#1289

I bought it directly from Monome. I believe I bought the last one in stock. I’m a repair technician and have been soldering and building stuff for 30 years. I didn’t want to have to deal with the SMD parts. Sourcing some of the parts seems to be difficult in some areas of the world as well. I figured the cost would be pretty close if you figured in my time as well

Hope you find one to build!

1 Like
#1290

Are they there? I don’t have experience ordering pcbs either so may be missing something. I see eagle on github, and an older post in this thread about errors trying to convert to gerber.

1 Like
#1291

Ah no I built them myself.norns-shield_2020-09-28.zip (116.0 KB)

#1292

Thanks so much! 20char

#1293

Hi guys,
Noob question here, first project, minor soldering experience.
I got PCBs with some SMD parts pre-assembled from JLCPCB. Then added CS4270 and the crystal myself.
The problem is, when connected to Pi the C9 capacitor went on fire.
I really don’t see whats wrong, please help!

image
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#1294

show us physical pictures of the board in question. Can’t debug without seeing the board (or what’s left of it).

That’s a polarized capacitor. Did you put it onto the board in the right orientation?

1 Like
#1295

Oops, didn’t know it was polarized, how do I know which side is right? This one was soldered by the assembly service, no idea if they took it into account.

IMG_5700
IMG_57004032×3024 2.26 MB

Attaching a clean board as it came from the factory. Do you see any issues? Many thanks.

IMG_5701
IMG_57014032×3024 1.7 MB

#1296

actually, I lied: it’s not polarized, I just can’t recognise US capacitor symbols as easily as UK. Sorry! But thanks for the image, I will have a squint.

1 Like
#1297

How does the PI header soldering look? Any bridges between pins?

Want to guess it was just a bum cap but looks pretty toasty and might have gotten too much voltage.

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#1298

I don’t see any.

IMG_5703
IMG_57034032×3024 1.81 MB

#1299

Hmmm it’s looking alright there. If you set up another one, keep us updated!

1 Like
#1300

Have you taken a multimeter / continuity tester to the board at all? It’d be worth confirming that 5V and GND aren’t bridged, for starters.

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#1301

I don’t see any bridges, but potentially the opposite, a few pins that look like they are barely making contact, especially in the bottom row.

1 Like
#1302

I see 1-2 Ohm resistance between GND and 5V. Is it normal, how much do you expect?

#1303

I got a new screen and another header and soldered it. It fit perfectly and my norns shield is working perfectly now. Turned out I had soldered the header on the wrong way on my first screen, so the pins were to big for the female header on the shield. I ended up breaking my first screen trying to make it fit.

So now they did fit as expected, but thank you for looking through datasheets for me.
Turned out I was culprit of the problems here.

2 Likes
#1304

Set multimeter to the beepy continuity mode and see if 5v and Gnd are making a connection

1 Like
#1305

Too bad my multimeter is very simple and doesn’t have continuity mode. Can I get by with resistance measurement or should I get a better one?

#1306

Looks like a short somewhere.

1 Like
#1307

really? I’ve not met a cheap multimeter without a continuity mode, unless it’s a really old one. What sort are you using? Send us a picture?

1-2 ohm doesn’t sound right to me, because that sounds like a very low resistance, ie, a short. And if you’ve shorted 5V and GND, then yup, you might well blow a power filtering cap.

1 Like
#1308

Found the issue. I’ve messed up my order and installed wrong parts on C9 and C7. Inductors instead of capacitors :man_facepalming:. So, I’m shortening 5V and GND with an inductor. Ok I think I’ve learned something :slight_smile:

The multimeter without beep

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