can you give some examples of script modifications you’re making?

does the 40h work fine on a computer?

Yes, the 40h runs without any problems on a Win10 PC. I also have a PICnome that has the same LED error on the Norns Shield.

Basic example: “Norns Study 4” of the official documentation.
I have added a g:refresh() inside the “for loop” of the grid_redraw function. Actually, this “idea” was simply a copy/paste mistake.

function grid_redraw()
g:all(0)
for i=1,16 do
g:led(i,steps[i],i==position and 15 or 4)
g:refresh()
end
g:refresh()
end
In the Awake script I added a g:refresh() command to the line 387. In the Foulplay script I added a g:refresh() command to the line 797. In all cases it is the first “for loop” of the grid_redraw.

Just built a new Norns Shield, I still don’t understand how to output midi. I’ve tried a USB-USB cable going from Norns to a PC but it’s recognized as a MIDI device inside the PC. Do I need something more?

Did you build the new one with case? If so can you measure the spacers for me?

i’ll post the spacer list when i get to the workshop

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That’s plugging in a host to another host. You’ll need to make up one of these 2hosts, or there are various solutions from Retrokit, or iConnectivity.

The cheapest option would be to get two USB to Midi IO cables, and connect up the ins and outs.

I hope that helps.

standoffs/mechanicals posted to the bottom of README at https://github.com/monome/norns-shield along with mcmaster order numbers

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The Presi-dip screen headers are out of stock, and my screen did not survive.

Will this SIL Header work as a replacement?

I’d like to get back up and running sooner rather than later.

Just ordered at mousers and helped myself with looking for 1x20 header at ebay…seems to be the same, costs about 2 eur for 5 pieces… (Preci-dip 20 pin ultra low profile)

Your link shows male to male while i you ll need m to f according to the githup pictures

Could you share a link to the ebay item please? I’m also in Europe.

Thanks!

And yes! Totally right about the male to female thing!

Anyone have a link for a yellow OLED screen ? The one posted earlier in this thread is out of stock

direct from manufacturer:
https://www.newhavendisplay.com/nhd2712864wdy3-p-9542.html

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Here’s my build so far. Working good internally but waiting on spacers for the enclosure.

Just for info I bought some grey button caps and black ones from mouser both of them fit. When I read the description I wasn’t sure if the black ones would fit but ordered anyway.
Mouser P/N 611-PVGY for grey caps. Mouser P/N 611-PVBK for black caps.

Hope that helps someone :smiley:

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Any way i can turn off or modify timer on automatic screen turning off? It does not seem like a usefull feature on Shield.

I am brand new to this and am very impressed with the norns shield and this community. So first, thank you. I built the kit and am using it with a RPi 3 B+. So far everything works beautifully, except…
I have an issue with the display, and I can’t find any posts about it. It looks like some of the pixels aren’t drawn, and at first I thought it was an aliasing issue, but doesn’t seem to be. Screenshots are perfect, but often (not always!) there are gaps in this one vertical area. When this is scrolled, the issue scrolls with it, so it’s not dark pixels. Is this likely to be a hardware issue? Any hints of where to look?

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try fiddling with the orange ribbon cable and see if the pixels flicker.

not sure why it would be less useful on a shield - its main purpose is to avoid burn-in on the OLED, which is a real problem. (both permanent burn-in and temporary image retention.)

anyways, the most direct way is to disable the screensaver timer in norns/lua/core/screen.lua… i’m not sold on making this part of the public API since it does affect hardware lifetime?

if you’re writing scripts and want the screen to wake up in response to specific actions, use screen.ping().

Thanks for your suggestion. When I try fiddling I am seeing no flickering or change. Not sure how aggressively I should fiddle, though…