#327

Is there a service* that will put together a Mouser/Digikey cart for you based on a project BOM+description? I always get hung up picking out the right spec components and end up with one capacitor the size of my fist (but it’s the right value!) or some such… this is why I often prefer kits if building DIY.

• if not, there’s a business idea/side hustle for someone in lockdown!

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#328

It’s daunting at first but if you’re gonna keep on with DIYing it’s worth learning to navigate mouser! There are a couple tricks that can help you. For instance, if you know a similar component (say, you have a .047 uF film cap in your cart and you also need a .01 film uF cap) click on the one you know and under “specifications” start checking boxes for things that seem like they will match (category: film caps, termination style, etc.) and then click Show Similar below (additionally, selecting the same Series is an easy way to guarantee the one you pick will also fit). What you’re doing is finding other components that that are similar but you can then pick the value you want to change (capacitance!). After a while this becomes clearer.

Also, I’ve seen mouser carts provided where the manufacturer will include exact numbers of parts needed and it is actually a little cheaper to get MORE of each because it’s usually cheaper to get 10 of something than 7 or 8 of them. If you’re a sicko like me this becomes is a game :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Also, get a hundred 10uF electrolytics caps - there are minimum 2 in pretty much every module :+1:

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#329

One (perhaps) pro tip I would offer is after, you’ve filled a cart with stuff is download the cart as a spreadsheet. Then for future orders just copy the sheet and keep any common components, then simply look for any new parts, add them to the sheet, and then upload as a cart.

I guarantee by the 3rd DIY project you will find that you’re able to flesh out a cart super fast. This is my method and I find it much better than hunting and pecking through their dodgy UX.

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#330

Have you looked at octopart? I’ve browsed a few BOMs on there for various projects, but not used it otherwise.

#331

I would say and buy a 1000 1uf/100n ceramic ones as they are as well very much used everywhere. Btw anyone knows why they are such a popular values?

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#332

Two questions.

  1. What are people’s experiences with newschool battery-powered soldering irons? I was watching some Marco Reps videos and he seems to be big on the TS80/TS100-style irons, which actually look powerful/functional.

Since getting a proper DIY space going I’ve wanted to upgrade my soldering iron game. I have a piece of shit thing I bought from a hardware store when my last one died and I needed to finish a project, and a dinky battery-powered thing, but neither are great. I’ve been looking at a couple different Wellers as those are pretty solid, but wondering if the TS stuff might be a good way to go.

  1. What are people doing for component storage? I’ve got a bunch of little clamshell cases that I’ve used for like 15 years for all my parts/components/hardware/etc…, but now with a more stable space,

I’d like to setup some little drawers and such, but want to find something that’s fairly inexpensive, modular, and accessible. (as in, I want to be able to buy more and add to it with it fitting together, without worrying about having bought from some random vendor etc…). I also don’t have a ton of space that I want to dedicate to this as I don’t have a comprehensive amount of parts etc…

As a point of reference, I’m wanting to kit out the area to the left of this table here (where the gaps in the posters are).

I’m also in the EU, so some of the options/availability isn’t as great in the US, so EU/UK recommendations mucho appreciated!

IMG_0366
IMG_03664032×3024 1.46 MB

5 Likes
#333

A box of banker envelopes, a sharpie, and a discarded dishwasher pod container. Yep.

EDIT: I guess they aren’t called banker envelopes anymore (we used similar envelopes to store safe deposit box keys at a bank I used to work at). Picture and link below.

Caps and diodes in the box on the left. Resistors in the container on the right. The nice thing about the dishwasher pod containers is that they stack nicely with the lids on (and they perpetually smell nice).

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Envelope-Gummed-Office-50162/dp/B000Y50ZD8

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IMG_32223024×4032 947 KB

3 Likes
#334

TS100 irons are great! They are compatible with Hakko T15 tips which gives you so many options and a comfy grip.

I use a Hakko FX-951 as my primary iron on my desk and a TS100 that I bring to work for cable repair. One set of tips. :cowboy_hat_face:

I have seen people running the TS100 with a battery pack. I use some Asus laptop charger I found in a drawer at work.

Just needs a little 3d printed bit to mount the Hakko grip (looks like this)

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2 Likes
#335

Can anyone vouch for the MidiBox? I’ve seen it for years just don’t know of anyone actually using one. The MidiBox SeqV4+ looks amazing but I’m not sure in practice.

#336

I’ve soldered a few projects with the TS80P and it works well (both smt and thicker jack wiring). It is recommended to use a tip with mass (mine is TS-BC02). Custom firmware can be installed for a better interface and advanced features (some version can apparently play midi). The price is higher then the TS100 but having the option to use a USB powerbank as a supply works for me. I’ve used it for two or three months, so I don’t know how well it will last in use.

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#337

little component drawers for through-hole and random bits, but those fill up fast.

No joke, for SMD, I have a ringbinder, with document wallets; a section per component type, and then a wallet per decade, with the strips still in bags inside them. It works. Oh, and I probably should have a section per part-size as well, but I mainly use one part size at the minute.

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#338

Interesting! I guess the same would apply for the TS80P (both use the “headphone jack”-style connection?). (Oh, it looks like it’s the element thing itself, which I guess you can swap out on the TS80-style tips?)

That’s the one I was thinking. Kind of weird naming convention and stuff.

Where did you TS-users buy yours? I see a ton of different options on Aliexpress, so wondering if there’s an “official” shop for them.

#339

I don’t think the manufacturer Miniware has an official shop. I approached them with a question concerning the usb-c powersupply which was bundled in the package I was interested in (at the time only US plugs were available) and they directed me to an Aliexpress vendor. The ts80 and ts80p tips are the same (“headphone jack” -style) but ts100 is different.

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#340

Could someone hint me to an easily EU available equivalent to an LM324NG quad opamp for my echo matic?
https://easyeda.com/MattDGTL/echo-matic-new

Should other Versions of that chip work just fine?

#341

The pin outs for quad op-amps seem to be the same.
Any other LM324 op-amp will certainly be pin compatible. The LM324NG is now obsolete and I’d try replacing it with a LM324N, which is available from any electronic components supplier for about €0.50.

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#342

Any advice for using this circuit to drive a spring reverb tank instead a tape?
Maybe changing out resistor or sth. The tank should be 800 ohms

#343

Anybody around here have experience building midi capable solenoid drumming devices?

#344

I use a ring binder with pokemon card sleeve thingys for my resistors. Has been really good thus far :+1:t2:

2 Likes
#345

Does anyone have experience with DC motors?

I’m thinking about adding a simple/compact motor to my arc turntable thing:
ae3ad5e590a44986c21a51eb7ca81991107b5437_2_666x500

Where rather than using the delta values and virtualizing “movement” once you stop touching the platter (so when you stop moving, the playback continues as normal), I would instead have a small DC motor that’s coupled to the underside of the printed part:
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Conceptually that kind of makes sense to me, I just have very little experience with DC motors.

The arc knob is pretty light so it doesn’t need to be too powerful, I’m just thinking that when you touch the record to “stop” it, that it would either have to start letting the belt underneath start slipping (so something that has some give to it (rope/string?)) OR having a DC motor that doesn’t mind getting physically stopped.

Anyone have any thoughts for this kind of thing?

2 Likes
#346

Anyone a recomendation for a small pcb but nice display Oscilloscope?

1 Like