the shield kit now includes this basic case and matching hardware. this will get you using the norns as quickly as possible, without having to order a bunch of other parts and have more bits shipped around.

i’ve adjusted the price to $200, and $65 for a smd-populated board— this will help keep the project healthy.

also: i’ve added more information to https://github.com/monome/norns-shield

the bottom of the README would be a good place to store helpful knowledge— please contribute there if you have a build or operation tip to share!

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Would be awesome to know the size of those spacers. Trying to find something similar and one of the challenges was translating the word into something I can Google manually :slight_smile:

thanks for the reminder, i’ll add the hardware info

Is anyone still waiting for DigiKey to ship their Display? I’ve ordered it one month ago and it said it would have arrived yesterday, but it’s still pending. Maybe this COVID-19 madness is causing some delays?

Just think of it s the arrows are sticky and wraps around the edge.
So “IN” wraps around and into the input.

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Thank you for the tip!

I had forgotten the engraved area would appear whitish, so didn’t request they add the paper backing at the cutting place. Unfortunately, they don’t do this by default so it came as in the photos, with no protective film on the engraved side.

I think I’m going to have just the engraved panels re-cut, and will definitely ask for the paper backing, next time!

Thanks, I will definitely get a pi3b+ at some point, but pi4 is all ive got at the moment and im fairly poor atm. good to know the shield will work for pi4 with a kernel swap. new kit is looking fab wow

I have successfully built a norns shield. When connecting my Monome 40h DIY (Original Kit 40h02/070526) the device is correctly recognized. The buttons work, but the LED feedback is faulty. The correct buttons are addressed e.g. with Awake, but there is only a glitchy, random blinking of the respective buttons.

I found out that repositioning or adding grid:refresh() commands in the scripts can solve the problem. This works for some apps (e.g. Awake, Foulplay, mlr64, …); but this is not a good fix.

Do you have an idea what this could be due to? I have already tested USB Power of the Raspi (5.1V, 2.5A)

can you give some examples of script modifications you’re making?

does the 40h work fine on a computer?

Yes, the 40h runs without any problems on a Win10 PC. I also have a PICnome that has the same LED error on the Norns Shield.

Basic example: “Norns Study 4” of the official documentation.
I have added a g:refresh() inside the “for loop” of the grid_redraw function. Actually, this “idea” was simply a copy/paste mistake.

function grid_redraw()
g:all(0)
for i=1,16 do
g:led(i,steps[i],i==position and 15 or 4)
g:refresh()
end
g:refresh()
end
In the Awake script I added a g:refresh() command to the line 387. In the Foulplay script I added a g:refresh() command to the line 797. In all cases it is the first “for loop” of the grid_redraw.

Just built a new Norns Shield, I still don’t understand how to output midi. I’ve tried a USB-USB cable going from Norns to a PC but it’s recognized as a MIDI device inside the PC. Do I need something more?

Did you build the new one with case? If so can you measure the spacers for me?

i’ll post the spacer list when i get to the workshop

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That’s plugging in a host to another host. You’ll need to make up one of these 2hosts, or there are various solutions from Retrokit, or iConnectivity.

The cheapest option would be to get two USB to Midi IO cables, and connect up the ins and outs.

I hope that helps.

standoffs/mechanicals posted to the bottom of README at https://github.com/monome/norns-shield along with mcmaster order numbers

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The Presi-dip screen headers are out of stock, and my screen did not survive.

Will this SIL Header work as a replacement?

I’d like to get back up and running sooner rather than later.

Just ordered at mousers and helped myself with looking for 1x20 header at ebay…seems to be the same, costs about 2 eur for 5 pieces… (Preci-dip 20 pin ultra low profile)

Your link shows male to male while i you ll need m to f according to the githup pictures

Could you share a link to the ebay item please? I’m also in Europe.

Thanks!

And yes! Totally right about the male to female thing!