I’ve been experiencing bad performance on my shield with a 3b (not +)
Bad taming on midi out from Orca, Orca also becomes really slow to navigate with just a few samples playing. I also get clicks in the audio from Nisp, Orca and molly the polly etc. when to many voices is triggered.

that would be ace - i have access to a Voltera V-One PCB Printer

Got mine working last night! Crazy!
Seems like the OLED is having trouble keeping its connection, though—could I reflow the solder while it’s attached to the header perhaps?
I wonder if I used the wrong side of the header pins; I soldered the thicker pins to the OLED board.

Hey, all. First post here, super stoked to finally have the parts to put together a shield tonight! :slight_smile:

I have very limited soldering experience… Am I in over my head, or should the kit be doable for a (almost complete) beginner?

Finally, I have an iron, but I don’t have any solder… recommendations for what to get/ avoid?

thanks, friends :slight_smile:

I have never soldered before putting one (successfully) together last night. But I had the expert and generous guidance of @wheelersounds in the room.

Will send updates once we get our enclosure in place!

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The kit is very doable. You just need to solder the encoders, the switches and the headers for screen and pi. All the hard stuff (SMD) is already soldered on, so it’s very easy. I am an almost complete beginner myself, and it took 15 minutes. The only suggestion I have is: get a soldering station with temperature control.

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for the noobs out there like myself if you need help with the PI…

Also, is it really super easy to fry the 3V3 pin on the PI?

Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display
https://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Red_power_LED_is_blinking

STICKY: Is your Pi not booting? (The Boot Problems Sticky)
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=437084#p437084

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Check for a short between gnd and 3v3. Also 5v and gnd. If there is a short you might have fried your board. No green light means the device is not booting up at all. Could also just mean an error in your sd card image.

Worked first try! Couldn’t be more excited to dive in! :slight_smile:

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tried 3 different SD cards (different brands)

i’ll be sad if i killed my first pi. been skimming the net looking for the solution and might be in the denial stage of grievances. what setting should i have the multi meter at and what value should it be reading? Thanks for the tip

Continuity/beep. If you get a beep across 5v and ground or 3v and ground you have a short. Or just set to ohm and check resistance across those points. If you see 0 ohm you have a short.

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might be a dumb question but should the pi be plugged into the power source?

Nope! No power applied.

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Does someone knows affordable laser cutting services in Europe? Ponoko’s shipping cost is big.

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Razorlab (UK) is the same as ponoko

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Hola Carlos!!!

When I had to do some laser cutting I did it with http://wecancut.com/. They are in Barcelona and I have been cool.

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In Spain? even better. Thanks a lot!

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Stupid noob question:

how does one get MIDI i/o with Norns DIY? I assume USB-MIDI-equipped devices can be plugged directly into the RPi USB ports, but is there builtin provision for an external MIDI DIN interface for connection to MIDI gear without USB?

you are correct. usb-midi is the best (and very cheap) approach.

it may be confusing to some people, but norns was designed as to not add anything non-essential (ie, not everyone wants CV, not everyone wants midi, not everyone wants a row of keyboard octaves).

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Hi @tehn

thanks for the quick response.

Does that mean it’s possible for Norns scripts to address an external USB > DIN MIDI interface, then?

I’m still not 100% clear on that point.

If so, are there any limitations on the type of interface that will work? Is it possible to address eg multiple ports of a multi-port USB MIDI DIN interface?

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