#431

Could you share more details of your setup? Is there a particular script and combination of devices you have connected? Are you using an RPI 3B or 3B+?

I can test here with a large 26,800mAh Anker brand battery but I’d like to make the test representative.

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#432

the random battery pack I have that seems to work (with grid + arc) has the brand EasyAcc on it and the model number PB000CB. also has a built-in short microusb cable

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#433

Heeeeeeeeyyyy, so I’ve never soldered before, got the kit and everything works ish.

Having said that, what is the best way to debug a screen misconnection? I can get some pixels every few bootups if I jostle the screen a bit. I assume it’s poor soldering, but I don’t know what I’m looking for to figure out which pin to fix on the header.

I plugged in headphones and had no issue with the audio, it seems to just be a screen issue.
I tried to use a multimeter, which I also don’t really know know to use, by touching the pins, followed the circuit board and touched the corresponding metal circles. They all made connections (beeps on the meter).

Any very basic but specific to this kit advice is appreciated.

Edit: despite lurking on this thread since it’s inception, i didn’t quite understand the skinny/thick pin issue on the double male header until perhaps now? would that be the issue? i assume yes

#434

I think that might well be your issue - I had the same problem so I had a fun half an hour desoldering and resoldering a new header last night :slight_smile:

So the thing is that one side of the header has thicker pins than the other and will make a better connection to the female header on the other side. You can probably, as I did, verify that this is the issue by carefully propping up the display in a somewhat upward angled position so that the pins are more sure to make a connection. (edit: I’d say already, if you can angle the display up or down a bit you’ve probably got the wrong side pins)

The easiest fix for me for this kind of thing is to find a replacement header so I don’t have to keep the old one. Makes desoldering much easier if you’re not forced to keep the old header, you can cut plastic apart and do one or more pins at a time. After that you can use a solder sucker on the other side of the hole to clear it out.

Make sure before you resolder that the new male header has a firm grip inside the female connection.

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#436

I first noticed issues with audible xruns in awake-passerby with nothing extra connected. Pi model is 3B+.

So far the 2.4A output on my big multi-usb brick as well as both my Samsung and EasyAcc powerbanks will produce an undervoltage warning from the kernel.

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#438

Maybe already asked but can Norns and Shield sync together?
Or Shield and Shield?

#439

Thank you for the help. I checked with the technique you suggested and indeed: i fucked myself. I don’t really know how to remove the header without destroying the screen, so i’m just going to get a new screen and header.

This header thing is mega important to anyone building this.

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#440

Aw - I’d give it a go if I were you. A new header is one thing but it’s a shame if you have to buy a new screen.

Like I said, the easiest (to me) is to snip away as much of the black plastic of the header as you can and then apply your soldering iron and pull out individual pins. It’s a bit tedious but really not a difficult job. Hope you can make it work :slight_smile:

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#441

maybe some solder braid and flux to remove the header from the screen?
Hope you get it fixed

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#442

I think you could do it with a sevillasoft usb-usb. Or passing thru midi cables. Or with two crows :smiley:

#443

Listen you can disconnect the screen from the PCB by turning the black metal thingies straight and then deconnecting the ribbon from the screen.
After that you can use a pump or hot iar gun to get all the pins out and you save a screen…

Worth trying

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#444

You mean two USB A cable like for programming the eurorack monome modules?

LOL :joy:

#445

No that won’t work, norns is a host and you can’t connect two midi hosts together without some circuitry between them.
I use a 2host by @okyeron, there’s also a commercial equivalent made by sevillasoft, look up in the thread it’s been discussed already.

A nice alternative would be to implement ableton link in norns, in think it’s already been discussed somewhere here or on github.

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#446

This is exactly what i would do (and have done in the past). Just be careful and methodical and you’ll be able to get the pins out one by one.

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#447

My god so 2 units so powerfull and wireless could not connect to each other?
I’ll try the 2host i think or that other thing of sevilla…

#448

it’s not about “power”, or how they connect. it’s about what’s available in the systems as they exist, and how some quite low-level protocols work. In this case, one of those low-level protocols is USB, which requires one device to be a host, and the other client. That’s just how USB works.

In the realm of “why doesn’t this work wirelessly?!” the latency of networking, the relative complexity compared to a simple standard like midi clock, not to mention other priorities on the implementation team’s end, are probably things to consider.

However, MIDI is less interested in host/client. A pair of USB MIDI adapters that have din sockets on them could be attached, with a DIN lead from the OUT of the timekeeping machine to the IN of the one to receive MIDI clock, and then you can use MIDI clock, accurate as it is.

Do you have two devices you wish to sync?

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#449

Quite complex or maybe not
Here is the plan:
NDLR master clock > Roli Grand
Norns > ORCA > MUC810 > Buchla system 1
fates > crow > Eurorack

I have other configs but let’s try that…

#450

Yeah, 2x USB MIDI seems to be the easiest and best solution.

@Gregory_Delabelle If you have time to spare you could try out getting JACK synced between two devices. Note that this is in no way a supported configuration but if you really want it you might be able to get it to work. Btw do this only over a wired network connection, wireless is useless for anything regarding (real-time) audio.

#451

You mean output of one in the input of one?

I don’t think there is another way than the 2x USB MIDI cables

#452

No, I meant stuff like this https://jackaudio.org/faq/netjack.html

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