#21

not if you use threaded strips :stuck_out_tongue: eurorack is not a format for consistency or standards lmao

#22

image
image3024×4032 1.46 MB

oh & i’ve got a few more of these boyz laying around. they are ugly, bc i had to drill out wrong sized holes, but i can put them in envelopes for folks as time allows

3 Likes
#23

a smooth board on the bottom side with tight pressure will fix that blowout. if i’m feeling it, I also will use blue painters tape pressed on firmly with a board behind too. sharp bit, fast speed, slow downward drilling

3 Likes
#24

Euro is usally 2.5 or 3, 3 is much more common and I guess more standard.The only brand that I am aware of that put 2.5 and 3 in the boxes of their modules is Verbos. Let’s not talk about Euro and consistency. :stuck_out_tongue:

1 Like
#25

Hmmm it’s behaving in an odd way that I wonder if anyone can help me diagnose…

“controller 102”, or knob 1, is sending about a dozen messages a second. Turned down to zero it jitters between values of “10” and “40”. If i turn up the knob it will jitter around a wider area, including higher values… If i turn other knobs I will see messages come through from them but quickly overtaken by messages from controller 102…

(tried using it in reaper, but then downloaded a “midi monitor” to see what messages my computer is getting—midi monitor confirmed this behavior, which is how it seemed in reaper too)

I’m not a master solderer, but I think I did okay, don’t see any obvious bridges or mess ups around knob 1… the only thing a bit messy was the smd bit, but I got it securely on there in the end… any ideas or things I should check?

#26

gah i don’t have that much time to be reasonably helpful but maybe try messing with the firmware ? like commenting out that knob code to see if others function normally, etc. there was a feature in that firmware that sent messages repeatedly - i think i deleted it but i could’ve forgotten to in the repo or goofed on it somehow. value jitters smells like a hardware problem but, yea it’s pretty easy not to mess up this build, idk

1 Like
#27

no dice—no matter how i mess with the settings it’s always that knob going off which definitely makes it seem even more like a hardware problem… I guess I’ll try reflowing the potentiometers before i try removing the teensy :skull:

#28

definitely worth trying reflowing the smd (and the rest of the components while you’re at it), it can be the magic fix. that ended up being a fix to a module I had went though visibly and even with the multimeter to check continuity and everything looked right.

1 Like
#29

I think I had similar problems when I did my veroboard version. Using 100k pots Instead of 10k seemed to be the issue for me.

1 Like
#30

I ve had the same problems with my teensy controller.
Found some code on the web that might be usefull (or not) worth giving it a go
Here (shameless promotion):
look inside the ino file:

1 Like
#31

your code (adjusted for 7 knobs) appears to have fixed it! there’s still a bit of weirdness with pot 1 where it’s sending bank select data as well as 102, but it’s not a constant stream of data and in practice i can use 102 data still. Might reflow some of the solder today just to be sure but this has made it workable, which is a relief—thank you !!

just comparing the code have no idea what made the difference ! computers! how do they work!

1 Like
DIY: norns shield
#32

Glad to be of help! Yes that might be contact problem, check ground is going into the problematic pot.
The code is not mine :slight_smile: But it works!
Go enjoy it!

1 Like
#33

Finally got my boards from OSH Park last week and built a bleached yesterday - super cool! Thank you for sharing, @andrew!

IMG_2376
IMG_2376640×640 661 KB

5 Likes
#34

I modded the firmware to have two sets of 6 CC’s! It uses the first knob to select which set, and uses the teensy’s led as an indicator. LED off is cc’s 103-108, on is 109-114.

IMG_0681

13 Likes
#36

Congrats @Justmat !

Would you carevto share your code?

I would really like doing this eith my 17n!

Thanks s bunch :slight_smile:

1 Like
#37

I def will! I need to clean it up, I’ve never used c++ before so I am sure it’s really sloppy code lol

3 Likes
#38

I’m using 6 knobs to control the filters on Otis, if I could have 12 knobs who knows what I’d do!

1 Like
#39

After a week with bleached, I’m in love with it. Sure, I have other boxes that do the same (and more), but they take up half my table space. bleached is barely there, it’s like an expander for Norns, and that makes it trivial to map params wherever I am sitting - which means now I’m actually taking advantage of that.
(it’s also wooden and I’m a bit proud I put it together)

Thank you, @andrew and @tehn

3 Likes
#43

@pfig @thopa, here is my code! Just flash it the same way you did the original firmware.

it seems like it would be trivial to add some extra LEDs and “zones” to first knob allowing for many more CCs, if one were so inclined :grin:

4 Likes
#44

Has anyone had any troubles using bleached with Ableton? I don’t have Live myself, so I can’t really test, but I am getting a report of frequent disconnects that require an un-plug/re-plug of the device to return it to use.