#476

I also have a sloping screen (waiting on getting some spacers to hold it up). The pins are definitely all the way in on mine and quite firmly held. Possibly there are slightly different tolerances on these parts. I’ll let you all know if the spacer set I ordered have ones the right size!

1 Like
#477

The holes for screen spacers are smaller than M2.5, I’ve discovered. I bought some M2.5 5mm M-F standoffs, but the M part won’t fit through the holes.

#478

Noob question: which script would function as a quick-and-dirty post-build audio IO test?

Incidentally, I ordered a yellow OLED from DigiKey last week. It was on back-order, with an expected delivery date of today (02.11.2020).

I just checked, and the expected delivery date has now jumped to 05.18.2020 :frowning:

The white version is now expected 3.16.2020, apparently.

I guess a lot of things made in China are going to be delayed for a while…

1 Like
#479

Just had a nice long jam with the Anker 13000, Grid connected as well. No issues. Micro USB Input, 2 USB A outputs. 3 A output.

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12 Likes
#480

FWIW - those holes under the display corners are M2. But… a nylon M2.5 M-F standoff will fit with some coaxing.

2 Likes
#481

I used 8mm Nylon M-F stand-offs and clipped the male end to make little mounts. Screw fits underneath the Shields board.

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5 Likes
#482

I made the M2 hole in the PCB a little larger using a fine-tipped round file.

2 Likes
#483

So I replaced my PI because i shorted my other one. i plugged in the shield and now i don’t get anything on the screen. is it possible to short the screen or the components on the shield to make this happen? The pi seems to be booting the SD card fine but i can’t see whats going on. not sure what to do.

#484

Another noob question: is it normal for it to stick at “SHUTTING DOWN”, after running update?

#485

Correct. You have to unplug power to shut all the way off.

1 Like
#486

looks great! I did something similar with my standoff stackup, will publish my list and some assembly photos

also, you can push your key caps on further… it takes a weirdly huge amount of force but they will eventually snap down

@outoftunewolf I would suggest reheating all of the joints on your screen headers

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#487

Man, yeah thanks. I never would’ve thought to press them down that hard. Yikes.

I felt compelled to test them after that. They survived the battle.

#488

I use the same battery, with grid/USB midi/teensy all connected and it works well, lasts ages

1 Like
#489

All working!

Had a little panic when the OLED stopped working. Seems OK now, though.

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3 Likes
#490

I’m back with more dumb questions sorry in advance
Is this solder ok ?
Or what should I get ?
Thank you

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#491

Awake, which is what a fresh Norns boots into, should start playing sound. It will be a little quiet because the filter is a little closed. Scroll to “SOUND” with E1, and adjust filter with appropriate encoder. You should be hearing audio out the output.

#492

Doesn’t norns also have a faint bootup “hmmmmmmmm”?

#493

I mean, it’ll probably work - it’s electrical solder, and rosin core. But it’s so fat. I tend to use 0.4 or 0.7mm solder for my work. fat solder has inevitably been a shortcut to messy work, I tend to find, and recommend fine-pitch solder to newcomers. Lead-free is fine, but be patient with it - it has a slightly higher melting point than leaded. So you’ll find that lead-free that thick will need a decent amount of heat, by which I mean, a decent amount of time with the soldering iron held on the joint for it to melt. (Thermodynamics!)

1 Like
#494

Cool, thanks. I discovered “Awake” in the end, by scrolling through all of the scripts.

Audio out seems to work. Now need to test the input.

#495

Ok i understand
What you are saying thanks