Spent Memorial Day gluing, sanding, screwing this together. I’ve had this project going for like 2 months, but was blocked for a while as I was uncertain where I would get the pieces cut. Some progress and final shots! I feel if I had access to a real shop the case would have been 10x nicer. Overall happy with the outcome!

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This may be a little naive, but I was wondering if there was anyway to “extend” a cases power—

Specifically, I’m a bit bummed that the Make Noise CV bus case I have only has 18 headers – I’d love a handful more (for my modules that aren’t that magical Make Noise 20hp) ; - )

Envisioning a sort of one-to-many adapter that 1U tiles use…not sure if it’s feasible?

You can do that, for example the cables linked below. These particular cables are designed for modules that are closely spaced, but I think there are other options out there.

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You can use one of these, make sure your power supply is up to the task though!

https://4mscompany.com/flyingbus-male.php

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You can easily daisy chain something like a 4ms Bus Stick from one of the power headers from your power supply and get an extra 20 or so connectors. I did that for my Intellijel 7u/84HP case, it works fine. The only potential difference I know of is that if the power supply has some sort of star grounding like the Intellijel one then that will be lost for the extra connectors, but that shouldn’t be an issue (never has been for me). And the MakeNoise one doesn’t have that so I think there wouldn’t be any actual difference for you.

I personally dislike flying bus cables, the 4ms bus stick or something similar is a more elegant solution for this in my opinion unless you just need a couple of extra connectors.

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I ended up building a lid that is just deep enough to cover knobs and latch on for my ply case. Thought folks here might be interested in the update. so far I’m loving this form factor 6U 48hp is just a beautiful balance between restriction/focus and having enough tools to make some fairly complex things. I’ll be interested to see how things change with the ansible on the way to compliment my fresh grid!

I do reccomend for anyone getting started or just trying to build a DIY ply case for the first time that they do the butt-joint method that I did on the lid, it’s far easier than making a mitered box!

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Just out of curiosity, what made you decide to do a shallow lid that doesn’t close patched? Not saying it’s a bad idea but it just goes against what I need a lid for.

Oh and it’s beautiful in its simplicity, well done!

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I was not able to carry on my Intellijel 7U/104HP when flying internationally (return to Athens from Auckland) on Emirates, as it was slightly oversize in the gig bag and definitely overweight full of modules. Emirates will not combine carry on size/weight for two passengers travelling together and have no Musical Instrument Policy. I probably could’ve just rocked up to the gate with it and tried to bring it on board, but I didn’t want to risk having to check it or pay for an extra seat. I ended up buying a Pelican rolling case and packing the Intellijel in amongst my clothing.

I grew up playing around on a rug just like that one, which my mother had on the living room. It was fun being a kid.

Wonderful job on the case.

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Not sure what will go in here yet. I had some ideas, and then I had a wobble as to whether I even want to do that. Anxiety!

Anyhow, 4U60, which feels like it has possibilities for something Easel/“Expensive 0-Coast”-y. Also: lap joints! And some wonkiness. First woodwork in 20+ years.

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This is some really nice work. Could you possibly give the inside dimensions if you get a chance? Looking to build something similar.

My practice revolves around making site specific patches, so I’m pulling my patches every time I move locations anyway so the ability to close patched is not really needed. The lid’s function in this case is just as a protector for when it goes in the back of my car or I’m carrying it to a location to patch.

I wanted to keep the weight down as much as possible, and to be honest, I still think this case is too heavy for my needs and my brain is already turning over plans for a version of it made from lasercut bent aluminum or thin steel.

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I could dig them up, but you’d be better off just ordering the hardware and measuring yourself to get it perfect. It was something near 10 1/2" X 9 14/16", but things likely changed a bit as I tend to measure as I build instead of making a concrete plan first. But if you order rack ends and they are not the same ones I got, it’s totally reasonable that they would be slightly different.

I find the big red power switch extremely satisfying.

Just finished building this acrylic rack. The one I built a year ago was too large for my purposes (this one probably is too?) so I scaled down a little but built in a little wiggle room for possible future development and space below the bottom rack for possible i2c connections. All the acrylic was custom cut, as were the shallow dado cuts for the rails. Still somewhat a work in progress, but happy with it nonetheless. Special thanks to @pulplogic for the 3U+1U+3U brackets.

Things I learned the hard way this go round:
-Acrylic is very sharp, so you might want to have the edges smoothed. I destroyed all my knuckles in process and then smoothed them down.
-Acetone and a sharp blade is the best way to remove e6000 glue
-Acrylic can warp when making super tight connections, so a couple mm’s of extra space was unnecessary

Please ask questions if you wanna go down this road!!


!

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If you want to sell the rackbrute…

siiiiiiiiiiiiiiick. looks amazing.

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I’m thinking about getting one of the 54hp pulp logic cases, does anyone have any experiences with them? Also how do the 1u tiles stack up against the intellijel 1u?

Irwin grips are great! Which corner clamps are these? Great work

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I’ve personally not had the best experience with the Intellijel 7U. It is neat, light and I love the 1U row. But, there are some ergonomic and quality issues which dampen things a little.

I don’t like how the power module & connections are all at the bottom, this often means having to unmount a lot of modules at the bottom to rewire/shuffle modules at the top.

2hp modules (and probably W/) don’t fit so well on the bottom row as the power headers stop them fitting by a couple of MMs.

I find the tilt-able angles a little too shallow to be comfortable.

Finally two of the rails had several threading issues. Intellijel sent me two new strips, but just the other day another screw hole lost it’s thread.

But, it’s a good price and you do get good power from it.

50/50.

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