Doboz offers a 4u version.

Having seen this update I’m considering getting a couple of 4u built for my Easel.

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Nooooo!

I wish that would stay. I use it all the time.

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Anyone know where firmware v3.1 can be found?

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Anyone know if the TSNM is able to send un-quantised CV much like pressure points?

it does not…I remember them telling me the dac resolution was too high and would require alot of knob turning.

Yeah this is a deal breaker for me. Very confusing removal.

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umm… thanks.

just a thought if i sent the CV out to an attenuator would that perhaps make the resolution higher with in a smaller range? or would the CV out values just become a smaller range within the quantised CV values?

Thinking about replacing my 218r with a couple of these for my Easel. Are they chainable?

Not, currently.

The second one. You’d just be scaling down the note values to the range you define with the attentuator. The relationship between steps would remain as they were set on the device. The device is intended to play notes. You’ll want to stick to something like the MengQi Voltage Memory or Pressure Points if you want arbitrary voltages. Alternatively, you could write your own firmware for TSNM, the source code is available, but that would be a lot of work for what I imagine you are trying to do.

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news about public-stable release of new firmware?

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I got it from this page, but it didn’t really work out well for me. As it says in the instructions, you loose the DAC calibration, but then for me the calibration procedure doesn’t work on v3.1. In the end I went back to v3.0. It’s a shame because the manual makes it seem like quite a nice update. Maybe others have had better luck?

How did he do this? The 4u panel uses +/- 15v and the 3u +/-12 and 4u Serge is at +/-12. I’m looking at buying a 4u used and not building from scratch. Want to use an existing 12v power supply.

Schematics for both are available. For the 12V version there are only a few different values for resistors a quick scan seems to reveal.

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^^^^^^^^ what @Shiftr said.

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i’m in the process of building a tsnm and made the mistake of jumping ahead and soldering the leds closer to the circuit board then they need to be. does anyone have any advice for de-soldering a part like a matrix led (859-LTP-747KR) to adjust it? (i’m not the most skilled soldererrer and i’ve tried solder wick and a solder sucker)

with the number of solder points, i just am having a hard time wrapping my head around getting them all warm enough to adjust without ruining the part as i don’t have back up ones.

A heat gun.
Or one really big blob of solder that reaches all pins.

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It’s a little expensive for what it is, but ChipQuick is really helpful for removing mistakes; it’s a metal compound with higher heat retention and a lower melting point. The intention is for using it to remove more expensive components that you want to reuse, but I don’t need that often, so I also use it for other silly mistakes. I soldered some header pins on the wrong side of a board, and I recently used it to get them free.

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I recently got chipquick to do some SMT rework and it was very useful, but could still be tricky for someone with less rework experience.

for the LED matrices, brute force may be the safest solution - cut them out and extract the pins, take a dremel to the faces if you have to so you can get at the pins. Pull them out with tweezers and clear the holes with solder wick. Personally I’d rather replace the displays than a hard to replace PCB.

good luck!

I politely disagree. I find ChipQuick to be quite easy to use: melt it on, get it quite hot, and then you can pull things away with a fair amount of ease. My main point of concern is that the brute force method can tear out the trace in the PCB - a thing I have done! You cannot fix that if it happens, and you’re more likely to do it with less experience. Again, just my two cents, but you can save the part and reduce risk of damage with ChipQuick.

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