Eurorack cases/racks/stands. Ask questions, share experiences

[ludvista29]

Oh this is pretty nice! I’m assuming the intellijel 1U’s don’t fit this right…

[b_w]

Correct. PulpLogic “style” tiles only. I’m not sure it’s a sizing issue (isn’t 1U a standardized size??)…i believe it’s a power issue, though I could be mistaken. His tiles are pretty inexpensive though, for what it’s worth

[barnjazz]

intellijel 1Us are a little bit shorter than pulplogic, so it’s not a perfect fit:

[not my photo, taken from the internet]

i believe the issue stems from the rails having/not having little lips on the outside - much hay has been made of this issue online. i’ve never actually tried mounting an intellijel 1U on pulplogic rails, but i don’t think i’d want to patch something that isn’t anchored on the bottom.

[b_w]

Good call. Reason tells me 1.75" (1/3 of 5.25") IS 1U but i guess a pint’s not a pound the world around.

[wm.wragg]

I’ve got a shallow 6U 56HP Synthracks case you can have if you’re anywhere near Brighton, UK. the bottom is about 43mm deep, and the lid is 50mm deep.

[bmoren]

The whole construction uses mitered joints. To make those mitered joints I ripped the bottom and sides at 45º on a table saw and also cut the sides sides at 45º saw before gluing.

As for the rounded corners, this is just sanding with an orbital sander with 80 or 150grit to smooth over after gluing. It’s really a way to hide my slightly mis-measured miter cuts.

Finish procedure is 150grit sanding, coat of wipe on poly, 220grit sanding, coat of wipe on poly, 220grit sanding, final coat of wipe on poly.

Here are some other images which should help clarify somewhat:

I suppose that I should note that cutting miters on a table saw is a somewhat intermediate to advanced table saw cut as ideally you run a second spoil board against the fence so that you can make percice cuts with out the miter edge sneaking underneath the fence.

[soggybag]

I really want one of these and a battery for summer. Though I’m having a hard time picturing when I would have the time to make it worth the investment.

[infovore]

aha, gotcha! that all makes sense. my current box is half-lap joints, and I think I’m going to lap a thinner base. (It’s been a good project for learning my woodwork tools and processes).

[bmoren]

Lap joints would have made this process MUCH easier! I burned way more time that I wanted to perfecting the miters. the corners look nice, but it took forever.

I’m likely going to go make a lid today and maybe I’ll give the lap joint approach a go?!

[Lemmy]

Here are two cases I built, both designed to be tiltable:

Both were cut with a laser cutter, but I used lap joints on the 9U case instead of finger joints.
The top 3U of the 9U case is hinged, so the angle is adjustable.

[taylor]

I’m in the process of building a desktop case inspired by the MDLR cases. It’s been a long process, yet to be glued / drilled together!

[grey]

I had a Rackbrute setup like this briefly - 3u on top, 6u on bottom. That’s an underrated configuration, IMO.

[Lemmy]

Yeah, I started with a more conventional 9U cabinet design, with each 3U at a different angle, but this approach felt more ergonomic and looked less like a piece of furniture. @taylor’s case above looks like a nice variation.

[taylor]

Yeah that seems interesting, I like the idea that this case could be flipped to be used console style or cabinet style. There will be two 1u rows in the case, probably at the base and in the middle.

[taylor]

Spent Memorial Day gluing, sanding, screwing this together. I’ve had this project going for like 2 months, but was blocked for a while as I was uncertain where I would get the pieces cut. Some progress and final shots! I feel if I had access to a real shop the case would have been 10x nicer. Overall happy with the outcome!

[bodydouble]

This may be a little naive, but I was wondering if there was anyway to “extend” a cases power—

Specifically, I’m a bit bummed that the Make Noise CV bus case I have only has 18 headers – I’d love a handful more (for my modules that aren’t that magical Make Noise 20hp) ; - )

Envisioning a sort of one-to-many adapter that 1U tiles use…not sure if it’s feasible?

[DMR]

You can do that, for example the cables linked below. These particular cables are designed for modules that are closely spaced, but I think there are other options out there.

Dual Chain Cable

Quad Chain Cable

[mateo]

You can use one of these, make sure your power supply is up to the task though!

https://4mscompany.com/flyingbus-male.php

[oscillateur]

This may be a little naive, but I was wondering if there was anyway to “extend” a cases power—

Specifically, I’m a bit bummed that the Make Noise CV bus case I have only has 18 headers – I’d love a handful more (for my modules that aren’t that magical Make Noise 20hp) ; - )

You can easily daisy chain something like a 4ms Bus Stick from one of the power headers from your power supply and get an extra 20 or so connectors. I did that for my Intellijel 7u/84HP case, it works fine. The only potential difference I know of is that if the power supply has some sort of star grounding like the Intellijel one then that will be lost for the extra connectors, but that shouldn’t be an issue (never has been for me). And the MakeNoise one doesn’t have that so I think there wouldn’t be any actual difference for you.

I personally dislike flying bus cables, the 4ms bus stick or something similar is a more elegant solution for this in my opinion unless you just need a couple of extra connectors.

[bmoren]

I ended up building a lid that is just deep enough to cover knobs and latch on for my ply case. Thought folks here might be interested in the update. so far I’m loving this form factor 6U 48hp is just a beautiful balance between restriction/focus and having enough tools to make some fairly complex things. I’ll be interested to see how things change with the ansible on the way to compliment my fresh grid!

I do reccomend for anyone getting started or just trying to build a DIY ply case for the first time that they do the butt-joint method that I did on the lid, it’s far easier than making a mitered box!