#82

I used this one:

Note : it is not blue!

#83

quick question. the instructions say to cut a trace on the bottom of the teensy board. which one exactly?

#84

I cut this one — no experience though and haven’t tested it! :slight_smile:

https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/learn_tutorials/5/5/4/teensy-jumper.png

1 Like
#85

Dang!

10 Likes
#86

I’m in the process of building a couple Prizma+. Had to order a some.more parts due to an error in the BOM, so keep an eye on the parts when you are ordering. Hopefully will finish them tomorrow.

2 Likes
#87

ah i’ve been very curious about that one, keep us posted with your thoughts plz!

1 Like
#88

Finished these (Prizma+) up today after having to reflow the front panel mount LEDs. The manual makes it seem really intense and confusing until you have it working and in front of you then it becomes rather straightforward. Really cool little sequencer with a LOT of modes and options in a really small space.

One thing I don’t like is I missed a jack with a cable and hit the edge of an LED and shorted it out and rebooted it or my whole rig. Thinking maybe nail polish would seal up the solder… Anyone with thoughts on that?

1 Like
#89

Nail polish does seem like a fine idea, just make sure it isn’t metallic or anything that could conduct! I was curious if the second version with SMD LEDs on the panel would cause any practical issues like this, sort of a bummer that it can since the jacks are so close to the LEDs.

#90

Ordered the parts for a TSNM last week. PCB came yesterday, so I spent the next 10 or so hours furiously soldering.

Sadly my Teensy was DOA, so I have another one arriving tomorrow.

Thanks to @stripes for pointing me to @shellfritsch, and the later for his Octopart BOM - which was a very helpful starting point! Also, thanks @polyoptics! I think you asked a lot of the most obvious questions that I definitely had. :laughing:

One question for those of you who’ve tackled this:

IMG_0372
IMG_0372.JPG2448×3264 1.59 MB

My encoder is just a smidge too tall for my tastes aesthetically. I did the nut-spacer-thing the build guide asked for and squished the hell out of the encoder to get it as low as I could. Did I get weird results, is this particular encoder weirdly tall, or is it just awkwardly tall by design?

If this reminds you that you wanted to tackle this project, here is an updated BOM that as of my purchase had everything available. YMMV. It’s a lot of work if you’re rusty or new, but it seems like a good beginner SMD project (it was my first)! The documentation is very good, and board layout is very clear.

https://octopart.com/bom-tool/45OT0qq0

Post-Shower Edit: I forgot 4 things that are not in the BOM:

Knob and Cap for Knob (the same one used in the reference build):


The cap looks pretty flash if you paint it gold, as I have. I also think a white cap would look nice. I have a couple of spares too.

Also:


Additionally, you need a 16-pin power cable, which most modules do not use.

1 Like
#91

I’ll have to take a look at mine in the morning, but if I remember right, mine is not quite as tall, but it could be my choice if knobs. I think there is that much thread sticking up above the faceplate.

edit: yes, I have a shorter knob on my encoder, and a nut both above and below the faceplate, but the threaded portion of the encoder body does stick up that far. The knob I am using is not as tall as that Cliff knob. Is it seated all the way? The skirt looks like it would fit over the threaded portion without catching.

1 Like
#92

A friend of mine that has built some more complex diy kit for me is offering these built for $280 (USD) if anyone is interested! https://www.instagram.com/p/BktO-xKA5fe/?taken-by=isohedra

3 Likes
#93

Thanks for the response! I found a good spacer to hold up the board a sniff higher, so it’s looking better. :+1:

Happy to add that with a new Teensy in hand, my unit lives!

Gonna take me a spell to learn the menu, but it’s pretty shallow, so I think it will work out for me.

4 Likes
#94

is anyone experiencing that randomly one touch plate becomes unresponsive for a few seconds, then comes back after a few touches around the rest of the plates? this has been happening to me every once in a while and at first i thought it was from a specific plate but it has now happened with most of them at what seems to be completely random moments.

#95

Yes! I’ve had this happen many times already, but also inconsistently. Sometimes repeatedly tapping the plate will clear it; other times it won’t.

I’ve been wondering if it’s a debounce issue? Adjusting the setting doesn’t produce very tangible results though. :thinking:

#96

that’s what i thought as well, although it’s a tedious problem to troubleshoot. pretty sure my debounce setting was at 0 the first time i went into the settings. i’m gonna bring it up to 5 and leave it there for a while and see what happens.

#97

0 is very probably too low, so I bet you’ll see some tangible improvement.

#98

If I ever break down and put together a controller skiff, this is a strong contender to replace the Melody Mill as my finger interface of choice.

Though I have to admit, I vastly prefer the aesthetic of the 4U version…

6 Likes
#99

Yeah me too, looks so much more elegant in the 4u version

#100

That just started happening to me for the first time last week. :man_shrugging:t2:

#101

i think it has been happening for me as well