#809

FWIW - this is incorrect. “mk” (aka monome kit) devices send “mk” at the start of the ID. They are not varibright, so vari mode is disabled for that type. See here for editions. Newer varibright grids i believe simply send “monome” as the ID. “Original” grids would be the 40h and those use a different connection function. Series came after and then the mext devices.

#810

You are probably right, I just had in mind zebra’s comment above who said “as far as i know, it [the stock grid firmware] has not changed since the mk kit”, but the IDs can well have changed. In any case, what I wanted to say is that the content of the ID does not really matter to the TT, besides for disabling varbright for “mk” devices.

#811

Hello, lovely lines community!

I built a Norns Shield and Neotrellis Grid a few months ago.
I’m so amazed by everything that comes out of these!

I just had an issue after updating this morning.
My grid doesn’t appear anymore.
I tried reverting to the previous version following @dan_derks instructions, but still, it doesn’t show.
Reboots and resets don’t do much either.
Is there something I might have missed?
Probably, haha!
I use the paletted firmware on the grids but I don’t think that’s the issue.
Same issue with the grayscale firmware. (Teensy 3.2)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Norns: update 201023 / 201029
Norns: alternative grids
#812

moved this post as we don’t have any of these neotrellis things to test with— hopefully the other builders can offer some advice? @okyeron

2 Likes
#813

It seems this thread has moved mostly into technical discussion, but just wondering—could someone who has built a DIY Norns Shield build one of these safely? Don’t have a 3D printer or cutter so I’d need to contract that out, but from reading the Github, nothing seems too complicated on the hardware side.

#814

You need to re-patch and compile norns firmware after each upgrade.
Instructions: https://github.com/okyeron/neotrellis-monome#norns-shield

Did you do it?

1 Like
#815

hey hey…

The neotrellis grid needs a hack/fix/workaround to make it work with norns shield. This needs to be reapplied after any norns system update.

Details on the neotrellis github readme here: https://github.com/okyeron/neotrellis-monome#norns-shield

This has changed slightly with the most recent norns update. I’ve just updated the device file and the instructions.

You will want to have maiden open when you connect the grid. If you get connection errors like error: couldn't open monome device at /dev/ttyACM0, try leaving the grid connected and SLEEP/restart your shield. Then add the grid in DEVICES if needed.

NOTE - if you had already updated to 201029 and ran the patch prior to today, you may want to run the patch instructions once more to get the most recent updated version of the device_monitor file.

EDIT 2: Seems like I’m getting persistent connection errors on re-plugging and I’ll need to do some more debugging when I have time, but unfortunately that may take a couple days. (may also be related to dev version of firmware I’m running)

1 Like
#816

Apologies for the recent technical discussion. Build questions are totally welcome here.

Github should have all the information you need to build one. If not, please let me know and I’ll try to fill in the gaps.

#817

Of course…

Re-ran the update, patched and everything is perfectly fine :slight_smile:
Totally forgot about that step.

Thanks, @eigen and @okyeron !

I owe you guys a beer.

#818

@okyeron I went ahead and ordered everything, so I’ll let you know what should be added to the build guide/github. May even take some in progress pics myself if thag would be useful.

For now, I can confirm one thing that is missing—non diy people (people who only bought a Norns shield as their first diy project, for example) likely don’t have a bunch of 5 pin headers lying around, so it might be worthwhile to add those to the part list! I also had to remember to order wire!

3 Likes
#819

Me too! After almost a whole year of lurking this thread I just pulled the trigger on some parts. Super excited to put this together.

#820

I can confirm it’s a pretty easy build, just make sure you test the boards!
I soldered everything without testing because I couldn’t get my hands on one of those 5 pin cables…
Had one dead pixel on a board and de-soldering was a PITA especially if you use 5 pin headers :sob:
Mouser sent me a replacement board no questions asked tho.
I don’t know the reference for these cables, but it sure would be nice to add one to the BOM.

#821

Adafruit STEMMA/JST-PH 4-pin cable

I just added it to the github readme

1 Like
#822

Definitely check the boards!

I made my grid, and 3 out of 8 boards weren’t working and were causing issues. I spent a long time thinking I was doing something really dumb, only to later on (after I had disassembled the grid and started testing each one by one) that they were just defective.

Got it contact with digikey, explained that I tested all 8 boards, and 3 of them didn’t respond, they sent me 3 new boards that did work.

#823

Ok, I guess I was kinda lucky then!
I think I remember reading that someone had DOA boards :thinking:

#824

AFAIR in the end I had 3 boards with issues from Mouser - one of them had a dead color channel on single LED (green channel didn’t work), one or two were completely blank (probably the first LED in the chain dead so others won’t work either).

I had already soldered some loose wires to the SMT pads for testing and my local’ish reseller of Neopixels warns on their site that the LED elements are particularly sensitive to static electricity. So I couldn’t be 100% certain if it was me who zapped them before first use due to careless handling, or if they were broken right from the package.

In any case, ended up ordering new ones from another place at extra cost, and now all Neopixels work fine.

All in all it’s a super easy build (disclaimer: I’m probably close to professional level at shoddy soldering after 15+ years) the case part turned out to be the difficult one, as I decided on an aluminum front plate and a wooden milled case. The milling of wood part is still waiting for some extra free time to appear…

#825

I had tried sending 64 bytes before - it didn’t help. OK - more info, not sure if it will help. Here is what the norns shield receives from the trellis on waking up well:

00 01 21 04 f1 c0 e7 c7 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00   ..!.ñÀçÇ........ 
00 00 00 00 00 00 e6 e7 86 00 00 00 00 00 00 00   ......æç†....... 
00 00 00 00 00 00 01 02 e6 e7 86 00 00 00 00 00   ........æç†..... 
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 c0 e7 c7 04 00 00 00 00   ........ÀçÇ..... 
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 40                     ........ @

Nothing like the TT - thought that might be by design.

1 Like
#826

@okyeron built this today! A bit more difficult than the Norns shield, but not too bad. The usb breakout seems like it will be hard! Trying to figure out a local person with a 3D printer to help out with the case, but all in all this was a super straightforward job. If anyone on here can help me out, let me know!

One thing I’d recommend adding to the GH (can add a PR) is to remind people to install the Teensyduino extension. I didn’t know about that and lost a bit of time.

1 Like
#827

I don’t know why people don’t just use the Teensy 4 (which is the same price), and forgo the usb breakout board? I’m not sure if anyone tested the Teensy 4, actually, but the teensy 3.6 has the fuse in the same location as the 4, and it does not require a breakout board for power.

1 Like
#828

FWIW - Using the breakout board offers a cheap replacement of the usb socket in case of breakage. Can also use USB mini or usb-c breakouts if you want.

Large number of complaints about people snapping the usb-micro jack off the teensy on other projects (16n for example) so this seemed like a good/cheap solution to me

It’s DIY afterall. Do what works best for you

3 Likes