DivKid, Chris Meyer (Learning Modular), and Kim Bjorn (Patch & Tweak) are halfway through a four-episode livestream series building an absolutely giant eurorack system (21U, 197hp per row) and talking through each module as they go, along with community questions and etc.

The first two episodes are up:

Episode 3 (Filters, VCAs, submixers, and crossfaders) will be tomorrow 2:30p Eastern Time, and Episode 4 (LFOs, envelopes, modulators, effects, final mixing, and audio output) will be Saturday, also at 2:30p Eastern.

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Amazing series, have been watching this while soldering DIY modules … could listen to Chris Meyer talk about this stuff for hours more. Tempted to sign up for one of his courses.

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I got access to some of his courses through Patreon. They’re very good. And really been enjoying the series with DivKid. Have had them on while grading homework. I think I’ll watch them all again.

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aynone here owns/know the erica synths sampledrum?

I just accidentally got one 10min ago and got two questions:

  1. is it possible to zoom in to precisely set the start + end points?
    I have a sound looping perfectly on the computer, but clicking in the sampledrum and I can’t understand how to zoom in. I know you can zoom in to manually set slices but in this case I don’t want to slice this sample, it’s just basic droning loop;

  2. once you have a loop playing, how the hell do you stop it?

I can’t find the answers in the manual.

thank you!

I was offered a Ochd in a trade: is there anything it does that I cannot do with Just Friends (or Stages / Tides) ?

I think you may have replied to the wrong person. I have no experience with either module.

ooppss indeed I was meant to reply to the main thread, sorry

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I have ochd and JF, and I’m happy I have both. JF is obviously a much more versatile module, and can certainly do something like what Ochd does (and with a lot more control over shapes and relative frequencies). However, I’ve never used my JF for that because I love it too much as a polyphonic oscillator :slight_smile: What’s really nice about ochd is that it is so instantly and easily useable. So quick to use that you end up trying different LFOs all over your system. I also love that each frequency is tuned by hand to be unsynced with the others but very useable musically. (Hard to put my finger on how they did this really!)

I’d love a version that had an offset and attenuverter for each output mind you… (Would even sacrifice four of the outputs so that this would fit in the hp.)

EDIT: actually, if anyone knows of a small hp module that attenuates and offsets, let me know! Something like Blinds but way less hp! That would make ochd way more useful.

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ALM’s isn’t the highest density, but it has one knob per function and great visual cues (which, for me, makes it preferable to Shades for offset and attenuversion).

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I can’t say enough good things about the TAM, but I don’t know how you’d get one without building it yourself (or getting someone to do it for you).

6hp, so you could have 2 in the space of a Blinds and have six channels ;p

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I’m a fan of Happy Nerding’s 3xMIA, which gives you 3 attenuverters with offset in 6hp. It also lets lets you do CV attenu-mixing of up to 6 CV ins (without offset – the three additional CV ins replace the offsets when you plug something in to them). Super flexible, super hp-efficient without being too fiddly.

ALM’s O/A/x2 is also great (2 attenuverters with offset in 4hp), as Gexex already mentioned.

As you mentioned Blinds, Mutable Instrument’s main simple attenuverter is Shades (6hp, 3 attenuverters, serial normalization for mixing), but it doesn’t really have offset (there’s jumpers on the back that let you turn on reference voltages in some channels, which when combined with normalization lets you do offsetting, but… it’s a little indirect imo)

Fonitronik’s Cascade is more or less identical to Shades, but in 4hp.

Doepfer’s A-138c is 8hp 4 attenuverters (with a mix out attenuator as well), but also doesn’t do offset.

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O/A/x2 and 321 are easy to recommend in space efficency.

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I never thought of it as indirect – the default jumper setting is +5V normalized to each channel. It works just like Frames, or the A-138m’s default setting for input row 1. Offsetting is just a matter of plugging a cable into channel 1 or 2 and taking the output from channel 2.

Shades is less packed with stuff than 321 or 3xMIA, but I prefer its ergonomics by far. Fully CW is unity gain, so with a bipolar offset on a second channel, you can transpose pitch without messing up tracking.

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The Intellijel Triatt or Triplatt are also very similar to Mutable Shades.

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You’re right, indirect wasn’t the right word. I was more lamenting that you lose a channel if you want to use offset, unless I’m misunderstanding something

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Can anybody recommend a mixer module that has attenuators to control/modulate the strength of the signals for each individual input? (Like, one with not just a single knob for the final mixed output signal) I know that Blinds can somewhat work like this however I need one that doesn’t polarize the signal and just mutes the signal at the leftmost knob turn.

I might not be quite understanding what you are after, but any mixer that is ā€œDC coupledā€œ should do it. The equivalent to Blinds from mutable would be Veils, which is a quad VCA and mixer.

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While I know there’s a lot of mixers with attenuverters these days, I feel like not is still the norm? Pretty much all the 8hp or less Doepfer mixers, Happy Nerding 6xMix, Joranalogue Mix 3 (has VCA’s), the 2hp mixers, etc.

I like Levit8 since it can invert if you want, but it’s a switch rather than range so it’s still very easy to turn down to 0. It’s also 8 channels and lets you amplify signals x2.

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I’m not quite sure if I understood your question correctly. But whilst reading it, the TRANSIENT MODULES 2m mixer module came to my mind.
It has an attenuator on each input as well as an attenuator on both outputs and all the inputs can be cleverly normalised in three different ways to suit your specific requirements (like stereo/mono operation for instance)…
Maybe that’s what you’re after?

This would probably work alright but I don’t think I need a DC coupled one since I only need it for audio and not CV.