DIY: norns shield KIT

thonks got em !

the tops are separate from the knobs so it would cost a few cents to get new caps

i for some reason still like the lines but yes faulty interface design at play

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How’s the quality of them? They feel nice and solid?

i think solid is more about encoder mounting and case design than knob but yes i like this full config quite a bit (better than other gear i’ve bought)

extra solid would be a case that allows for panel mounting (like in norns vanilla) which mine does not

oh warning: the skirted small sifam knobs might rub up against the screen depending on your spacers. pic above looks like unskirted which is safe


@okyeron is your case compatible with these spacers + knobs + key caps ?

want to adjust my design but i lost laser cutter access for now :’(

@andrew I’m waiting for some feedback on this layout - I’ve sent one to @tehn, @zebra and @dan_derks but the post office seems to have lost the one to Brian :frowning:

If the skirted knobs are 14mm at the base (which it looks like from specs), my knob holes may be too small by 1-2mm. But… the top plate may fit over the knobs. But otherwise should be ok. (See other thread for spacer lengths)

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Hello! I’m new here and in the Norns ecosystem.
Is this shield offering the same I/O and the same power than the original Norns?

Also, since I’m from Europe I’ll find better prices for parts here so most probably I’m buying just the shield. Can we get a reference for the screen?

Thank you!

@CarlosUnch look here, first post, there’s the link at the BOM. DIY: norns shield

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You can find the screen at Mouser, where I bought mine. Note that they are out of stock of the white one, and 867 will arrive in 18 weeks, at time of writing. An identical part but with yellow rather than white pixels is available right now. These are all linked out of the Octopart BOM in the main thread.

Broadly:

  • io is on a pair of stereo minijacks, rather than four quarter-inch/6.35mm jacks.
  • there is no dedicated headphone output or headphone driver/amp. You can use most headphones from the L/R output just fine.
  • power is supplied via a standard Raspberry Pi PSU. There is no battery.

The main thread, as linked to by @AlessandroBonino, is a good port of call for answers to these and similar questions.

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The yellow screen looks like it has a molex connection - isn’t that likely to be a problem?

get the non-molex version: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Newhaven-Display/NHD-27-12864WDY3?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshRHSPqbouvOvHakcQfxTKGYciXUknJAmbYwvGCfrLOQ%3D%3D

Yes. You emphatically don’t want the part ending -M. The one @tehn linked is correct, sorry.

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I apologize in advance, but I want to ask before I buy one: how difficult a build is the kit? Are the SMD parts pre-installed?

Quoting from the store page:

soldering is required. this board has the SMD parts pre-soldered (which are typically the most difficult to assemble).

It’s very easy. It took literally 15 minutes (it would take less but I have soldered less than 15 times in all my life), it’s just the encoders, the switches, and the headers for screen and pi.

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thank you both very much @AlessandroBonino @papernoise

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Oh no, I already ordered the one @infovore linked :weary:
I hope I can return it on Mouser without issues.

Edit: backordered 18 weeks… any other place to get one?

Not in Europe. Welcome to supply chains. The non-molex yellow one is still in stock at Mouser. (I was misled by the inaccurate product image there).

It looks neither the white or yellow are available;

I got it from digi-key (sent to Denmark), but was hit with the Fed-ex 45$ customs fee.

Jikes!

I found stock in Germany, shipping price to rest of EU is 25€ though.
Can someone confirm this is the right display?

https://www.luna-displays.de/en/OLED/Graphic-OLED/NHD-2-7-12864WDY3.html

The picture doesn’t have the molex connection and no M at the end of the product number either, but I don’t trust pictures anymore.

That is the correct part number for the yellow display.

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