Does anyone know of a module that can full-wave rectify multiple 2+ waveforms in 4hp or less? Not including disting…? I often want to full-wave rectify multiple outputs from my triple sloths and can’t find a solution that fits my needs…

https://www.schneidersladen.de/en/cfm-bhwr.html plus
https://intellijel.com/shop/eurorack/or/

would do it, if a bit inelegant, and only 2 waveforms. But, also these would have other functions!

Honestly a Disting is probably a good idea. Mk 1 can be found affordably.

Thanks but unfortunately there is a voltage drop with the OR module and I’m not sure if this works exactly? I’m looking for full-wave rectification, flipping any negative voltage to positive for a waveform.

Maybe I’m missing something? Seems like you would also need an inverter: https://intellijel.com/shop/eurorack/quad-inverter/

Also I had two distings and sold them because I don’t want to learn/read a manual when patching :roll_eyes: :slight_smile:

Looking further into it seems like that 3 module combo is the only other way out there right now for 2+ signals besides a disting, making a full-wave rectifying circuit seems pretty simple though! (https://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~dsculley/tutorial/diodes/diodes3.html) I might give a 2hp, 4 input/output full-wave rectifier build a try.

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Yeah I wasn’t thinking straight or doing my math correctly. I’m sorry!

You could also just offset and maybe scale your sloth output so that it’s always above 0v, if I understand what you’re going for. Are you basically wanting sloth output to be useful in a unipolar scenario?

yea o/a/x2 comes to mind, obviously not the same folding effect as a rectified signal. maybe you could diy a kinks with three of the top third instead of the bottom two sections? :stuck_out_tongue: (i have no concept of how difficult that would be lol, honestly i don’t have it but all of kinks’ functions look like they’d do cool things with sloths inputs!)

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The passive full wave rectifying circuit you link to is easy to build but will also lead to the output being lower by two diode drops (~1.2V). If this isn’t acceptable for your purposes, then a slightly more complex precision rectifying circuit like this one should work: https://www.ti.com/lit/ug/tidu030/tidu030.pdf

It’d be fairly easy to make a little 2-4HP module with a bunch of these circuits on. I’m getting a batch of boards made soon, I could put one together for you if you wanted…

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This is perfect Barnaby!

I’ve been looking at the kinks pcb/circuit diagram thinking just that @renegog! I don’t need the extra s&h + logic in this case though, but definitely they’re a good pair.

@barnaby Absolutely! that would be awesome, I’ve been building for a while now but haven’t gotten too deep into circuit design, was thinking of using this as a first project, would love to see how you do it. Happy to pitch in for costs!

@xenus_dad no worries! I’m just figuring this stuff out myself, and yeah basically sloths can drop below 0v which makes their signal not so great for many scenarios.

8NU8R from Malekko.

I bought one for a sloth for this exact reason. I said similar elsewhere, but a triple sloth with full-wave recitification, offset, and attenuation would never ever ever leave my rack.

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I was thinking exactly this as well, going to write Andrew and see what he would think about someone modifying sloths like that. Might not have enough space for it in 8hp but I bet it could be done in 10…12… Six more mini pots and 3 switches… Maybe even throw some logic in there… The real question, what to call this enhanced triple-super-sloth-party??

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FYI Andrew got back to me in usual fashion, practically minutes! He suggested just making a better 8NU8R with 4 i/o’s in 4-6hp. He’s fine with modifications for personal use but not for re-marketing, which makes sense of course.

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Looks like there’s no official collective noun for sloths (à la gaggle of geese, murder of crows etc), but there are some fun suggestions here: http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview/id/428999.html

If you have some DIY experience then I’d say something like this would be a perfect first PCB design project! Or even just a quick stripboard build. I’d still be happy to make one if you wanted though.

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I’m going to give it a go! I’ve done some pretty complex builds but I’m super new to building from a circuit diagram, first step, learn how to read a circuit diagram! :stuck_out_tongue: breadboard up a test then figure out how designing pcb’s works in Eagle… I might be in over my head but that’s where you learn things, right?

Favorite names from that list: “A snore of sloths.” & “a loiter of slobs”

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Hi guys,

Maybe this has been asked before, but how safe are synths in general and modular systems? Can they catch fire? I am a little bit paranoid and since my collection is getting bigger I am starting to worry a little…

If you‘re concerned because you can feel your modules heat up as you use them, that‘s actually normal for analog modules! And seeing as you‘re using a Doepfer case that features a linear power supply (if I remember correctly), that will add to the heat. The Doepfer cases actually feature a lot of room, so I would not be worried at all. As long as you make sure all modules are properly connected to the busboards and you keep cables out of your case, you should be fine.

I think I’m just concerned with electricity in general, afraid that things could catch fire at night while I’m sleeping and stuff

I would suggest plugging things into a decent power strip / surge protector, then you have a single switch to ensure everything is off.

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I only have my system powered up when working on it.

Electricity doesn’t inherently cause fires. Electical fires are caused by heat created by short circuits or other failures that cause short circuits where the resistance of the materials being heated aren’t destoryed before they create enough heat to cause ignition of the surrounding materials. You’re dealing with fairly low voltage/low amperage devices that have very little risk of fire inherently. Each of your devices are designed to manage their own power against failures.

If you have concens and want to allay them, as noted, make sure your eletrical outlets are in good condition and that your power strips,etc. are in good, working order. (Also make sure your patch cables keep away from outlets, but that’s more of a health risk than a fire risk.)

Which is to say, just because you have a bunch of devices and lot of wires you can see, there’s no significantly increased risk of fire. They’re just standard electical applicances and pose similar risks to the other appliances that you already have around. Most failures merely destory the functionality of the appliance, not the things around it.

Think of it like starting a fire in a cold fireplace; in order for the wood to actually burn, it (and the material around it) has to be heated long enough and to a high enough temperature for there to be enough heat for the material to begin combustion.

If you wish to be :100: certain, just unplug your system when it’s not in use.

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There is/was. XAOC recently delinked everything to do with the expert firmware because they were sick of answering questions about it. The question arose on MW the other day and somebody posted a link, but now MW is down again. :tired_face:

Edit: while we wait, some videos

Edit: FOUND IT! http://xaocdevices.com/manuals/xaoc_batumi_manual_2016.pdf (scroll down to the Appendix)

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I have two cases, sometimes I use them together, sometimes only one at a time. I don’t have the space or desire to put a headphone output module in both cases (even a 2hp one). I’m looking for a standalone box (maybe small guitar pedal sort of size) with stereo inputs that can handle euro levels, a volume control and a headphone output. Even better if it’s battery powered. Does anyone have any ideas? It could totally be DIY if there was something that could be adapted to suit.

I know plenty of mixers handle euro levels okay but I don’t really need the mixing and want it to be as small as possible ideally.