Just modules in chronological order top left to bottom right in each case and same with cases - top left to bottom right in stacked cases…

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This makes me want to try an alphabetical approach hah! Or think of other arbitrary organizational methods…

Not helpful to @czzbx probably, but because of the small size of my case (6u 70hp) I find that sometimes it’s better to not put modules right next to each other which are often patched together as it can lead to too dense a bunch of cables… In recent reorganizations I’ve been thinking a lot about cable placement (I’m sort of working on building a semi-permanent patch) and keeping cables out of the way of Teletypes screen is one of my primary concerns—I tried building a braided cable of all 11 triple sloths outputs literally braided together going from one edge of the case to the other as a central stabilizing treebranch to wrap patch cords around… felt like it risked putting strain on the Sloths patch points and I rarely use all 11 outputs anyways, but a fun experiment and always good to keep my braiding skills sharp as my hair grows longer :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Generally speaking I do a L-R flow though: sound sources to matrix mixer on the top, cv control sequencing under the sound sources, final mix/eq/effects and output under the matrix mixer.

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after a year of shuffling things around (6U/84hp), this (percussion-oriented system) seems to work OK. as others have said, generally L-R, keeping ‘combined’ modules near-adjacent to one another. percussion on the left (though there are always exceptions), close to Steppy/PNW, to the left of Switch 4 (a mixer/mute module, of sorts), which then goes to Mimeophon (typically end-of-chain for one voice) … this works for a fixed patch, but everything (this particular logic/flow) could go out the window when I start again from scratch

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does anyone know if VCFQ tracks v/8 better than 3sisters ?

@dan_derks I thought u told me this (?) at one point but I figured I would confirm in public internet space

in my short previous experience with euro I made some pretty fun sounds with tuned filter FM but had some pretty not fun experience with tracking calibration loss on 3sis (me ears r sensitivee) so I figured I’d research alternatives

vcfq tracks v/8 real dang good, but from what i remember only in pinged situations – i can’t recall if it would self-oscillate to a held tone. i miss that filter tons, miss u tons as well!

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You might try CalTrans from Klavis to help you achieve the tracking you’re looking for from a filter, but I think the lack of temperature compensation in 3sis would make any calibration unstable.

I think that’ll do !! If I’m really just in the mood for a sine wave I should have other options, mostly just looking for a 2nd filter that has other weird things to do when I don’t need all of the filtering at once. VCFQ get’s a big plus for also being an lfo but I’m also eyeballing a bionic lester that’s for sale rn which seems cool for other things.

I’m now also now wondering if sisters tracks better than I thought, bc when I had your skiff I was self-oscillating rather than pinging

I think crow can do this now ? or soon ? that’s a nice thought which I hadn’t considered

My VCFQ definitely will not self-oscillate unless it’s self patched and the gain is very carefully set so it sustains but doesn’t clip. It pings very nicely though.

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i don’t own it but the bastl cinnamon [claims] to create a sine wave and track v/oct. from what i’ve seen on yt it works pretty well.

I haven’t scoped it to see how sine of a wave it creates in self-oscillation but it tracks pretty well, yes.

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does anyone have any experience with folktek’s modules?

i’ve been thinking about getting two listens and a synesthesia. the other option would be four mi ears… it seems like that might be a better deal since synesthesia doesn’t track gates nor does it have ears’ onboard contact mics, but there’s something i like about the folkteks, even if as of right now that feeling isn’t based on much.

if it matters, i’d be using these to bring acoustic drums w/ contact mics and tape loops into my modular.

Im a fan of folktek, listen works really well, always thinking about picking a second one up. Synthesisia is nice as well. I would say go for it. I use mine for contact mics to turn into cv sources as well, and it does the trick. Listen can get a really nice hot signal which nice for that.

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I’m trying to find an attenuator/offset module with 10-turn pots. this is the only one I’ve been able to find on MG, but it doesn’t seem to actually exist in a purchasable form. Anybody know of others?

Hi everyone,

I cannot resist anymore; I have to get myself some modular on a limited budget. I am transitioning from regular synths to modular :smiley:
The idea is the Moog Subharmonicon (in love), Beatstep Pro, and the following lunchbox.


Beatstep Pro (8 Drum CV) -> SQUID -> Filters <-> DSP -> Quadratt -> line out
I’ve thought it could be suitable for both studio and live, can do drums and other stuff on the Squid (which lets you change things on the fly), and I can send the Subharmonicon - and in the future other stuff - into any of the modules as well. The Moog filter clone (I said I was on a budget!) also has two noise generators. I would still have two free channels on the Beatstep, and I think the whole set up would pair nicely with the Korg Minilogue I own, which has MIDI/CV I/O. Even pair Mini and Sub on the Beatstep.
My first question would be about power. I’ve thought about this: https://store.synthrotek.com/Power_Lunch
But to be honest, I am still confused a little on how to read the power requirements. Could you guys explain to me by considering the picture? Thank you.
The second question is: am I missing something fundamental for the modular box to work?

I can get Subharmonicon and Beatstep for $800, and if the mod box is ok it should cost around $1000. So what, $1850 whit patch cables?
On the other hand, I could get Subharmonicon, DFAM, and Mother-32 for $1700. I’d like to know your thoughts on that.

Last but not least, any other sort of advice is recommended, from case to module, from power chord to knob :slight_smile:

Thank you all and have a good one!

F

Importantly, I don’t think that the Intellijel 1U modules will fit that Synthrotek case. Unfortunately, there are two formats of “1U” or “tile” modules that are very similar but not the same.

I wouldn’t really reccomended that Behringer filter module, I think you’ll find not having resonance or voltage control over the cutoff frequency to be limiting. I would also consider adding other modulation sources, though you could also patch in the envelopes from your Subharmonicon.

It’s sometimes hard to reccomended specific modules since different people have different intentions for their system.

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Just wanted to say I concur on the filter: if you want to use it as a filter in the typical subtractive synth sense it’d be frustrating. The real intent of the module seems to be more for using the filters to shape the noise, or for mix purposes (high/low cut).

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Welcome!

First bit of advice: buy used whenever possible, especially if you’re on a budget, and acquire things slowly over time, so that you have time to actually learn each bit of the instrument you’re making.

Second: Don’t buy Behringer products, even if the price is “right.” There’s plenty of Moog filter clones out there and chances are you can find a used one somewhere from a more reputable company. Also, don’t buy Synthrotek products. If you want a small starter case, consider the Intellijel Palette, 4ms Pods, or a lunchbox rig from @pulplogic instead.

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Thank you @chalkwalk, @DMR, and others (sorry I am a new user)
I can definitely see the limits of the filter, it would be inconvenient to always depend on the Subharmonicon (SH from now). NO BEHRINGER. Check :smiley:

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Thank you @caelmore. Would you all recommend some alternatives? Will look into the cases right now.

I’m using Three Sisters with my Squid and it’s a superb combo for all the outs.

for less $$/hp I tend to rec Bastl Cinnamon. very diff module, still great filter.

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