When you factor in cost of parts + PCB, the Pre-built board is about the same cost. If you are not going to build yourself, just go for this option IMO.

That said! And in the interests of community spirit, I have some spare pcbs here which I am quite happy to test + populate for the price of sending me relevant parts. It would be a shame to see the PCBs go to waste. DM me. I’m in Ireland.

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Have seen someone selling the same kind of builds on ebay and from Germany - likely same guy!

Thanks toneburst and Oootini, I’m not in a financial position to grab one just yet just window shopping and working out what’s the best way to get into the world of Norns.

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Almost certainly the same - they did a great job, took a while but everything seems good so far.

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Hi, I just assembled my kit and had exactly the same issue. I wonder if it just a problem the firmware?? not sure how a flipped screen would occur from a bad solder joint, but I am no electronics expert.

I suspect the image linked on the DIY instructions github page ( get this shield image from github. *nb.), is not the correct one? as it it’s not the same as the one on this thread? (and not named nornsXXXX-shield.img) ?? Perhaps this is the reason for my problem with the screen being upside down…
@outoftunewolf @tehn … ? I’m about to test it out. I’ll report back soon.

That disk image appears to be the most recent one, but there might be an error/omission (and it thinks it’s a factory norns and not a shield maybe?).

Perhaps the /boot/config.txt param for screen rotation is missing in this version?

I believe if you run the SYSTEM>UPDATE to get to the most recent norns version, it should fix this and install the correct config.txt

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yeah i tried the one linked on this thread, and it seems to have fixed those problems. it’s certainly not the right firmware for the shield linked on the github, there were other problems (knobs didnt work and no boot up animation)

OK. I’ve got everything working, one annoying problem is that the bottom few lines of the oled are not displaying properly, they are kind of distorted (lower brightness squares, rather than higher brightness characters). I’ve tested for continuity through the oled headers and everything is fine, I’ve also reheated all the solder joints, still the same problem… Does anyone have any pointers?

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published a bad doc update, you need 200106-shield image not 200424. will fix

edit: link is fixed

Yes, this is what I assumed happened to me as well. Had to put the project down for a bit but got it working yesterday afternoon. I forgot to mention it on here. The image link at the top of this thread was the one that ended up working for me.

OK folks, I checked all my soldering with a magnifying glass (have also reheated/replaced, checked for cold joints and blobby solder) and some basic tests with a multimeter through the headers and such. My display still has a problem. The bottom 5 pixels display like this when bottom row is highlighted, but completely black when not. could this be crosstalk or is the screen broken? is there an easy way to test the screen in isolation?

email help@monome.org about this screen

Been using my DIY norns for about five months now, loving it as always. One thing I’ve noticed recently is a good deal of noise when plugged into my modular system, if powering via a USB hub. Is there a better way to power the Norns? Should I try AC power?

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I’m using USB isolator, HiLetgo-ADUM3160-Voltage-Isolator-Support from Amazon.
It really helps me with USB humming for OP-Z, may work for Norns too.

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I never encountered such issues with AC power.

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i would definitely AC power, or use a big USB battery.

powering off a USB hub will almost always result in ground hum issues.

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Makes sense, thanks for the responses here. One followup—can anyone recommend a power supply that would fit the 3B+, or at least the specs I should look out for?

i use an official rpi power supply.

get at least 2A

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Is it possible that I could integrate a small DIY power source like this, expanding the shield case by some amount to fit it inside, to power my shield? There is a 5V regulator discussed but I’m not 100% sure about current and if it would supply enough/what battery pack(s) I’d need to power everything.

I could just stick a portable USB battery into a bigger case with the shield, but something feels wrong to me about that :sweat_smile:

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@TomWhitwell got something like this to work in a fates case so its definitely possible! he did mention it required a little but of surgery on the fates board though.

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