#88

Yeah, we use the same overlay for both norns and the norns shield, the pins everything is connected to are different though so the overlay was updated to make the pins configurable.
See https://github.com/monome/linux/pull/40 for details.

1 Like
#89

when in doubt: remove the chip, clean everything, and put it back on. (or perhaps you already did this?)

2 Likes
#90

just about to do thisā€¦ :stuck_out_tongue:

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#91

Sounding great! Thank you for making this fantastic device.
DSC_1052

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#92

It does work perfectly with a raspberry-pi compatible wi-fi nub though (Iā€™m using the one from my original norns).

#93

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@AlessandroBonino Same! Very quick build, and that amazing feeling when I plugged it in and saw the fireworks. :grinning:

Thanks for your work @tehn !

@corpusjonsey What are those knobs? I put chroma caps on mine, but theyā€™re a bit taller than I like.

9 Likes
#94

I swapped out the knobs on a Machinedrum a while back with the rubbery ones from Elektron. These are the original ones off the MD.

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#95

Well I slept on ordering stuff, and it seems the encoders are sold out of Mouser and Digikey. Anybody have opinions on other options? Digikey is set to ship Jan 20 and Mouser says they wonā€™t have any until Marchā€¦
EDIT: Going to order the knurled shaft version of the same thing, should be fine no?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PEC11R-4015K-N0024?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsWp46O%2Bq11WUFm4YUtE9euaXubLa0LPIg%3D

#96

indeed, knurled are ok!

2 Likes
#97

Is there a github issue somewhere for the wifi not working?
(Doing some research on this right now.)

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#98

right here I do believe and looks like some new progress too

!! excited for the final product !!

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#99

20 char of YASSSSSSSSS.

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image3024Ɨ4032 2.07 MB

7 Likes
#100

How do I check this? I think I may have done a pretty bad soldering job on it but Iā€™m not quite sure.

edit: Must have had a bridge underneath it, pins 2 and 3 were shorting. I applied solder wick to it until it didnā€™t short and now it seems to work! Havenā€™t tested audio yet but Iā€™ve got this farā€¦

#101

Epilogue: decided not to attempt this at 1am without proper desoldering alloy or tools. Unless anyone knows of a technique to remove a chip without alloy/ special tools? Iā€™ve ordered some chipquik, but wonā€™t have that before Christmas I think.

Convinced I seated the chip too far back on one side - shorting the ground via underneath to the nearest leg.

#102

iā€™d get some solder wick along with flux & some tweezers in order to avoid lifting traces

#103

Right - but how would you heat both sides at the same time?

#104

I used hot air to desolder mine, I wouldnā€™t know how to do it with an iron

#105

Once most of the solder is removed w/ solder wick and flux you can grip the chip with tweezers and run the iron along both sides while applying very gentle pressure (so as not to lift pads). Iā€™m pretty sure thereā€™s an eevblog video or something similar on YouTube thatā€™ll demonstrate desoldering chips.
(Hot air guns are handy if you have access to one)

1 Like
#106

I had the same problem last time - just lifted it up and reattached it

also be sure to get enough solder too, once you flux around the outside a surprising amount will flow under the part. v satisfying

#107

I donā€™t have a hot air station, so lifting it wasnā€™t an option, unfortunately (unless thereā€™s a technique using an iron that Iā€™m missing?).

Anyway, audio works and Iā€™m happy. Next step is to design a nice 3d printed enclosure and build the other two boards to sell, which will mean Iā€™ll effectively have a free norns :smiley: