#1779

One thing to note is that Nonlinear Circuits just came out with a line of 1u modules that are quite interesting, and far from the usual utility module stuff you see in 1u modules (not to knock the utility stuff though – that’s useful too!). I think they’re worth taking a look at as you decide what to put in your 1u space.

2 Likes
#1780

Same here. Quadratt and Steppy are superbly useful and playable in 1U. Then fill the gaps with some NLC Sloths.

Shakmat Modular also released a small line of 1U which look useful.

1 Like
#1781

Can anyone recommend a good unit conversion module? I have some Doepfer stuff and plenty of Make Noise and going between metric and imperial is giving me headaches. I have a good reckoning in terms of km/h to mph, but thinks like volume (liters/gallons) and especially temperature (is 30°C cold? do I need a sweater) are continuing to throw me off. You’d think there would be a Disting algorithm for this, but alas there is not. I just want all my modules to play nicely together.

6 Likes
#1782

Maths? (:drum::tada: Thank you, I’ll be here all week, enjoy the vegan cutlets.)

In seriousness, what units are you talking about here? Different expectations of modulating voltage? I.e. something that responds to +/- 8V vs 5V

4 Likes
#1783

I’m just being silly. Prior to my first cup of coffee I thought it was funny.

6 Likes
#1784

I have a ribbon controller in 1u.

1 Like
#1785

Does anyone here have experience with the IME Kermit mk3? I wasn’t planning on adding another modulation source for a while, but it looks like an absolute power-house of functionality.

1 Like
#1786

Definitely. Quincas made a strong video:

6 Likes
#1787

last i checked they had been out of everything - looks like they’ve updated! i had been interested in the 1U sloths for some time!

you know, the interesting thing with monome is you can get into a situation where, while utilities are always useful, you don’t really need them… with my system being highly based around monome, mannequins, and i2c, so many of the normal utility modules are nowhere to be seen in my current and planned setups.

i definitely could use some little mults and mixers though, pulp format has some cool ones.

1 Like
#1788

Being in love with the mk2, I don’t think I’d like using the mk3. Those button combos seem particularly unintuitive, and that’s in addition to the menus.

I know the mk3 has a lot more features, but really, the mk2 does exactly what I need it to do; it’s very grab-and-go.

#1789

I had mk2 for a couple years and used it some, but I never loved it. I’m not personally interested in any of the mk3 modules—and the overloaded interfaces are part of why—but I respect them, and Kermit mk3 goes far above and beyond what Kermit mk2 could do. (At a cost.)

#1790

Hey I just got the nRings from warped circuits and it has an “either way” marking on the back of the pcb which is a 10 pin connector. The cable that came with it is keyed and 10 pins. My case has normal (shielded? Whatever it’s called when there’s a border around the pins so you can only insert the cable in one way) 16 pin connectors. Since it is Keyed, it only fits right in the center, so that the very top pins are unused and the very bottom pins are unused. And it’s not perfect, as you can see. It’s not supposed to be connected in the middle right? The -12v of the cable should still connect with the -12v (bottom) pins in the case power even though it doesn’t have a designated -12v side, correct? Should I just use a regular 16 pin ribbon cable instead and just leave the extra empty pins on the module side?

I feel bad asking these basic questions here but I’m not registered on mw or anything, so I apologize about that

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#1791

The case headers you have are called ‘keyed’, “shrouded” or ‘boxed’ headers, and they force the cable to connect in one orientation, as you mentioned.

I think your cable is offset by at least one pin, going off of the image you posted. Instead, the red stripe (-12v connection) should be all the way on the bottom, with three rows of pins on the other side left empty:

Often when a module uses only 10 pins of the connector, a 10-pin to 16-pin cable is used, with only 10 strands of cable (as is the case for the module connected next to the nRings module in your image).

The nRings says ‘either way’ because it detects which line is +12 and which line is -12 and won’t be damaged by reversed power. But for example if you connect the power connector one row off to the side, you could accidentally connect +12 or -12 to ground, which can damage other modules in the case.

4 Likes
#1793

I thought that was the case, but since the cable is keyed and my case power is shrouded, it will not fit like that, so is it safe to use a normal 16 pin ribbon cable with a ten pin module?

Or would I have to get a 10 to 16 pin ribbon cable? Or maybe even cut the two top strands on my 16 pin cable

OR break off the shielding and just stuff it in there

#1794

If the 16-pin to 16-pin cable fits on the module (it might not if the module has a shrouded header) it should be fine, the extra rows in the cable just won’t be connected to anything.

1 Like
#1795

Nice, thanks for your help

#1796

No problem - of course just be sure that the ‘extra’ pins of the cable are the ones disconnected and hanging off the side of the module header, ie don’t ‘center’ the 16-pin cable on the 10-pin module header.

1 Like
#1797

on the topic of 1U love: always impressed with the creativity & quality designs coming from john @pulplogic

check out the switch on this thing:

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IMG_40792493×2493 1.67 MB

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IMG_40802313×2313 1.31 MB

the ergonomics of this are ace - so comfy and satisfying to flick around…

5 way switch/adder ~and~ inputs A + C provide - + 1V offsets when left unpatched so it can double as an octave transposer.

27 Likes
#1798

By chance, I also received a Warped Circuits nRings recently - I just used the ribbon cable supplied (16/10) and connected up with that, followed the ‘red stripe to negative’ logic on the power board for the 16 pin, and trusting that the ‘either way’ printing on the module’s 10 pin connector would work - and it did! Powered up and everything was fine.

2 Likes
#1799

that’s weird. maybe he sent me a 10 to 10 pin ribbon cable by mistake. but yeah the normal 16 to 16 pin worked fine. pretty module, worth the wait imo

1 Like