#1024

I’ve reflowed it all. Ordered another display :unamused:

I have a case for the shield now worked out. Hopefully I can get the new one in and all will be well.

Then off course I have to figure out how to adjust the scripts to work with my monobright :slight_smile:

1 Like
#1025

If you have some jumpers and maybe a breadboard, you could try wiring the display directly to the pi GPIOs. With this specific display you have to make sure all the pins are properly connected tho (specifically all the gnd pins)

Then download and install the Luma oled packages for testing.

I could send you a test one-liner I’ve used to check my displays

FWIW - if the display failed, contact the seller. Mouser replaced one for me after a bit of troubleshooting discussion.

#1026

Interesting, it was also in Cranes that I had low level problems. I tried rebooting from Cranes specifically for that reason, though couldn’t reproduce. It may not be a cause but it would be worth monitoring whether softcut is involved generally when the problem happens.

#1027

@okyeron

I e-mailed digikey about the display but haven’t heard anything. Not sure why I ordered from them yet again. If I get the time I’ll breadboard it as I’ve got all that stuff and would like to narrow down where the issue is as I really want to dive into this thing and actually create some scripts for it. Also want to put the mk128 and mk64 I built ages ago to some use (even though they are monobright)

2 Likes
#1028

Is it just me or are the output L/R channels the wrong way round?

I can see the code is looking for a reverse.txt file to fix an issue with the shield but I don’t have that file. Did it get lost? Everything is fine if I add it.

1 Like
#1029

old edition (black) has reversed channels, so yes, adding reverse.txt is the solution for those. newer green boards are fixed.

2 Likes
#1030

Thanks for confirming. Mine is from the files in the GitHub repo

#1031

definitely was the display. Blerg, $40 out the door but the new one is in and working great so that is cool!

1 Like
#1032

Is there any difference in performance with the raspberry 3b vs b+ for this project?

#1033

Hiya, I’ve had the shield for about a month and my encoder 3 stopped responding mid-use a couple days ago. Tried cleaning the board and reflowing the solder incase something got in there or dislodged… that didn’t have any effect. I’ve had some of the buttons and encoder not respond right away before but usually they just require a bit of encouragement. Don’t know if that’s cuz of my not great soldering job, or if it’s unrelated… picture below of behind the encoder if it’s relevant. Any advice on troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated :’(

Summary

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#1034

A photo of the top side RasPi header pins might be helpful (to see if there’s something obvious with regards to soldering there)

Also looking at that picture - your display pins could use a little more love (i.e solder)

1 Like
#1035
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didnt reflow these—I suppose I should? didnt wanna mess with the display pins cuz havent had any problems with the display so I figured it could only hurt :joy:

#1036

yeah - i’d give those some more love. :grin:

Probably a good idea to repost this again: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

tools_Header_Joints

3 Likes
#1037

welp, i got em all lookin like the “OK” pics (thanks for sharing that by the way, very helpful to have on hand while in the act~), gave the display pins some love too and cleaned em all up… not sure if more pics are warranted or if pics of other parts would be useful.

recent things that may or may not be relevant? but are all I can think of...
  • I did hook up a bleached that was giving me some problems. Although I’m fairly certain I had all the issues with the bleached resolved prior to plugging it into norns, there is still a bit of grounding weirdness if I use the pots without knobs. Had it working with the norns though, and wasn’t using it at the moment that the encoder died. In fact I’ve used the bleached with it since the encoder died, as replacement controls, lol.
  • new power supply—now plugging the USB directly into a surge protector that has USB charging ports, instead of the wall plug/phone-like usb power. voltage and mA seemed appropriate, purchased from a reputable source.
#1038

Is this amazon link a good place to buy the raspberry?

#1039

First glance, yes it will work. No it’s not the best price.

1 Like
#1040

Kind of like that no example is any better than ‘OK’ :smiley:

1 Like
#1041

Got mine from Chicagodist.com

1 Like
#1042

Do you know if those heatsinks are needed? I havent seen them in shields builds

#1043

please do not buy from amazon

get them from adafruit or newark

14 Likes