#411

these work, i might even say they are the most commonly used usb-midi interfaces.

3 Likes
#412

Just populated the board, anybody have any tips on cleaning the PCB?

#413

Isopropyl alcohol will do the trick.

#414

I have just ordered a norns shield kit, and was wondering what colour the OLED display included will be?
I was hoping for white like the prebuilt one, however I see there is a variety of different colours like yellow.
Or is it possible to change the colour of the display?

1 Like
#415

Hi people, anybody here is from EU? I would like to buy one of these units but I can’t solder.

#416

You don’t know it yet but you can solder through-hole :slight_smile:
Get the SMD populated PCB and a cheapo soldering iron on amazon or aliexpress.

I’m from EU.

2 Likes
#417

Thank you. Can I use Raspberry Pi 4? Other question: do you think more and more patches will be made for this platform? Seems like there are not that many of them at the moment.

#418

They are a lot. Also you can install ORAC, its own platform.

Pi 4 is not recommended yet as may have some compatibility problems. Pi 3b+ is the one with full support by the moment.

3 Likes
#419

So, this is the full list of all available patches? https://llllllll.co/search?expanded=true&q=%23library%20tags%3Anorns%20order%3Alatest_topic

#420

The display in the BOM (Bill Of Materials- the list of all the parts used) is white, so I assume the one with the kit is the same part.

The particular display is only available in white and yellow, as far as I can tell.

It’s a monochrome display, so no.

1 Like
#421

I just received a Norns Shield kit yesterday and it came with a yellow display. The yellow display looks OK next to my grid and the displays on my ER-301.

#422

I stand corrected…

Incidentally, I’ve had some success using coloured lighting gel over white OLEDs. You lose a little brightness, but you can have any colour display you like, that way :slight_smile:

3 Likes
#423

the kit display is yellow. you can get a white display if you’re sourcing all the parts yourself— just order a populated pcb.

@Ukasz i’d suggest spending some time reading the forum, the norns documentation, and look at the existing Library… there are probably over 100 scripts, all community contributed. but norns is not just a script-running box. the main reason it exists is to make custom scripts, and we’ve invested tons of energy into tutorials for this. i would not recommend norns to you if your first reaction is disappointment at the number of scripts.

@toneburst this is a rad idea!! we used gels before on some old arc editions to tune the orange “just right” — i could see this being good for warming up that cold cold white OLED

8 Likes
#424

Also some of the apps are so deep! I’ve literally not even touched anything else except less concepts and tutorials.

1 Like
#425

I have a red one currently on my Per|Former Eurorack sequencer module. It looks great! I tried to take a photo to post here, but that didn’t do it justice, sadly.

#426

I’m on my second OLED and shield… tore up pads on the first one trying to remove the headers after an unsuccessful boot (the shield is still in tact though and I can probably fix the OLED pads). Second run has had better luck—it started a couple times—but the OLED shorts out with very slight movement. Currently it doesn’t want to boot up. Mentioned it previously but I believe my mistake has been soldering the header for the OLED on the wrong way, so that the skinnier legs are being inserted into the male header on the shield. Reflowing made it start up correctly again but seems to lose contact after ten or twenty minutes. Can that header go on the wrong way?
I’m still deciding what steps to take next. I just want to keep it posted here as cautionary tale!
Keep trucking!

#427

Yes, the headers that come with the kit have a skinny side and a thick side; the skinny side is the side that gets attached to the screen. Otherwise, as you’re likely experiencing, the pins move around inside the sockets and have an unreliable connection. You might be able to fix it with a solder sucker/desoldering braid combo.

3 Likes
#428

Thank you for confirming this suspicion—hopefully have this straightened out soon. As well as give other electronics noobs like me a chance to avoid making the same mistake! The desoldering has been a painful lesson in patience. Happy to be on the last(?) stretch now :wink:

2 Likes
#429

Okay thanks for clearing this up, can’t wait to get stuck into this transferring my newly gained skills coding on Processing!

#430

Ugh, just discovered I’ve been getting undervoltage warnings with BOTH of my 10,000mAh battery packs (even though they both claim to be able to deliver 2.5-3A at 5V).

Anyone able to post a model of battery pack that will work? How have others been getting on with battery power?

2 Likes