Fates - a DIY norns DAC board for Raspberry Pi

My yellow OLED from DigiKey unexpectedly turned up a couple of days ago!

Unfortunately, I forgot to order the 4th encoder, but I now have everything else I need to finish my build.

Nice! Will it have that rad yellow Elektron look?

Mouser has white displays and encoders back in stock this week.

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Yellow OLEDs are pretty cool (and all look pretty similar).

A new Fates is born!

I’m using the RPi from my Norns Shield, as I forgot to buy a PSU for my RPi 4B, and don’t have a USB-C cable I can use to power it from my laptop.

Also forgot to order the 4th encoder. Oops.

Everything seems to work, and the yellow OLED is really nice.


Looking good!

FWIW - You’re totally fine powering via the Pi power input.

Powering from a computer’s USB-C can sometimes be problematic, so yeah - a dedicated power supply is recommended. :slight_smile:

You can also leave the 4th encoder off completely and it won’t cause any issues (unless you want to use ORAC)

That’s cool. I have a micro USB PSU for the RPi 3B+ I’m using for the Norns Shield, just no USB-C one for the the Pi 4B I bought for Fates. One should be delivered today, anyway, so all will be well (thanks to Amazon).

I was planning to install ORAC, so I will be needing the extra encoder.

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ORAC installed and working (except for the absence of the 4th encoder).

That Newhaven OLED really does look lovely…

Off-topic, but @okyeron have you tried making a display window for your case? I’d love to give it a go, but do you happen to have the exact size of the display cutout, so I could have one cut?

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I’ve cut a few press-fit screen protector/windows, but need more clear material.

However, I think the sizing will be variable depending on the specific laser settings (and the cut-width aka “kerf”). So if you’re ordering from a service provider, this is maybe 50/50 to work.

I’ve got one sized that works well when I cut my cases, but only like 3 out of 4 fit properly snug (the other often being too loose).

Really? You have some pictures of that please :blush:

I was thinking of having it cut a little larger than needed, then I’ll file or sand down until it’s a good, snug fit.

What size should I be aiming for?

last few shots on my instagram have the screen protector on my unit - plus doing the same thing with norns-shield cases.

(in the illustrator file) My fates case window is 66.322 mm x 32.985 mm. The window is 66.794mm x 33.219mm. The actual cut hole in the acrylic measures at 66.56mm wide with my micrometer.

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Cool, thanks very much! I’m going to get top and bottom plates cut for my Norns Shield, so I’ll have some transparent windows cut at the same time, I think.

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Thx these look very nice tbh

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Hola Fates builders and @okyeron . I recently got busy snapping together a new case for my Fates with some Lego bricks with a sweet flip up display.
I posted a shot on Instagram last week but thought that I’d share some photos here on lines along with some more detailed images related to the build.
Has anyone else made a flip up screen? I’d love to see how others are solving some of the hardware build issues that pop up when modifying the component placements.

Build Details...

Here is a top down shot with the screen fully upright, allowing you to see the rainbow wire connection from behind the screen. I used one of the large gray Lego build plates as the base platform under the Pi and behind the screen. While the plastic is not very ridged, it is really easy to work with and quite thin, which allowed me to seat the screen on Lego Hinges and still have some room with all the wires.

Here is a breakdown of the different parts as it stands right now, Lego build on the left and Fates build on the Right.

For the OLED connection, I only had some rainbow wire with some spare female headers to connect to right angle male headers on both the Fates PCB and on the back of the screen. Ideally on future attempts I would use the other version of the display with a 20-pin Molex Connector (52271-2079) ( I believe that the part number is NHD-2.7-12864WDW3-M) along with an adapter from adafruit that can attach to the header holes.

Last image is a closeup of the wonky soldering job on the header wires.

One additional note is that when making the flip-up screen, the Encoder 1 and Button 1 are pretty compromised in terms of location in relation to the screen - I need to reach around to get to either of them. Still considering removing them from the PCB and wiring them up either to the left of the screen or below the screen as the Lego components in yellow suggest (just not working yet). We’ll see how annoying it becomes as it gets more use.

I can’t wait to see how the shape changes over the months :slight_smile:


Very nice, if only there was room to fit a little servo motor in there for automatic screen action


FWIW- if it makes the current setup easier for positioning wires (or with a change to a ribbon/molex version) — the screen can be rotated 180 in pi settings :slight_smile:

(Also - this is so awesome! :tada:)

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That’s great to know about the screen rotation. The ribbon cable would be much more elegant and allow for it to sit closer to the board when down - for sure the way to go. Just needed to see if it would work first :). @okyeron do you have any plans to release the eagle file for community mods? I’ve been tinkering with some additional ideas on a eurorack port. Thanks again for your energies so far!


20 characters of Good job @frankchannel for the battery pack :ok_hand:t2:

Here is latest version of the fates Alu case


just got my Pi 4 in and had Fates up and running in 15 minutes. Everything is working so far, wifi and filesystem expanded no problem, and that default app is really pretty sounding. Super excited to get into this thing, thanks to everyone for all the hard work!

I’ll be back in a few days with a thousand questions I’m sure but now I gotta get through all the docs