try fiddling with the orange ribbon cable and see if the pixels flicker.

not sure why it would be less useful on a shield - its main purpose is to avoid burn-in on the OLED, which is a real problem. (both permanent burn-in and temporary image retention.)

anyways, the most direct way is to disable the screensaver timer in norns/lua/core/screen.lua… i’m not sold on making this part of the public API since it does affect hardware lifetime?

if you’re writing scripts and want the screen to wake up in response to specific actions, use screen.ping().

Thanks for your suggestion. When I try fiddling I am seeing no flickering or change. Not sure how aggressively I should fiddle, though…

seems the screen needs replacing. email help@monome.org

I was wrong then assuming that it’s mainly to preserve battery on Norns. Good to know.

2 posts were split to a new topic: Norns pset/pmap file locations

You nailed it - it was the screen. This machine is now perfect. Thank you very much.

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Probably a silly question, but if I swap the SD card with one containing a standard Raspbian build, would it work OK as a standard RPi, with the Norns shield installed?

My young son has discovered Minecraft and it would be cool if he can still play it, after I’ve installed the Norns shield.

So it seems like i made all the idiot mistakes one can do with the first bit of soldering…
The oled pins didnt fit the little distance header so i left it away…decided to deal with the inconvenience…but in all genius affect i managed to solder the old on the wrong side of shield pcb as i think someone prior in this topic did too… i have no idea how to get the oled off again… motivation > concentration ouhh… crp

Tried clipping the solder points but not the right tools for this tiny…

Any pointers for the size and brand for the sd card? I saw somewhere that the quality needs to be good, so before I buy…

I use a Sandisk Ultra card in mine like I usually do with Raspberry Pi’s, it’s a class 10 card. I have the 64 GB variant, it seems to be more than enough size wise.

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First thing is to be patient, and realise that it might take a while :slight_smile:
Desoldering is tricky if you have lots of pins in your component. There are dedicated tools but if you’re not going to be doing a lot of soldering in future, the economical options are:

  • soldering braid. Metal braid which the solder flows into when both are heated, removing the solder from the joint.
  • solder sucker. A mechanical spring-loaded device which can suck up the solder once you’ve heated it to liquid form
  • chipquik alloy. You can buy this in short lengths, e.g. on ebay. It effectively lowers the temperature at which you can remove the component, making it easier to remove it at lower heat without excessive force.
  • Or combinations of above.

The main thing to avoid is to use excessive force as this is likely to damage the conductive pads and traces in your PCB.

Good luck!

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Thanks
Yes i ordered a heated desolder gun/sucker.
The pins i cutted with a fine saw…hopefully the pressure/inside pcb contacts isnt too late.
Meanwhile got a replacement female header for the oled pins and this time it fits, so i somehow had a wrong part it seems.

i’d suggest solder braid. it’ll get those holes cleared right up.

I happened to watch this video a couple of days ago, there’s a pretty good demonstration of how you use that solder braid hehe

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6 posts were merged into an existing topic: Norns shield case designs

Hi there,

Maybe you can help. After playing with the Norns Shield for 2 week, it says: - Supercollider fail

Yesterday I was playing at our rehearsal space witch has a new carpet. A view times I touched my eurorack and the Norns and got a little „electric shock“. Propably because of my sneakers reacting to the new carpet. But it was working for some time afterward and then I took my shoes off anyway - just in case.

The other thing I realized was that wenn the Norns was connected to my small Mackie mixer and there was a electric clicking every one minute. I didn’t have that at my home studio. But that’s why I didn’t use it. A little later I saw that the screen stayed:

  • Supercollider fail

If I want to put Norns to sleep the sleep text become less opaq after clicking, but nothing else happens and I have to restart.

I can connect via maiden but in the lower section at sc it says:

  • not connected to sc

Also there seams to be a untitled.lua file in there.

Refreshing doesn’t help. I can upload and download new Apps onto my Norse but I can’t start any of the Apps. It always stucks at:

  • …loading

I uploaded the new flash on the Norns shield several times, but it still isn’t working with:

Norns200106

Also after the last installation the screen was turned 180° (on the head as to the usual rotation - see image attached).

But still is says error Supercollider fail. And now the knobs aren’t reacting anymore. The same after installing it several times. The card was flashed with Mac using utitity fat32 and ExFat.

Wenn I try to offline update an adding the code

  • screen /dev/tty.usb

In terminal on my Mac it says:

  • Screens is terminating

Btw. I got the smd soldered version of Norns shield and the rest of the parts were soldered by a very good friend who solders a lot and it looked very good. Does anyone know what I can do?

Thank you

Does anyone know the metric sized equivalents for the spacers listed in the readme?

  • 2 Female Threaded Hex Standoff Aluminum, 3/16" Hex, 5/16" Long, 2-56 Thread 91780A104
  • 2 Female Threaded Hex Standoff Aluminum, 3/16" Hex, 5/8" Long, 2-56 Thread 91780A111
  • 2 Female Threaded Hex Standoff Aluminum, 3/16" Hex, 3/4" Long, 2-56 Thread 91780A113
  • 4 Male-Female Threaded Hex Standoff Aluminum, 3/16" Hex Size, 1/2" Long, 2-56 Thread Size 93505A213
  • 4 Off-White Nylon Unthreaded Spacer 1/4" OD, 3/32" Long, for Number 6 Screw Size 94639A247
  • 8 Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Screws 2-56 Thread, 1/4" Long 91249A050
  • 2 Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Screws 2-56 Thread, 3/8" Long 91249A054

ExFat is not what you want.

Tried it with fat32 as well. Still doesn’t work. Maybe I should try again with a windows?