#1476

Oh wow! Thanks for the info that soldering is no longer required. DOH. I guess I should came here first for info before Reverb.com. LOL. Well, at least the one I purchased looks cool! :slight_smile: hopefully the unit from Reverb gets situated and I get my first shield back in good repair. fingers crossed! thanks for the help & info!

2 Likes
#1477

It usually helps to find a linked datasheet on the product page, to decrypt what the complex model number means: https://www.bourns.com/docs/Product-Datasheets/PEC11R.pdf

In this case, the difference between the recommended PEC11R-4015F-N0024 and PEC11R-4025F-N0024 (which is one of the options in Digikey site) is, that the recommended one has a 15mm long shaft (ā€œ4015ā€) and the other one has a 25mm shaft (ā€œ4025ā€).

So if you buy that, youā€™ll get encoders that have 1 centimeter longer shafts, so they will protrude out of the front panel more (unless you cut them a bit with a small metal saw). Electronically they are identical. Or if you find some PEC11R-4020F-N0024, youā€™ll get an otherwise identical part with 5 mm longer shaft than the recommended one, which will protrude just a tiny bit more than the recommended part.

You can also replace a model with ā€œFā€ in it with equal ā€œKā€ model, which means knurled (ā€œrippledā€) shaft instead of flatted (D-shape) shaft. That means youā€™d have to find and buy different kind of knobs for the encoders for them to fit, but again, electronically it will work identically.

2 Likes
#1478

I have a suspicion thatā€™s not going to be the case, post-Brexshit.

#1479

Also, I didnā€™t realise thatā€¦ how come? Surely Phil just used the board files as-is from GitHubā€¦

#1480

For once, no, thatā€™s OK. All my orders were already INCOTERMS DDP (delivered duty paid i.e. they collected VAT and handled all the customs via the courier). Theyā€™ve said theyā€™ll be collecting VAT for all UK customers from 22 December, but I think that will only be a change for VAT-registered business purchasers, as they were already collecting VAT on private purchases.

I fear the days of cheap resistors from Tayda are over, however.

#1481

The original layout had left and right reversed. Later revisions fixed it, but the board I bought from Pusherman must still have been the older version.

1 Like
#1482

Wow, thank you so much for this detailed reply. Very helpful. <3

1 Like
#1484

Any midi controllers plugged into the USB ports?

#1486

Hi,

I finished a norns shield build tonight and an getting an error on startup.
Build consists of shield 190909 and a raspberry pi 3 b+

After the splash screen the display says ā€œerror: SUPERCOLLIDER FAILā€
Menu interface works, wifi connects, just no audio generation

I have tried two norns builds, 200216 and 201202.
I updated 200216 via wifi and also took a fresh copy of 201202 for github. All gave the error.

Other suggestions in the monome help was to retsrt sc in maiden - this was not possible as sc was not connected/connectable in maiden.

Other suggestions in threads here are hardware related - Iā€™ll reflow the board tomorrow evening, but any suggestions of other things to try before reflowing the solder work?

Thanks

#1487

hi there- this was an issue i was having too as of late. strangely enough the 3 button hold gesture > power off seemed to work for me. i recommend perhaps digging around this topic a little bit.

if not aware, by 3 button gesture i mean hold down K1, K2, K3 simultaneously until it navigates you to the menu. (also called ā€˜vulcan death gripā€™)

#1488

Howdy! Sounds like hardware. Sometimes I will get a SC fail after an update, a SYSTEM->RESET usually fixes the issue.

If not, start here:

Check for bridged pins on the audio codec first. May be hard to see bridges if there is any flux hanging around so clean it with some high % iso alcohol. Proper light and magnification will make it easy.

Next, check that the crystal is seated properly and there is not too much solder. Sometimes the pads can bridge under the crystal if there is a big solder flow. If so, hit it with some solder wick.

Reflowing the Pi header pin by pin also can clear up issues. Put a tiny bit of pressure from your iron on each pin as you are going to ensure that the joint isnā€™t cold.

Good luck! Keep us posted :v:

1 Like
#1489

gave up trying to fix my norns shield encoder problem, just put together the spare board I had and plopped it on the same rpi as before. booted it up and am getting ā€œSUPERCOLLIDER FAILā€. tried resetting and updating, but it persists. figured from this other thread maybe this is the problem:

was very nervous soldering that chip with itā€™s teeny lil legs so I used very little solder, does this probably mean I need to give it some love? just figured Iā€™d ask here first, in case Iā€™m misunderstanding what @tehn is sayingā€¦

#1490

Ya give it some love and try to get as close of a view as possible.

Clean it up with some alcohol and take your time. With a soft tweezer touch you can see if any of the pins wiggle a bit and might not be connected.

I would reflow what solder is already on there while applying a bit of top pressure to the pins before adding more solder.

1 Like
#1491

image
image3024Ɨ4032 1.62 MB

hmm not a wiggle on it, went over all the pins pushing down and added solder where i couldā€¦ anything else here look suspect to anyone?

#1492

Next, check that the crystal is seated properly and there is not too much solder. Sometimes the pads can bridge under the crystal if there is a big solder flow. If so, hit it with some solder wickā€¦

It was exactly this. One side of the crystal has big blobs of solder, the other side looked ok but was not making contact with the board.
I removed the crystal, even up the solder and reapplied.

Everything is working well now, thanks for the help

2 Likes
#1493

I had a similar issue, my supercollier fail was related tot eh crystal not being seated correctly. 2 of the 4 pads were soldered well (no wiggle) when I removed it to have a look it was clear only two were soldered

2 Likes
#1494

donā€™t forget to check the header to the pi as well.

1 Like
#1495

Hard to tell from picture but I would tune up the caps surrounding the codec and take a look at the crystal.

If you hit a brick wall, I am also in LA and would be happy to tune up the board for you. I can also take a look at the one with the encoder issue.

Shoot me a DM if that sounds good :v:

1 Like
#1496

I put together a Shield from scratch. I got all the smd parts down, soldered up the headers, plugged in & am getting nothing on the screen. Iā€™m sure thereā€™s something Iā€™m missing.

So far, Iā€™ve reflowed the all the headers and checked continuity between the screen and the RPI. All good there. I made sure the screen is getting the 3.3v and thatā€™s okay.

Not sure if it helps diagnose, but when I plug in, the RPIā€™s red LED lights up, green blinks like itā€™s thinking about something, then settles down to small blinks while red stays lit.

EDIT - Plugged the HDMI into my TV and got the colored splash screen which means boot failure. Okay. Iā€™m using a Samsung 32Gb SD. Iā€™ll try reflashing it next.

#1497

This sounds normal.

Not necessarily. The HDMI output is disabled in the Shield kernel, so youā€™re not going to get console or anything on a plugged in monitor.

After you boot up, you can try to connect over SSH using Ethernet if you have a computer with that available. That will at least tell you if the system is running and you can run some command line tests like dmesg to see if the display is initializing, etc.