Yes. Each synth/case has a ground jack.
Usually, I connect this to ground on the power distro board if there’s space.
Then just connect the ground jacks of each synth you’re using together with banana cables.
Yes. Each synth/case has a ground jack.
I discovered last weekend that the Soma Lyra 8 is available as a DIY project which got me excited - I remembered watching the Sonic State and being really intrigued.
After doing a bit more research I’m a little on the fence. It does seem a really unique piece of kit that would be a fun build, however I’m a little worried it’s just too weird/experimental to ever fit into my music in a meaningful way.
Does anyone have any recommendations of other unusual DIY projects that might suit better? I own a standard mono, poly and some eurorack gear so I’m really searching for something completely different to build.
You cant get more nusual than the Ciat Lonbarde paper circuits…
Do you mean ‘completely different’ as in form factor? You say the Lyra 8 is weird/experimental for your music, so I’m wanting to understand what you’re going for in terms of completely different yet not weird/experimental.
Not trolling you, genuinely asking!
Yeah I think the form factor and hands-on interface of the Lyra is what intrigued me and struck me as ‘different’, but the musical output I’ve heard in demos hasn’t quite grabbed me. Although I’m thinking I could build the Lyra 4 as a slightly cheaper option - purely for the fun of the build! Was also thinking I could try and integrate a spring reverb into the case and just embrace it as a crazy drone machine.
Hopefully mentioning the Lyra might bring up a discussion of other interesting projects that might have passed me by!
I am currently in the process of building a Lyra 8, just waiting for the circuit boards to arrive.
At first I considered building the Lyra 4 to save money but quickly realised that the amount of effort it takes to order all the parts really justifies getting a few extra parts to build the Lyra 8 instead. If you take ordering from different places and the shipping costs involved into account it is really less economical to build the Lyra 4 in my opinion.
Getting a faceplate and enclosure done for the Lyra 8 will naturally increase the overall cost but I still think it is worth considering the Lyra 8 if saving money is the only reason why you are attracted to the Lyra 4.
Essentially having two Lyra 4s in the Lyra 8 also greatly improves the instrument’s flexibility.
I’m building a Lyra-8 at the moment. I’m not sure i would call it a fun build. I depends if you really like building and designing faceplates and a case. Also there are some unusual choices in the design how al the controls are mounted and how wires are connected to the circuit board. But i’m really looking forward to using it in my music.
I (somewhat) regrettably opted for the Lyra-4 (shoulda went all in on an 8). Started soldering resistors and things but I will echo that this looks to be a tricky build largely due to bare bones documentation and some considerations regarding the touch sensitive screws (mounting them in particular). Lots of jumper wires too.
If the sound of the Lyra doesn’t grab you this probably won’t either but looks like a fun build
There are also some full voice/standalone eurorack format projects - power and case not included of course.
Great insight all, thanks! I’ve been reading around and the documentation is certainly not as in depth as some other projects I’ve done. I agree on the point of it being more efficient to just go for the 8 - I’ll mull it over for a while and see! What sort of prices were people paying for a front panel to be made?
I’ve seen the Doepfer and the NLC DIY standalone projects - would be interested to hear of any others!
I really like that uTone! Are there some people in the NL or EU that would want to share an order to save on shipping? Shipping is the same price as the PCB.
I am still looking for sollutions for the front panel. Where I live no one really seems keen to do something out of the ordinary, not that the lyra panel design is anything strange. I think it has more to do with quantities but the only place that seemed to be remotely keen told me I had to pay a minimum of roughly $100 for them to be interested in doing it.
If anyone has a sollution for this I would love to hear. Problem is I live in a place where shipping almost always turns out to be too expensive.
For the box/enclosure I am getting someone from my local woodworking association to build a box for me, where they seem to be more driven by the passion for their craft than anything else. That way the enclosure becomes a key feature of the instrument too.
The Meng Qi / Peter Blasser Rollz-5 is something I’ve always wanted to build.
There seems to be a couple of places where pcbs are available if you are interested in the Ciat Lonbarde way of things and don’t want to get into paper circuits.
The NLC would be my choice
Frequency Central has this http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/?page_id=1944 though this is really a stepping stone to getting into modular IMO. Also, more challenging, is this, which I believe is based on Serge designs http://synthcube.com/cart/cgs-west-coast-mini-pcbs-panel-bundle-32hp
Just remembered this, too, which looks nice http://www.eowave.com/diy-kits/diy-weather-drones/
I’m looking to make a 1u manual gate module. 4x manual gates, nothing complicated. I’m using the Doepfer DIY manual gate as a reference, but confused about power. Do I just need the 12v and GND pins from the bus board? What do I do with the other wires on the ribbon cable?
These are passive, you shouldn’t need power at all!
Gates have to be active. A manual gate sends voltage as long as you press the trigger/button.
And @philmaguire: yes, you only need V+ and GND. If you use a ribbon cable and one of these standard headers you just let the unused unconnected.
probably a better practice to leave those pins unconnected on the circuit board, yeah? that way you don’t have to worry about keeping track of a special ribbon cable.
I reckon so. My plan is to make it on stripboard and use a regular 10-pin connector, but only pins for +12v and GND. My brain can work that out more easily
@bmoren They’re active gates, taking power from the +12v rail.
whoops, I thought you were making mutes! my mistake!