8NU8R from Malekko.

I bought one for a sloth for this exact reason. I said similar elsewhere, but a triple sloth with full-wave recitification, offset, and attenuation would never ever ever leave my rack.

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I was thinking exactly this as well, going to write Andrew and see what he would think about someone modifying sloths like that. Might not have enough space for it in 8hp but I bet it could be done in 10…12… Six more mini pots and 3 switches… Maybe even throw some logic in there… The real question, what to call this enhanced triple-super-sloth-party??

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FYI Andrew got back to me in usual fashion, practically minutes! He suggested just making a better 8NU8R with 4 i/o’s in 4-6hp. He’s fine with modifications for personal use but not for re-marketing, which makes sense of course.

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Looks like there’s no official collective noun for sloths (à la gaggle of geese, murder of crows etc), but there are some fun suggestions here: http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/428999.html

If you have some DIY experience then I’d say something like this would be a perfect first PCB design project! Or even just a quick stripboard build. I’d still be happy to make one if you wanted though.

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I’m going to give it a go! I’ve done some pretty complex builds but I’m super new to building from a circuit diagram, first step, learn how to read a circuit diagram! :stuck_out_tongue: breadboard up a test then figure out how designing pcb’s works in Eagle… I might be in over my head but that’s where you learn things, right?

Favorite names from that list: “A snore of sloths.” & “a loiter of slobs”

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Hi guys,

Maybe this has been asked before, but how safe are synths in general and modular systems? Can they catch fire? I am a little bit paranoid and since my collection is getting bigger I am starting to worry a little…

If you‘re concerned because you can feel your modules heat up as you use them, that‘s actually normal for analog modules! And seeing as you‘re using a Doepfer case that features a linear power supply (if I remember correctly), that will add to the heat. The Doepfer cases actually feature a lot of room, so I would not be worried at all. As long as you make sure all modules are properly connected to the busboards and you keep cables out of your case, you should be fine.

I think I’m just concerned with electricity in general, afraid that things could catch fire at night while I’m sleeping and stuff

I would suggest plugging things into a decent power strip / surge protector, then you have a single switch to ensure everything is off.

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I only have my system powered up when working on it.

Electricity doesn’t inherently cause fires. Electical fires are caused by heat created by short circuits or other failures that cause short circuits where the resistance of the materials being heated aren’t destoryed before they create enough heat to cause ignition of the surrounding materials. You’re dealing with fairly low voltage/low amperage devices that have very little risk of fire inherently. Each of your devices are designed to manage their own power against failures.

If you have concens and want to allay them, as noted, make sure your eletrical outlets are in good condition and that your power strips,etc. are in good, working order. (Also make sure your patch cables keep away from outlets, but that’s more of a health risk than a fire risk.)

Which is to say, just because you have a bunch of devices and lot of wires you can see, there’s no significantly increased risk of fire. They’re just standard electical applicances and pose similar risks to the other appliances that you already have around. Most failures merely destory the functionality of the appliance, not the things around it.

Think of it like starting a fire in a cold fireplace; in order for the wood to actually burn, it (and the material around it) has to be heated long enough and to a high enough temperature for there to be enough heat for the material to begin combustion.

If you wish to be :100: certain, just unplug your system when it’s not in use.

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There is/was. XAOC recently delinked everything to do with the expert firmware because they were sick of answering questions about it. The question arose on MW the other day and somebody posted a link, but now MW is down again. :tired_face:

Edit: while we wait, some videos

Edit: FOUND IT! http://xaocdevices.com/manuals/xaoc_batumi_manual_2016.pdf (scroll down to the Appendix)

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I have two cases, sometimes I use them together, sometimes only one at a time. I don’t have the space or desire to put a headphone output module in both cases (even a 2hp one). I’m looking for a standalone box (maybe small guitar pedal sort of size) with stereo inputs that can handle euro levels, a volume control and a headphone output. Even better if it’s battery powered. Does anyone have any ideas? It could totally be DIY if there was something that could be adapted to suit.

I know plenty of mixers handle euro levels okay but I don’t really need the mixing and want it to be as small as possible ideally.

This is pedal-size and handles euro levels:
https://www.hungryrobotmodular.com/output-module

I don’t have any experience with that particular module, but I used their buffered mult prior to installing a 1u and it was solid.

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Interesting! Thanks for the suggestion. Looks quite pricey for what it is but it would definitely do the job.

Just FWIW, I like the newer “Individual Wavebank” firmware a lot. Still has expert mode plus some other useful tricks.

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posted elsewhere but this thread is a lot more ~active~

been having a whole lot of fun with Geode (Just Type Sound mode) and am wondering if it’s possible to output slower LFOs using it. I’ve tried setting tick to a very low value (1, 2), and also various settings for jf.qt to no avail. My goal here is to emulate some of the slower shape/cycle behavior on default JF with the added flexibility (and deliberate ratio control) of geode.

the next step is to run multiple outputs through gated VCAs, then into mac and out into a quantizer for a more deliberate variant of the ‘lfo to quantizer’ model of sequencing.

another potential option would be to use default jf shape / transient mode and run my triggers into jf, but then i don’t get the same level of control over the triggered voltages (due to JF’s sympathetic triggering) or over the ratios between them (left with only default panel settings instead of nice integer division control).

any help with path A would be super appreciated (as it seems to have the fewest hurdles + more control), although there could be options in path B I’m missing…

thanks so much as always :slight_smile:

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The timebase for Geode can be established through two different uses of one command:

JF.TICK clock/bpm

  • clock/bpm : 49 to 255 directly sets tempo to 49-255 bpm
  • clock/bpm : 1 to 48 define how many ticks equal one measure, sent repeatedly through tap-tempo from Teletype. eg JF.TICK 4 meaning four notes per measure

JF.TICK 0 resets the timebase to the start of the measure.

So you can’t set tick lower than 49 BPM. Plenty of fun to be had clocking it with Teletype, especially since the DEL.X and DEL.R OPs help acheive some similar functions as Geode’s repeats.

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A Tascam DR40/44/100 seems to fit your description perfectly, plus you get a recorder and basic effects thrown in.

and the answer was right there all along! tryna learn too many things at once rn (so goes with teletype) and things are falling out of my brain faster than I can stuff em in!

literally the kindest rtfm I’ve ever seen. <3

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