronics required by the codebase.

populated pcbs will be cheap. should arrive Monday and I’ll post pricing once confirming they work

14 Likes
#301

Hey tehn, any update on the pi4 image?

#302

For the nervous among us who intend to buy the smd-assembled boards – all we need beyond that is the through-hole BOM parts linked above, knobs/caps, a Pi 3+, and then sort our enclosure/standoffs. Yes?

Want to make sure I’ve got it straight before I start ordering. :disappointed_relieved::smile:

#303

we’re snowed in and i doubt the shipment is arriving today.

i’m planning to make a full build guide for assembly and will add links to the needed standoffs. knobs are d-shaft so basically anything that fits— i’ll link the key caps.

also— i made a lot of these, and despite being really cheap, they’re not going to sell out. so don’t worry!

3 Likes
#304

Aye, I’m snowed in not so far away too. It’ll happen when it happens!

Not worried about getting a board, just read the thread and wanted to make sure I was correct on all the other bits and pieces needed to bring this to life.