#161

I believe @sns quoted @tehn’s confirmation above :slight_smile:

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#162

Actually a small revision might happen to fix some missing resistors for the encoders, but the boards also work without those (just read the conversation a few posts above), if you really want to be on the safe side watch the GitHub repo until new files are posted :slight_smile: .

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#163

updated with minor edit for encoder pullups: https://github.com/monome/norns-shield

oshpark order link: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/RBenwhvg (updated)

working on the SMD-assembled batch and the disk image.

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#164

another couple more questions, sorry but I struggle to keep up with the topic:

  1. do grids work with this? I can see there is a mention that there is a missing FTDI converter
  2. does it have an input (Line level would be enough), my main use would be to have MLR working with guitar or Modular.

Thanks

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#165

yes, over USB just like a real Norns.

the “missing FTDI converter” is what enables you on a “real” Norns to just TTY into it over the ‘power’ USB input; it breaks out a serial terminal over USB. You still have this option, but have to use the broken-out UART pins. this is unlikely to be relevant for a lot of users, who are happy connecting over wifi.

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#166

Anyone done a 3d printable case yet ? (I’m very new to 3d printing - but I may have a go for myself if there isnt an existing design)

#167

If anyone orders some of the latest boards and wants to sell one, let me know.

#168

does the serial header (J3) go to the pi ? do I need a ribbon cable for that ?

or is that this ? I am now guessing it is this

#169

is there anything that would be a good idea to test as I’m going along ?

++ just 2 confirm are any of these capacitors diodes ? guessing no, placed all of them already

I’m confused on screens -

the BOM has the piece that mounts to the board but not the part that goes on the OLED yea ? it also seems like the screen needs more vertical space than what’s in the picture so it’s level with the top panel of the case (or are the buttons meant to stick way out, which seems odd) (can I solder another one of those headers to the oled then stack another header in-between the two ? seems like it would work with screws and spacers in place, I’m just a little confused on what the intentions are)

#170

I’d say you probably want to raise the display up a bit. Or attach it to the case, then attach the rest separately.

From pictures of monome norns, the rPi module is mounted under the display, so there must be more clearance, and there are no mounting holes for the display so it must be mounted to the case first.

#171

I usually test connections with a multimeter as I’m going when hand assembling electronics. I like to know adjacent pins on ICs aren’t bridged, grounds are grounded, power is power etc.

Basically just sanity checking, but I’ve caught things before applying power which could have cause damage in the past. Does add a little time overhead tho

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#172

the photo shows the OLED mounted directly to the PCB which i don’t recommend— i just didn’t have the headers on hand. indeed it raises it up.

i’ll dig up the other header part number and update the BOM. FYI you can use basically any 0.1" header combination— they come in various heights.

re: UART. basically nobody needs this unless you’re breaking your kernel so your HDMI doesn’t work :slight_smile:

#174

cooool - well these look like they would be about the right height to get the screen level with the buttons (the bottoms of the knob caps might live inside the case but that seems fine).

tomorrow I will work out spacers and design a case for laser cutting (!)

#175

You could also check out the headers I use over on the fates bom. I like a low profile header which gets me 6mm clearance from the main pcb (see build guide over there for the trick on that)

#176

I’m going in! This is my first Osh Park/BOM/Assembly project. I was thinking I could learn Eagle by adding a headphone jack + driver but that might be a digression from what I actually want which is a second Norns. I’m having trouble understanding what “DIY given leadless” is. I prefer leaded solider. Does this mean the headphone driver has lead in it?

I would also like to design an enclosure, which will be my first 3D printing project. I’m assuming Fusion 360 has the same license as Eagle for “non commercial use”? Autodesk marketing is difficult to parse.

#177

I believe that this referring to how the headphone amp itself is packaged (the physical IC). I’m guessing that the part doesn’t have “leads” or “legs” which extend out to the side of the package which makes it difficult/impossible to hand solder.

#178

well the problem is that these switches are tall and I need the OLED and buttons to be at the same top panel height, so I’m trying to raise the screen and panel

I already have a bag but maybe I’d be better off going back and using the buttons and headers you’re using for fates. not sure why these switches were chosen (better stock ?)

idk either way to do it seems fine I guess

#179

First time around is always hard to figure out all the various heights.

Not sure you’d be able to swap to a different switch mechanism without re-doing the pcb. pin-out may be different. I used a pretty spendy switch mechanism (MEC 5G switches). The ones here are only like $0.75 each so probably a cost related decision (keeping the part cost low)

#180

kk I assumed they were the same for some reason - I think I’ll stick with these

I will be various heights of things guinea pig :^)

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#181

Haha, derp. That makes more sense. I think it’s called QNF or something like that?