#869

Anyone have anything they use to stand their rack close to vertical (but not quite) that has a very small footprint on the desk? I’ve got an Intellijel 7U case and I’m using a guitar stand right now. I love that it stands almost straight up, but a lot of my desk is covered now, even though the rack itself doesn’t have a huge footprint. I’m looking for the best compromise of sturdy but leaving desk space free.

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#870

A guitar stand would be my suggestion, that’s what I’m using. I’m not sure how you could get much less of a footprint while it still being safe – of course dependent on the guitar stand model. Sorry, I know I’m not being helpful, beyond maybe suggesting to look into various types of stands :slight_smile:

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#871

Yeah, I think I’m basically in the same place. Maybe I should just look at an electric guitar only stand, so it’s a bit thinner at least. Basically, I’m just working on trying to open up some desk space for a 3U 104HP skiff to sit in front of my main rack :smiley:

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#872

Some mandolin stands are a bit smaller and might work out. Though with the small plastic ones I tried, I needed two for a single Mantis case.

#873

I put “ladder hooks” in my wall when I had limited desk space. That put my case at a nearly vertical position for zero desk cost.

#874

I just built a thin shelf the same length as my case, and then put a hook on the wall that the handle slides over. Also using an Intellijel 7U case. Works perfectly - just make sure you put it at a comfortable height, otherwise your back will not be happy with you.

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#875

Any recommendation for a guitar/mandolin stand that fits perfectly with a Make Noise CV-bus case (steel)? I think the make noise blued steel offering is a bit expensive and it’s hard to find in stock in EU.

#876

I’ve got a cheap amp stand for my case, but sawed it off a little bit.

Something similar like this stand: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/RS4000--on-stage-stands-rs4000-folding-amp-stand-small-100lbs-max

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Edit: It looks like this (sorry for the muddy picture):

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#877

Not sure how well it fits the CV Bus case but K&M Heli 2! Cheap, portable and looks great in “cork”.

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#878

Off topic (feel free to DM) but how do you like the Cosmix? Specifically 1) are you using the aux send and 2) how does it feel “live” performing on it, if you use it like that.

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#879

Oh, got nothing to say really. I got it and plugged it in yesterday and patched this thing up…

#880

I use the black version of that K&M stand with my Make Noise CV Bus Shared System and it works great.

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#881

Thank you @vicimity for this recommendation. I think this will be fantastic on a vintage Halliburton I’m working on.

17580C Stand
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#882

How will you fix the rails into it? I have a Halliburton I’ve been meaning to transform and figuring that out is the only thing holding me back from ordering up some rails and getting started. :slight_smile:

#883

Noob query: I’m new to modular and went with a Koma case. I’m finding it difficult to fit my modules perfectly - little spaces between modules - and this Erica module I got, the screws that came with it arent long enough to reach the rail and Koma screws are wide enough that they dent the Erica holes.

Are these common issues with cases in modulardom?

#884

I like to shock mount the frame using rubber vibration isolators like these:



one of each type with a little foam (or rubber) spacer between them allows you to set the width just right.

For a 21” x 13” Halliburton (very common size) you can fit a 7U 96HP frame if you remove the lock. The brackets are designed for 4 mounting points per side and the 3U+1U+3U and the 1U+3U+3U have the same mount location so the frame can be swapped out or flipped to change the configuration. I’m moving pretty slow on this case because it is old (40’s) and is pretty banged up. I want to clean it up but keep the character of something that has been used for many years. I’ll try and take some pictures and document the process once I get past the basic metal cleanup.

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#885

Super helpful! I’d love to see the in-progess with commentary as you do it.

#886

It is a common problem. There are typically two ways to have cases: sliding nuts (my preference) or a fixed row of holes. I don’t know which kind you have but if it has sliding nuts and the rows are completely filled, remove one or two of the nuts and then you can slide things around so they’re tight.

Every manufacturer has different tolerances for widths etc and it is not uncommon to have a tiny gap between modules. Sometimes you can sort this out by using the tolerance in the screw holes or a module with an oval screw hole to help get things closer.

Also there are some modules which require longer screws. In my own experience Analogue Systems, Recovery Effects, and Bastl (wood) will benefit from longer screws. Sometimes you can get them to stick by pushing hard and catching the thread but it’s easier to have some longer screws on hand.

To make it more insane, there are two types of threads you will encounter, M2.5 and whatever the other one is (I have M2.5 sliding nuts in my systems). All this means that to build your own case you’ll want to make some really boring decisions about:

  1. Sliding or fixed nuts (sliding will let you get the modules to sit together easier but that of course requires more fussing when you install things).
  2. Which threads you will use: M2.5 or whatever the other one is (I ended up with M2.5 by chance because that’s what the sliding nuts were, most modules come with free bolts of whatever the other size is).

Once you’ve made these super boring choices you’ll want to have a bunch of spare bolts and maybe washers and one or two appropriate drivers because sooner or later you’ll lose the one you have.

That’s my experience with this issue anyway. Good luck!

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#887

There may well be M2 rails/nuts out there, but my limited experience has been with M2.5 (Make Noise Skiffs use these) and M3 which I’ve seen on Intellijel cases, Pittsburgh, Monorocket, and Tiptop rails.

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#888

Pittsburgh actually use 4-40 nuts (at least in what I’ve looked at and use) so M3 screws don’t quite fit. You can swap for M3 to use knurlies but I haven’t done it yet myself.

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