#444

thought i’d post one of my first attempts at using the neotrellis grid with the Fugu script. Works great, feels very solid. love the case (from denki oto). @okyeron was way more helpful than he needed to be so i wanted to mention that and officially say thank you for putting up with my questions. big time tech support and personal hero

got it sending midi to the 4 digitone voices here:

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#445

Thanks. Flashed a new card and got it working, at least I think I did.

At the last step of flashing the code to the teensy. I am using this teensy code which i think is correct.

I get an error when verifying the code. I think its because I need to include some libraries, but that’s about where it starts falling apart for me. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

#446

I just pushed a couple of hexes for testing and for the default layout. if you want to try those.

(for neotrellis_monome_teensy and multitrellis_test.hex )

#447

IMG_6926
IMG_69263024×4032 2.1 MB

I printed the bottom of my case last night, and found a few things to fix. The teensy cradle seems to work, but is just a tiny bit too narrow. Also I forgot to account for the solder joints between the boards, leading to the PCB not laying flat. I also flipped the usb header so it’s the right way round.
New models uploading to github now.

Top printing right now.

4 Likes
#448

The top turned out pretty great!

IMG_6962
IMG_69623024×4032 2.65 MB

IMG_6961
IMG_69613024×4032 2.26 MB

And together this looks amazing (I’m sorry this is the first thing I designed and printed myself).

IMG_6964
IMG_69643024×4032 2.2 MB

Reprinting the bottom right now.

7 Likes
#449

Interesting design, are you planning to cut the silicon pads where your mounting posts are?

#450

There are already holes there. I made everything M2, so hopefully it’ll work like that.

1 Like
#451

I’m curious to see how light bleed thru ends up on your design.

I like having an opaque material between the buttons to reduce bleed between the adjacent buttons.

1 Like
#452

Ah I see now. Unless I’m wrong you might not have much pressure sandwiching down the pads to the PCB below with this design (since it is only the edges of the pads that get held down). Curious to see how it works. My design is quite different, so neat to see another perspective on it…

#453

Ah I see what you mean. Well it’s pretty easy to add some ridges to the top part but it’s an interesting learning experience already. Which would also solve the light bleeding through.

1 Like
#454

If it is a problem, I’d fill in all the “air gaps” with plastic. That’ll help sandwich the board down and prevent light bleed.

#455

Thank you so much for the help. Grid is up and running!

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#456

Dammit I broke something. The grid doesn’t light up anymore, and I don’t know what happened. Anyway, back to debugging.

The neotrellis boards don’t light up anymore, but the teensy is still recognized by both Norns shield and computer.

I’m a little afraid the neotrellis boards died, they are totally unresponsive. Hopefully I just mucked up the teensy.

#457

I’d check the power to the neotrellis boards and then the i2c connection.

#458

Built this beautiful beast recently (neotrellis_monome_teensy):

20200603_202552793_iOS
20200603_202552793_iOS4032×3024 1.17 MB
.

It easily looks & feels like the best of all my DIY stuff - awesome. It was a very well documented build, and the addition of the Ponoko enclosure templates was a huge help.

The only change is that I used a mini-USB breakout instead of the micro breakout. Flashing went fine, multitrellis-test runs fine - yay, seems I got the hardware working.

My last monome grid-type thing were dual 40h (using monomeserial, so everything was configured manually), so I feel quite stupid for asking this. But I can’t for the life of me get it to show up in any Max patches, e.g. Monome Home (Max 8, Windows 10 64bit, if that makes a difference).

I found quite old comments that seemed to describe a similar issue, but they seemed to refer to an out-of-date version of serialosc? Using the most recent serialosc-1.4.1a on a rather fresh install.

Any pointers would be very much appreciated!

2 Likes
#459

Hmmmm… I don’t have any experience with serialosc on Windows and not sure what to suggest. It works as expected on MacOS with some occasional prodding (there’s a launchctl unload /Library/LaunchAgents/org.monome.serialosc.plist that is needed to block/un-block or load/unload the serial port. Not sure if there’s some similar kung-fu needed on windows)

Did the mini jack work OK with the cutouts (since it’s a touch larger)? I thought I left enough room there and have a jack, but never actually tested it in place :stuck_out_tongue:

#460

Did you see this post above?

Specifically Trouble Setting up Monome (although its a few years old?)

@ground_state did you go through all that in your testing?

This seems old. I thought it was 1.4.2 everywhere now? Lemme search for the win version - see Arc2 and 128 Connectivity Issues on Windows ??

#461

I tried all the things. The only way I get any joy under Windows is using the Node serialosc thingy, which works flawlessly.

1 Like
#462

Any chance you sldprt files for these? I printed out the stl’s but would like to modify it a bit. I can import the stl but figured I’d ask if you had any other files for it. Also I am all for collaboration to get it to a good state. Solidworks is a large part of my day job and have access to a 3D printer with a large enough bed to print in one piece.

Overall the button spacing seemed good. I think the material inbetween the buttons to prevent bleeding is the right way to go. I was going to look into mounting the pcb’s to the base as I think it would make for a more stable user experience as opposed to the top.

#463

So i guess the big question is “what’s different about the node setup that’s not working normally”?