#869

thanks so much for your input @kbra and @atlas. i’m glad i’m not the only one with this issue.

actually the issue is a little weirder than i thought. you can see in that video that a whole row of lights are activated when pressing a single key. if it was just the elastomer not sitting right i thought it might activate them more randomly than that.

…so i did a little test and lifted the elastomer pads off half of the lights. when pressing a key with the pad (on the other half) sometimes it will still activate an entire row, even though there is no pad. here’s a photo where you can see the corner led is lit up, as if activated, even though no pad is touching it (and i’m pressing only a single other key).

original_22c9a5ea-6635-474d-b84d-f0dfeb4e80dd_PXL_20201229_221829364
original_22c9a5ea-6635-474d-b84d-f0dfeb4e80dd_PXL_20201229_2218293641451×1944 287 KB

i’m not really familiar with how these particular boards work and would be interested if you have any other thoughts on this behavior - maybe its a board issue?

#870

it could be a board issue.

you could try testing each pad on the pcb with a piece of wire - try to bridge each specific pad and see if you get the same behavior.

Could also check the backside for a missing diode or perhaps one that’s not soldered properly.

Adafruit’s pretty good about replacing funky boards if it is in fact funky

2 Likes
#871

I’ve had some downtime for the holidays and I am super grateful for it but it’s back to the grind come Monday. Figured it’d be the last time for a bit where I had a moment and I wanted to share my failure and success so for with my build. I bought an FTDI adapter cable, cracked it open, and fished out the board inside. Butchered the board into place, attached it to the breakout, teensy connected in there, wedged it all together, and it worked. I have to reset norns after plugging it in or boot with it plugged into norns but it does work. Tried with my diy teletype and I don’t think the teensy/neotrellis is booting up fast enough to do things correctly. I did get it to jive with teletype but that was powering the grid separately from teletype. I suppose I should also throw out that it wasn’t jiving with teletype after I had recompiled the tt firmware to work at the higher baud rate. I have not tried my build running the code @ 57whateverbaud, maybe I’ll give it a whirl when I disassemble again but I’ve got my doubts plus it is running fine for the time being. I think I’ll undo the FTDI board down the line, maybe leave two wires dangling out for an FTDI board, but it was a fun experiment either way.

**Note: Pictures are just here to show off failure, wouldn’t recommend replicating.

2020-12-07 13.48.18
2020-12-07 13.48.183024×4032 2.2 MB
2021-01-01 09.55.27
2021-01-01 09.55.273024×4032 2.03 MB

2 Likes
#872

Hi all.

Im using Raspberrypi zero and cant make the interrupt work in python.
In the sample code of Adafruit is not present the interrupt (it is in the Arduino sample code)
Can someone show me what code are you using for interrupt?
Thanks

#873

FWIW - For the adruino code with Teensy I’m not using interrupts at all.

#874

Hey - I read most of this thread (yuge!) and didn’t see this. the JST PH cable listed in the BOM from Adafruit is out of stock, but I’m pretty sure this will also do the trick. Can someone confirm?

#875

I don’t think that’s going to work since the connector is female as well. Need some sort of male connector. Pretty sure I ordered that part hoping it’d work but was disappointed when it arrived because it didn’t. Thought I was going to be clever but I wasn’t.

1 Like
#876

As noted, you need a female connector not male

Adafruit links to digikey - or just search digikey or mouser for the adafruit part number:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/3568/7672337?s=N4IgjCBcoLQBxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDa4ArAEwIC6AvvYVWSAMwUBsd9QA

2 Likes
#877

I’ve had a great deal of issues wiring up my DIY Grid, after some initial success wiring the boards together. I’m about at the point where I’d be happy to pass the components on to another, more practiced solderer, for a good price. If anyone is interested, let me know. I have the case and flexible PCB carrier from @okyeron, just need to replace the teensy that I busted.

EDIT: This offer has been claimed!

#878

hi folks!
my neotrellis grid work perfectly. today i wanted to change the led colors so i plugged into arduino and tried to reflash it with the working paletted code version, but seems that arduino can’t talk to my teensy for whatever reason.
update: seems that you have to play the reset button while doing the update. weird

#879

Hey everyone, wondering how people are currently using their DIY grid devices on Linux. Installed from the ubuntu PPA from the docs, no dice. Then tried from master… still no luck.
Running serialosc-device /dev/ttyACM0 directly does find the grid though. Did some digging and it looks like it’s in issue with this function: serialosc/libudev.c at master · monome/serialosc · GitHub

Looks like the DIY grid does not pass this check, which is required for serialosc to attempt a connection. I removed the checks, recompiled and got it working but there’s probably a reason that check exists. :stuck_out_tongue:

Anyone with more knowledge care to chime in?

Note that this does allow the diy grid to be found by serialosc, but there are still issues with connecting/disconnecting while the daemon is running (looks like the diy grid takes just a bit longer to fully initialize and the connection attempts expire before the grid is available)

#880

Based on what you’ve reported @rrvvzz and what others have found using the FTDI breakouts as well as some norns/fates/shield users is that they have some immediate power on issues. In the case of the FTDI breakout boards the best results were when the teensy was powered separately and already on when connecting to a Teletype. In regards to the norns/fates/shield users were having to reset after connecting the DIY grid or power on with it connected. Personally I have fallen into both camps in my experimenting.

I’m curious if bodging in a MIC803 would help in this situation like it has other euro teensy projects. It seems counterintuitive in that you’re delaying the boot a bit but perhaps it would boot far more gracefully and perform better out the gate? I don’t know, kind of above my head but I’d definitely be willing to experiment. Literally just ordered a MIC803 a day ago for a t3.6 going into a TXO+ but I only ordered the one unfortunately.

#881

I got an FTDI friend working well with a modified version of my palette selector on Fates, Norns shield, and teletype. I keep hoping the couple of kind people who are working on revising the teletype code will make my hack unnecessary. But to save people the hassle I went through, I’ll post details on my GitHub this weekend.

3 Likes
#882

I’ve got a newer version of the code that eliminates a previous “long connection time errors” with libmonome - so that might solve the problem you’re seeing… I’ll check my github for whenever I did that last push (UPDATE - looks like the teensy code is updated on github - so try with the most recent code). I’ll re-do a hex with the new version soon.

What software are you connecting to on linux?

2 Likes
#883

I’m connecting to PD, tried connecting to Renoise as well. Works fine when I run serialoscd after connecting my grid. I’ll update my teensy though!

Does this also eliminate the device detection problems I mentioned with serialoscd on linux?

Update: The newest firmware looks to have solved the long connection time issue!

1 Like
#884

noob q…did some searching and couldn’t find an answer.

The teensy/grid device isn’t showing up in the maxpat test, but the terminal and system monitor are recognizing the monome usb connection. I flashed the teensy with serialosc unloaded.

Am i missing something obvious?

#885

you’ll need to load serialosc to get it to be recognized by Max

Assuming you’re on MacOS
launchctl load /Library/LaunchAgents/org.monome.serialosc.plist

#886

Yes I reload it before launching Max (forgot to mention)

#887

Are you working from the pre-made hex? If so - did you make sure your board addresses are the same on your hardware as in the example in the build guide? (also reminds me I need to make new hexes)

If you compiled yourself, then triple check your addresses in your version of the main sketch.

#888

Yes I uploaded the hex from the git with teensy loader and then uploaded the .ino file.

I used the address guide from the image in your git as well.

But would the hex need to be correct for the teensy to be recognized in max? Is it necessary?