#49

Should these cable work as connectors between Teletype and Just Friends?


Thank you for your help!

#50

Yesterday I fried a case’s power supply and a powered TT i2c backpack trying to set up a small system with TT i2c’d to JF and W/.

I’m fairly sure it fried because the TT backpack’s pins made contact with something inside of the case, but just to rule out all possibilities could it have been some problem with the i2c cables I had used?

the cables

#51

those cables look totally fine.

shorting the pins on the backpack is definitely a problem. The SCL and SDA pins are 3.3v so it those touch ground that’s not good.

Best bet might be to pull everything from the case and check the voltages on the power supply. Then check if there are replaceable fuses or anything like that (Not too familiar with PSU designs).

1 Like
#52

Thanks for the reply.

Hearing that makes me feel a lot less scared to attempt this again.
I’m in contact with the case maker and am trying to see if it’s salvageable… At least none of the module’s seem to be damaged so feeling grateful for that.

#53

FYI - I use 7/16 or 1/2 inch shrink tubing around the 1x3 connectors on F-F jumper wires.

#54

I got the sparkfun ribbon cable/crimp connectors, but am having some trouble.
With a bit of force I got the connector to clamp on, but I’m not 100% sure it’s actually making contact - do I need to strip the wires before I attach the connector?

If anyone has any ideas on debugging or verifying connectivity, that’d help a ton
I’m running the norns/crow/jf study and not getting any effect - JF is just droning away in regular oscillator mode.

#55

You shouldn’t need to strip the wires ahead of time. I personally just loosen the header a bit, feed the wire through the header, and then give the whole assembly a medium force tap with a hammer (no special tools required).

If you are still having problems after that I recommend double checking that the ground pin on each device is lined up with the same color on the ribbon.

1 Like
#57

hello
i am hopeful someone can share if these work


sorry for double post

A user's guide to i2c
#58

pls just get these

2 Likes
#59

I2C for connection in the monome ecosystem is only 3pin. The Arduino 4pin you listed would technically work, it looks like the pitch is the same but they’d just have a unused pin slot.

I’d recommend the second link, the EDGELEC pieces. That’s what I use, and you can break them off in chunks of 3!

2 Likes
#60

or these

#61

So I am having a bit of trouble with this.
I am trying to attach the Teletype with the ER-301.

I purchased the 6 pin spark fun i2c 6 wire ribbon cable and the 6 pin 2x3 ribbon crimp connector.

This said I have the Teletype + Expander Board. The problem is the ER 301 is only 3 pins while the Ribbon Crimp Connector - 6-pin (2x3, Female).

Please see ER-301 HERE
http://wiki.orthogonaldevices.com/index.php/ER-301/Revisions

So do I just attach the top 3 line to the ER-301 and all 6-pin (2x3, Female to the Teletype + Expander Board? I dont want to beak anything.

#62

yes, this should work fine; each group of two pins from Teletype carries the exact same signal. The important thing is to match the 3 different signals (SDA, SCL, Ground) on each device.

#63

I ordered a selection of candidates from Sparkfun, most of which are already mentioned above - included here for completeness. (followup to my question at A user's guide to i2c )

  • 2x3 IDC connectors + ribbon cable

    • minimum height required above board: 0.545" (same as a Eurorack power cable)
    • 28AWG wires (0.036" thick with insulation)
    • consistent color code (“red stripe down”)

  • 40-pin jumper wire, split

    • minimum height required above board: housing 0.64", plus about 0.2" for the wire to bend
    • same 28AWG wires as above
    • grab-bag of colors when split

  • single jumper wire, F-F

    • same single-wire housing as the 40-pin
    • available in “regular” 26AWG and “premium” 20AWG (not that that should ever be relevant)

  • 3-pin Dupont connector jumpers (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10373)

    • three-pin version of the single-wire housing
    • intermediate thickness - 26AWG, 0.05" with insulation
    • consistently color-coded
    • harder to mis-connect

I could see all the variants being useful:

  • the IDC connector approach would be useful in shallower cases since the wires don’t need to make a 90-degree turn after exiting the connector. Also useful if very specific lengths are needed.

  • the single-wire (or split-bundle) jumpers would be useful when interconnecting modules that disagree about what order I2C signals should appear on the header

  • the three-wire jumpers are useful if you don’t need the flexibility of single wires and don’t want to debug that flexibility when connecting things. Sparkfun also has them in 12" lengths.

I also looked at making my own cables with Amphenol Mini-PV connectors (the variety used by both the 1-wire and 3-wire jumpers), but the official crimp tool for installing the pins is $1400+ :scream:

1 Like
A user's guide to i2c
#64

I’m also trying to buy a cable for connecting my Disting ex with a Sweet sixteen, but can’t find it anywhere. Do any of you know a good site where I can purchase a cable?

I2c cable purchase advice
#65

The cables you would need to connect those two devices are extremely generic and have been linked to many places above. Here is one option, with many lengths to choose from: https://www.adafruit.com/category/468

You would simply peel off 3 wires to use to make the connections.

#66

Thanks :wink: So simple wow

#67

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My happiness it’s been so short today,
Amazon sent me a wrong item, I ordered female/female (as the invoice they sent me says…)
So the question is, before returning the item, it’s easy or even possible to mod these cables to female?

#68

Not really, The plastics and inner parts of the crimped wire connectors are all very different on the F/F version.

You’d need replacement housings and these things

1 Like
#69

Thanks, like I thought…

After i found this at home, which is the daisy chaining cable for my Hyrlo stereo mixer from Knob Farm, but seems it causes issues (I’ve tried it with Crow&Just Friends with Max for Live ^^ device “JF Synth“) Just Friends freezes very soon after sending it some midi notes from Ableton through Crow…
Maybe it’s too long? , it’s 35cm long.

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