besides synthracks and pulplogic, are there other good rail/cheek makers out there to check out?

Elby seem well regarded in my neck of the woods

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I have used clicksclocks.de in the past for rails etc. and been very happy with them. They are in Germany, so check the shipping depending on where you are.

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I’ve got one for my Shared System which is sturdy and serves me well. If not for this blasted manufacturing craziness I’m sure I would already have another one. But since I have no idea when we’ll come out of this I’m looking at cheaper options.

Anyone got a somewhat inexpensive way to rig a stand for two MN Skiffs (104hp each)? If it would get a similar angle to the Blued Steel even better. I’m not completely useless with a table saw if need be. Just too lazy to draw up my own blueprints when it boils down to it. Thanks!

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Wondering if anyone can ID this case Hélène Vogelsinger has here? It looks like such a great portable 6u case.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFFmjmghqi_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

looks like erica synths travel case to me?

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Ah, that’s it!

Lines knows all :slight_smile:

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RE rails - I’ve seen some DIY cases built with threaded inserts used as rails, mounted directly to wood, presumably to save a few bucks (works out to about $20-30 / row I think). Aside from appearance, is there any reason not to do this?

not an expert at eurorack cases, but I’m guessing it would depend heavily on how the threaded inserts are mounted to the case.

are they backed by wood and screwed/glued in place?

I’d suggest getting the frame; two rails plus ears. Just having the ears cut to precision justifies buying the rails as well IMHO. I have build my case measuring directly with the frame and it worked out nicely. 104HP 7U for a little over 100€.

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Yep that looks really nice, I like the fish! I was thinking more of rails without ears, but I do like the idea of having the structure of the ears…

@karst - The ones I saw looked backed by wood, probably glued on or maybe just seated in a groove. I don’t know if I’d go that route for a build myself, was asking mostly out of curiosity.

Ears help with precision, if you can work with it, you should be safe :slight_smile:

I think that most glues might be a slight concern on hot/humid day, especially since some modules can produce a decent amount of heat themselves.

Indeed there are M2 out there: M2 Eurorack Rails « Art For The Ears

One for people with case plus a lid: what do you think is the shallowest you could make a lid, while still being able to close patched? 60mm?

I would say something around there. My lid is 66mm interior depth and it’s pretty close to where I wonder if it’s bad for the jacks and cables if there’s too much spaghetti inside. I think it’s fine, but I wouldn’t want to go any shallower.

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You’re quickly becoming my case consultant :wink:

Is your case from Clank? I’ve decided to order from their next batch, after seeing the measurements of a few other brands was thinking of slimming down the lid a little.

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my bill is on its way :wink:

my case is from clank and I’m very pleased with it, Andrea seems great and their power is really good — the new boards have pull up resistors for i2c built in I think :eyes: I see the erica one is listed as 59mm, I feel like erica synths probably has tested that and determined its fine, so I would trust them over my own paranoia :stuck_out_tongue: that being said, it does depend on the cables — if I’m using the hosa cables they’re very flexible and I don’t worry too much, but I have had braided cables that feel a bit more snug. You could probably lose 7mm on the lid and the case and not have any issues, but I’m not sure it would make that much of a difference in overall size or weight.

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I have the 50mm one from Intellijel for their Palette case and it’s definitely too short, then I have the 70mm from Intellijel for their Performance case and it’s better. If I’m honest though I’d like something closer to 80 or even 90mm. Obviously at some point it’s impractically tall lol… But yeah I get worried sometimes about the jacks on the 70mm one although it does definitely work

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My DIY case has 55mm lid, with braided cables and closes fine. With non braided cables I think you could go 50mm.

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