wow. just wow. I love the different color palettes. No matter what I select on boot is just looks and works beautifully.

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@Gerald_Stevens Thank you for doing this, it works great! A “four corner button” palette selection feature would be awesome.

I made a bamboo version. Still a few things to tidy up but I really like this material and the final form. I will make a matching DIY norns soon.
@okyeron’s construction images were really useful for me so I’ve added some from my build here too. In the end I desoldered the reset button and the micro USB connector from the teensy, as the internal space was tight.






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@Lemmy that is some fantastic work!

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Love it! Super nice.

My flexi teensy board adapter is ordered and due in a week or two. That could help with eliminating wiring “thickness”

I like the idea of removing the usb and button from the teensy. I’ve got a couple with broken usb jacks so those are likely to get used. :slight_smile:

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This is astoundingly good looking! What was your process for cutting the bamboo?

This is a clever building material since it’s strong and fast growing! Depending on your method and pricing I might take this up instead of Acrylic as my future material of choice (specially if I choose to build that early 20’s dream of the 256 for no good reason what-so-ever)

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Which material is this as well? Solid? Mdf core?

Thanks! Exactly, it’s very sustainable. I used a laser cutter and 3mm bamboo sheets. After glueing the layers I sanded the outside edges as they were darker from the laser cutting. Each sheet is very light but when glued together it’s really solid. As you can see from the pics I made it in two sections which screw together so that I could open it up and access the teensy if necessary. I would consider making it solid next time, all layers glued.
I will do more tests when making the Norns enclosure.

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Laser-friendly bamboo sheets.

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Given your experience with it, what is the feasibility of doing something like 1u panels with it. I’m guessing that’s a pretty low chance, given the kind of pressure the material gets put under, but it’s worth a shot.

Should be doable. Generally you can the same laser things with bamboo or birch as people do with acrylic. 1/16in (1.5mm) might be be worth investigating for modular panels rather than 3mm, but it may depend on size, rigidity

How do you program the teensy without the button?

Yeah, I’m figuring 1u is the safest bet, 3U gets in to some potentially sticky territory, unless the PCB has good support underneath with the ports, standoffs and such.

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Black magic. :laughing:

(Haven’t tried - I don’t need the button to program most of the time)

I updated my “paletted neotrellis grid” code on github so that you have an intensity selector on the leftmost column, and pressing the lower right three buttons gets you back to color selection. This makes it easier to select a brightness that doesn’t cause the Fates red-LED to go out (too much current). If you overdo it with brightness, it will even reboot. Powered by itself, with a USB hub (not through Fates), it doesn’t seem to get upset about too much current.

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I’ve not had a chance to look at the previous code too much, but was concerned about setting overall brightness low and then high values in the gamma table.

If I understand it correctly you’ll get better brightness variation the other way round ) scaling values in gamma later vs chopping bits off overall brightness first)

In practice maybe it doesn’t matter.

Yeah - I’m not sure how the adafruit stuff deals with the brightness parameter, so I chose to just max it out, and make a linear gamma table with adjustable slope (and a fixed minimum so you don’t lose the darkest pixels). Seems to work. Have to be careful to do your math with floats then make the result 8 bits… otherwise things get weird.

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I’ve had some success using the NeoPIXEL (vs. NeoTRELLIS) sources (curiously, the code from the *pixel hasn’t been ported to the *trellis) they include gamma8, gamma32, and HSV functions, and a nice gamma table to play with.

AFAICT, the BRIGHTNESS value in ‘neotrellis_monome_teensy.ino’ is an automagical hardware brightness knob which is set until power is cycled (got this from some Adafruit docs somewhere; don’t have a handy reference)

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I would say it’s not a good idea. It’s very likely to split at the screw holes. I’ve made blank panels from 3mm ply and they’re fine, though you need longer screws, as most alu panels are 2mm.

Would this apply even for a small 1U tile? I just need something to hold two 1/4in TRS ports in my intellijel 1U row.

Small edit, meant 1/4 TRS jacks.