#21

What if a cable like this but replace the female head to 3 x 2 pins, would it work?

EDIT:

Brian had mentioned that it would work. Now I need to do one for myself.

#22

this is what I made for my i2c modules! it was easier than I expected

1 Like
#23

Okay what is the secret magic you are using to easily make that
 I find putting female headers on ribbon cables absolutely maddening
 I just use breadboard jumpers instead (which is very easy and cheaper!).

1 Like
#24

I use one of these:

4 Likes
#25

Would these work?

#26

yes, and those are actually super cheap

though 40cm is super long, might want shorter

2 Likes
#27

awesome thanks! I wanted longer ones than the 6’’ ones that I’ve seen linked elsewhere, so that I can space my modules around the case without having to worry about it, but yeah 40cm is almost certainly TOO long. Is it a pretty straightforward thing to remove the plastic clamp and cut the cables in half, then put the clamp back on?

#28

the plastic clamp miiiiight be designed to be permanently attached? the clamps for my DIY I2C cable certainly don’t look very amenable to alteration. that said, if you bought extra clamps one could definitely just attach them (even midway along the length) and then trim the excess.

#29

I have these 300mm ones in my shopping basket. I know “will these fry my modules?” gets thrown around loosely. But this would be safe starting point for my TT/JF connection? I have the backpack!

This is before I actually go ahead and fry my er-301 with the i2c mod. :smile:

#30

these should be fine (I think people may have even mentioned using these exact jumper wires on another thread)—even misconnecting the i2c on mine so far has only caused Teletype to freeze, not fry (not that I’m recommending being blasĂ© about it)—just be careful and double-check that you’ve made the correct connections.

1 Like
#31

I also use very similar jumper wires. I just peel them off 3 at a time to make the connections. The colors don’t matter, just make sure you’re matching like colors on both sides.

3 Likes
#32

Cables arrived! After the kids claimed their tithe for making bracelets these remain.

I have TT (with backpack), JF, 301 (to be modded), Grids, Arc, Ansible (thinking of polyearthsea?). How do these connect?

I leave you with a ”hey the DJ mixer isn’t even plugged in!?” styled picture for you to critique.

image
FCC1688F-399C-4018-B0E3-A40AFA6A9C7E.jpeg3024×4032 3.71 MB

:partying_face:

1 Like
#33

Does anyone know how on earth you easily separate the connectors?

#34

they should peel apart kinda like some kinds of licorice

2 Likes
#35

i mean these - if anyone has the clue how to prise them apart? feeling v stupid not figuring it out ! https://coolcomponents.co.uk/products/ribbon-crimp-connector-6-pin-2x3-female

#36

Hey all. I’m a newbie. Just pre-ordered the Teletype.
Is this the cable I’m looking for to connect to my Just Friend and future ANSIBLE module?

https://www.ebay.com/i/183509153380?chn=ps

Also do the ANSIBLE come with the 3pin on the back already? Or do I have to solder them like the older trilogy units?

Thanks!

#37

Ansible has the 3x2 i2c header already populated.

there are a variety of cables listed in this thread that will work.

#38

typically they shouldn’t arrive already clamped down— it’s a pain to open them up again. you’ll need to push one side up over the latch, then the other, trying to get both up and over without breaking either or having the other re-latch. it takes practice and you’ll likely break several trying.

#39

should have posted earlier, but I received these and they actually are not that long, just right for my purposes, and they work just fine! i used a sharpie to do a make shift marker equivalent to the red line so that I line things up correctly when plugged in.

3 Likes
#40

thanks for the update! I’ll be grabbing these. good call on the sharpie.

Cheers.