Like this?
4 star = dark blue
3 star = light blue
2 star = purple
1 star = highlighter yellow

Touch points = highlighter green (except for the middle which are part of the mixer lol)

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I think that’s right…it’s been a while since I had this all straight in my head at once.:crazy_face:

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“Internal wiring” complete.
Now for 16 touch nodes, 4 buttons, output, and piezos.

Still waiting on my 4051 IC’s.
I thought they were here but it was the big 35mm piezos. lol

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That “internal wiring” is wild!
I think I might a board revision with some of this routed on the top layer, like I did for the MIDO.
Good work, I’m looking forward to the sights and sounds of the finished article.

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1 barre down… 3 to go -_- lol


I decided to try making them similar to SHNTH barres.

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lol…

well - wired this way - the central mixer just gets hot and there is no output with a piezo wired either way -
Time to investigate…

*** EDIT *** Ignore me - I had the center Mixer IC in backwards.
However - wired this way - there seems to be no gate.

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Sorry, that stinks.
It might be take a few days but I should have some time to look at the whole thing again soon.

I think I found an error in the piezo areas: the piezo center (foil) needs to be connected to pins 3&5 of the 082s. In the paper circuit, those top traces cross but aren’t connected there either, which I think is why they got separated in the conversion.

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lol - that almost blew up my amp :smiley: lmfao

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On the plus side!!!

Helps when you dont have the center IC in backwards… lol

So - it seems like it is always “on”

It is UNGODLY quiet and MUST be plugged into an amp - preferably with a preamp. lol.

The glitch points glitch the hell out of it - no vid on that yet - piezo seems to not do much - but I tried jumping it like mention above and it almost blew up my amp - however - i had the preamp boosting the ever living fuck out of it lmao. - so partially my fault -
I may play around more with what you mentioned tho -
Not sure how else to wire it - seems like there is no VCA action other than with the scroll buttons - but thats on off lol.

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Whoa this makes me want to have a terrazzi with a Low-pass gate. Guess I’m gonna patch a tetrax to the Voltage Research Lab

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Ok, I’ve started soldering my own build (thanks again for the board @crucFX!) and digging back into all my notes here and references noted above since my original suggestion for writing up the cross nodes seems not to be correct. I reread this bit from Richard Brewster’s page on making his Tetrazzi modular:
Quote:Shown above is Peter B’s schematic for one of the four Tetrazzi oscillators. It is an ingenious design for a voltage-controlled sawtooth/ramp oscillator, where the up and down rates are separately voltage controlled. Not only are the rates under VC, each VCO has two modulation inputs, one for up (UPMOD) and one for down (DONMOD), that are hard-wired internally to come from the other VCOS. The internal patch looks like this:

UPMOD cross connections: [1 -> 4; 4 -> 3; 3 -> 2; 2 -> 1]
DONMOD cross connections: [4 -> 1; 4 -> 2; 2 -> 3; 2 -> 4] Unquote.

This lead me to consider that there are two nets of cross modulation not just one. (I am making the assumption that the numbers here refer to quadrants and not the cross number.) In the schematic above, the DONMOD pot is on the left and it’s modulation point is 1 Star. The UPMOD pot is on the right and it’s modulation point is 2 Star. Within each quadrant the are 2 similar crosses and these have to be connected together to match the schematic. This is the “3 star” and “channel out” area I marked just above the piezo in the schematic. As noted before, I based the schematic off of the bottom left quadrant. Let’s call this quadrant #4. Above it is #1 and clockwise to #2 and then #3. If you connect those two 3 stars together and then to the 3 star in #3 it begins to follow the UPMOD pattern. Here’s all four color coded:


The UPMOD bit makes sense to me and kind of what I thought the whole scene was, but the DONMOD isn’t circular as Richard describes it. What you do get if you connect the remaining similar crosses is another circular pattern like so:

I’m still not sure if this is right but it’s closer to what Richard described.

One more detail is that until now I didn’t realize that quadrants #1&#3 use different input pins to the 4051 than quadrants #2&#4. I think this another way to add chaos to the interweaving of the oscillators.

EDIT: I just read this again and I realize it’s not as clear as it could be (like all my posts in this thread. :upside_down_face:) I’ll look at all this again tomorrow and see if I can make it more plain.

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I believe Quadrant 1 is the Right Top Quadrant (indicated by having 2 Single Star nodes), Quadrant 2 the top Left Quadrant (indicated by having 2 Double Star Nodes) etc.

^ this is just my theory because Peter loves to do shit counter-clockwise.

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All that being said tho - I gotta lotta wires to move around hahaha.

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Actually, not a lot maybe…
I think if you just remove one wire from each cross grouping it will separate the UPMOD from the DONMOD.
Give me a minute to check and I’ll add a diagram.

If you wired them in a series before (hard to tell from the pictures) you should just have to remove the purple wires to separate the two:

Here it is with the correct quadrant numbers:

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I will try this out in a bit and let you know!!

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lol - clipped all the suggested clips and now i get no sound lol
im gonna pull all of the “internal wiring” and start fresh

But do the piezos work now?

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no - get nothing at all

:thinking:

I’m fresh out of ideas…I’m gonna have to take a break from this for a while until I get my own board populated and can do my own hands on testing. Good luck and keep us updated on your experiments good and bad.

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I DO think you’re onto something though with the wiring -
Think it would be worth shooting a board over to Pugix?
He commented on my Youtube video " wow you made a board of the paper circuit"
I explained to him in the comment that a fellow DIY’er in the Lines forum made this and we’re all trying to figure out the wiring lol.