Rainmaker has internal swing and several other taps displacement settings, but never tried to send an already swung clock
I would think the Tapographic delay from 4ms is specifically suited to this kind of purpose. What might also help is to just set the delay to a quarter note equivalent and let the swung material be the swing in the delay.
Definitely the tapographic.
I wonder if this could be accomplished in Teletype by averaging the time between pulses over a longer period of time (maybe 16-20 pulses instead of 3-4)?
i was thinking the same thing. maybe triggering TR 1 on a given BPM and delaying TR 2 by a subdivision of that BPM could accomplish a swing-y interval?
The impression I get about Loquelic (based on about 5 minutes of playing with it at Knobcon in 2017) is that it’s similar to working with a West Coast complex oscillator – as in, there are sweet spots at “friendly” frequency ratios as long as modulation intensity isn’t too extreme, and familiarity with the module makes those relatively easy to find. Is that accurate?
I kind of want to try one again, even though I’ve been in a “get rid of excess VCOs” phase and I’ve also wound up selling every Noise Engineering module I’ve owned (Ataraxic Iteritas, Cursus, BIA, Manis…) not because I didn’t like the sound, but because it either didn’t fit or didn’t feel necessary.
I think the problem here is that the distance between pulses with a swung clock are not the identical. With sixteenth swing, the distance between the sixteenth note and following eight note is shorter the higher the swing is set, so you’d need a delay that copies this rhythmic behavior. From reading the manual it seems like that’s what the Tapographic delay is specialised in. But I’m also going to check out the d0, thank you all for your recommendations! Never thought I’d have the need for a delay that swings until today
This could definitely work if the delay wouldn’t try to average the time between pulses, like the Echophone does
I would think a Noise Engineering oscillator is an excellent pair for Rings, feeding the resonator with a limitless array of excitations/hits.
I did think this…sadly it would be replacing Rings not accompanying it
I have had an echophon and a tapographic. I think what you are talking about is clocking the delay, literally, from your swung clock. The echophon turns that into a really nuts warble because it’ll be constantly trying to average the speed (as you have noted).
I believe (but I will have to check) that the tapographic will also do that if you try to clock it using your swung clock. But if you just set the loop length of the tapographic using a tap (or a different divided non-swung clock) you can then insert additional taps at swung beats or at whatever interval you like. You’ll still probably want to have the overall loop set at some multiple of the bar you are swinging.
And as others have noted if you set the loop at some multiple of the bar, the delay will probably still sound pretty swung because you are feeding it swung pulses. (So, if you just set the loop/time on the echophon by ear, you might get a pretty good result, too).
I was sold on the LI after hearing it used to fairly serious effect in a techno set at the Leeds Modular Meet in 2017 (Blue Wolf Se7en if you want to hunt on youtube). With LI, Mangrove, Dixie, Rubicon and DPO, I think Mangrove would probably be the first to go.
You are right and I misread the question. I was thinking you wanted to get a steady clock out from the Digitakt’s swung beat output.
I’m very new to modular synth and slowly building my system, and I just got a Befaco output module v3 today so I can actually hear what I’m doing in both ears. I haven’t used my system in a while because it’s winter where I am (Southwestern Ontario, Canada) and quite dry in my apartment, to the point that my poor cat squints every time I pet her because I end up shocking her more often than not. I often get zapped touching various other things that aren’t the cat, too.
I know I could get a humidifier, and I am considering it, but I first wanted to ask if there is actually a risk of that static electricity damaging my modules in any way. If yes, I’m curious to know what other people do to lessen the risk or prevent it from happening altogether. We all know how much these little things cost and at this point, with so few pieces in my system, I’d hate to lose one to something preventable.
Thanks very much.
Thanks for moving this to the correct place! I am new.
Well. So far I haven’t damaged any synth gear, thankfully. I’ve crashed my ER-301 a couple of times (Brian posted a fix for a not-very-well-grounded encoder, which I need to do) as well as my spouse’s computer (once just from brushing against the back of her leather chair). And I have destroyed two computer keyboards and three mice in the past from static shocks.
When sitting at the desk where I keep my gear, the first thing I do is grab the metal pipes that serve as legs for my desk. That seems to help. But I still do occasionally get surprising shocks from the connector to my headphones, for instance.
Good power supplies, busboards, and maybe some extra ground wires are all a good idea with modular.
Maybe not so cool, but this could be a cheap alternative to those who want to be extra safe.
Hi Starthief, and thank you for the info and replying so quickly. I have a 4ms Row Power power supply (30 or 40—my stuff is still put away but it’s one of those), no busboards, but I am using the ribbon that came with the 4ms power module. I see what adrianf has posted here as well, which kind of answers my question as to how to go about using grounding wires. Would you also recommend something like this, or do you have another kind of grounding technique in mind? Thank you again!
This looks like a really good option…thank you! I have no problem looking uncool, as my main goal is to not fry my stuff.
I think these are a great idea, and I had no idea they existed.
I wouldn’t fret about static too much, though it would be worth paying additional attention when you are reorganizing your case where you might touch components on the PCB’s.