It’s the whole error text that i pasted above.
I have teensyduino but can’t find usb_names.h only usb_names.c. This is through git pull and a freshly installed teensyduino with seesaw library.

usb_names.h comes with the teensyduino software; maybe that wasn’t installed correctly. i’d suggest uninstalling arduino/teensyduino and starting from scratch

It happened on a reinstall of teensyduino on mac. I wil try it this evening on another computer that i never use for these purposes.

20 characters of Inox finish

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I finally had time this evening. I installed it freshly on a windows pc and it worked. Still don’t know whats wrong with my macbook

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Anyone have tips on soldering the boards together? It’s hard to drag the solder between the pads and get it to stick (due to the tiny amount of solder mask at edge of the board). I tried using a little piece of wire too, but that is really finicky. Can’t say I love this design…

I need to do a little video about this…

I use a standard pin headers to bridge across the boards.

  • Put the pin header flat on the pads of one board with the second board close enough to support the other side.
  • Solder one side down.
  • Then pull the plastic bit off the pin header (with pliers)
  • Trim the pins a couple mm.
  • Solder the other side.

potato picture of first step:
image

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Genius! My only concern would be trying to pull off the plastic part (might stress the solder joints a bit?)

haven’t had a problem with this technique, but you can resolder the joints once the other side is attached. But - sometimes you gotta work fast so the pin doesn’t move around when you get both sides heated up.

Also FWIW - I don’t bother with soldering the top-side pads.

you can also try moving the plastic bit more to the center of the pins - or heat them up once first to “loosen up” the plastic a bit.

I found that soldering the top side pads flattened out some curling between boards.

I figured that would add one more potential source of “bulging”.

I 3D printed a jig that held the boards in place. From there, get solder on both adjacent pads, then get both flowing and hold the solder wire in between the joint as it cools to get both pads to bridge. Then a quick tap with the iron to release it after it cools.

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Now i know what this problem was…
My freshly installed teensyduino (on mac) had a arduino selected in the board settings of the program. Once setted to teensy 3.2 it sees the usb_names.h directly and compiles all fine

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Designing a jig seems like a good idea for keeping the boards perfectly lined up (I designed a 3d printed case, so i might as well have done that too); though, I had a lot of trouble trying to drag the solder between pads — the solder mask was just too effective at doing the job it was designed to do. In the end @okyeron’s method worked for me. In the process I discovered that not all header pins are designed equally – for some it was really easy to pull the plastic off, and for others it was near impossible (so it’s good to verify that before hand, I guess)

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I just loaded the firmware from @okyeron onto my teensy. The top left light blinks as expected. I just tried to test it out on MacOs with the test program that comes bundled with libmonome (which is in libmonome/build/examples/test when you build that software). I get the error message:

libmonome: could not open monome device: Resource busy

I get a similar message if I try to run serialoscd if the grid is already plugged in. If I plug in the grid after serialoscd is already running it seems to detect the grid fine.

To summarize: if the grid is already plugged in, I can’t seem to establish communication

Any thoughts as to why this is happen/if this is the correct behaviour?

FWIW - libmonome is only for linux I think (?) (You may want to uninstall that?)

serialosc - you may need to load/unload serialosc. I have to unload during development so I can flash the teensy and then load it again

choose your adventure from these:

launchctl load /Library/LaunchAgents/org.monome.serialosc.plist
launchctl unload /Library/LaunchAgents/org.monome.serialosc.plist

FWIW - I use the test-grid Max patch to test things.

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Thanks for the help. I thought I remembered using that libmonome test program in the past, but maybe that was on the raspberry pi (would make sense if it is linux only)

Anyway, it seems to be working (testing with serialoscd and supercollider). Thanks!

I did that too, seems to make the whole structure more solid.

I have had a few problems with those pads.
I tried making a solder bridge between boards but that went terribly bad.
I used resistor legs, solder each end of the resistor to a pad from each board, and then created a solder bridge over the leg.
I had two problems doing this. All being my fault that is. When trimming the resistors legs i pulled one pad and another time i damaged one of the caps that are close to the pad.
Luckily i was able to fix both.

This is alot leaner than what I did. I used pins too, but cut and lined them up and soldered the top and bottom pins first. Took awhile, but everything lined up nicely. Just putting the boards on a flat surface while soldering really helped.

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