Fates - a DIY norns DAC board for Raspberry Pi

[reijo]

wow. thanks for your reply!!! Gonna try this!

[fiocz]

I’m trying to connect from terminal and I get this …

@ WARNING: POSSIBLE DNS SPOOFING DETECTED! @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
The ECDSA host key for norns.local has changed,
and the key for the corresponding IP address fe80::90ed:7045:e320:fc55%en0
is unknown. This could either mean that
DNS SPOOFING is happening or the IP address for the host
and its host key have changed at the same time.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ WARNING: REMOTE HOST IDENTIFICATION HAS CHANGED! @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
IT IS POSSIBLE THAT SOMEONE IS DOING SOMETHING NASTY!
Someone could be eavesdropping on you right now (man-in-the-middle attack)!
It is also possible that a host key has just been changed.
The fingerprint for the ECDSA key sent by the remote host is
SHA256:1JxXsCwJCm/uHIsU1IMFbMyGSdWj8nmtVE47CQRXhwU.
Please contact your system administrator.
Add correct host key in /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts to get rid of this message.
Offending ECDSA key in /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts:1
ECDSA host key for norns.local has changed and you have requested strict checking.
Host key verification failed.
MacBook-Pro-di-Andrea:~ andreafiocca$

Any idea ?

[okyeron]

This is kinda normal and will happen if you swap SD cards between pis or use different SD cards with the same pi.

Fix posted below

[rvense]

Did you reflash or similar? I’m guessing your Norns has regenerated its host key… or maybe you previously connected to a Norns from this computer, and now you’re connecting to a new one?

In case its not clear, /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts is a file that contains the keys of all the hosts you’ve previously connected to. The .ssh directory is inside your home folder, but normally hidden (because its name starts with a .). In macOS Sierra and later you can type cmd+shift+. to see hidden files and folders. Open the file in TextEdit, find the line that says something about norns.local and delete (or just trash the file completely if you don’t do a lot of ssh’ing).

If you’ve got two Norns, this’ll come up again.

[fiocz]

Normal sounds pretty good …

[okyeron]

(in addition to what rvense posted…)

This is the important part

@fiocz

Add correct host key in /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts to get rid of this message.
Offending ECDSA key in /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts:1
ECDSA host key for norns.local has changed and you have requested strict checking.

All you need to do is (from a terminal)

sudo nano /Users/andreafiocca/.ssh/known_hosts

Then find the line with norns.local (or the IP address of that device) and remove it. In nano, you can arrow down to the line and then use ctrl-K to cut the line, then ctrl-O to save and ctrl-X to exit.

If you have multiple devices and want to access them with zeroconf (norns.local syntax) you could change the hostname of the fates machine using raspi-config - I have one box setup as fates.local for example (but then you need to remember that for access via maiden, etc.).

FYI - I think the norns shield has raspi-config disabled by default so the above might not be doable on a shield device.

[fiocz]

It worked . Many thanks @okyeron and @rvense !!

[frankchannel]

I had this same problem, but managed to fix it as follows. If you built your arc more than 14 months ago (like I did), you’ll want to pull the latest firmware from TheSlowGrowth’s repository and re-flash your USB board. This is because norns decides if your devices is a grid or an arc based on the device id, which is set in the USB board’s firmware (not the FTDI eeprom). The device id used by the old arc clone is incompatible with norns, but the latest firmware update (from 14 months ago) fixes this. Hope that helps…

[mokomo]

brilliant.
I’m a newb at 3d software but have downloaded blender to give edits a shot.

I was thinking
(a) create a suitable hole for a 3.5mm stereo jack to wire oneself as i’d find it very convenient compared to 2 L + R audio ins
(b) slicing some vent holes just incase the Rpi 4 gets too warm
© room for a battery and charging port (yes a luxury though I have a slim 3800 mAh kit that might work [luxury]
(d) making the case a little taller to accomodate © [luxury]
(e) power switch for ©+(d)
(f) need to think of some clever way to get power from the power kit to the Rpi internally

lots to do!

[9BeatCombo]

Hey everyone!

Could do with some soldering advise for my Fates build. Recently got a Fates kit with the SMD pre-soldered (thanks @okyeron) with the intention of paying someone else to solder the through-hole components as my skill level is ‘has been known to solder on occasion’. In the end I decided to solder the components myself partly to improve and partly for reckless fun.

I’ve finished soldering all the components but have yet to test the PCB with a voltmeter as I have a few anxieties. Do I need to remove the white smears on PCB, if so, how? I didn’t see any instruction for soldering the UART pins in the build guide, is this required?

Here are some snaps of the PCB:

There is a small amount of damage to the PCB in the bottom right, below the UART, in the image below where I de-soldered two pins that had bridged. V

[okyeron]

Everything looks generally OK to me.

a couple notes:

• a couple pins on the display might need a little nudge/bending with needle-nose pliers to get them back to “straight”

• at least 2 pins there have some solder way up the pin which might make it difficult to insert into the socket. Give it a try and see if those blobs are in the way. Hitting those with the iron again with a light “flick” motion can help move the solder around or get rid of excess (ideally you’re trying to get some of the solder to stick to the iron instead of the pin).

• UART connector. Just leave it off. It’s really an overkill item for connections (like a “just in case” item - I’ve never actually used it on my own boxes).

• some of the pi pin headers solder points look a little “blobby” - consult the Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering for some visual examples of good vs bad soldering.

• the white smears are just leftover flux from the solder. You can try to use a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol (90% rubbing alcohol) to clean it up a bit. But really you dont need to worry too much about it.

• Before you apply power - Check for continuity between the 5v/GND pin holes near the USB jack. There should NOT be continuity there. It’s just a convenient place to check for power shorts.

[Gregory_Delabelle]

Thanks @frankchannel so just downloading the arc4 hex again shall do it, if I understand well?

[frankchannel]

Yes, the hex files were updated with the changes as well

[Gregory_Delabelle]

20 characters of OMG
I’ll test this tonight

[9BeatCombo]

Thanks for the quick reply and detailed notes, super helpful!
Will report back on the outcome of the build.

[coreyr]

REMINDER TO NEW FATES USERS:

Do not update to the newest firmware via the internal norns menu.

[okyeron]

NEW NORNS UPDATE 200129

Update must be run manually and NOT from the on-device SYSTEM>UPDATE menu item

Instructions here:
https://github.com/okyeron/fates/releases/tag/2.2.8

FYI - re-uploading right now this release to fix a softcut bug.

[robotfunk]

I’ve not run this update yet, but perhaps I should. Somehow MIDI is failing silently on me. I just hooked up a brand new Korg NanoKontrol Studio, and I can select it fine in MIDI devices, but none of the MIDI apps respond. If I go to maiden and type in the following on the command line I get zero response.

m = midi.connect()
m.event = function(data) tab.print(data) end

Anything I can do at this point to troubleshoot?

[okyeron]

with your code, the midi device must be in slot #1. (you could also check to make sure the other device slots are set to none)

[grandcarpet]

I just received my new rpi3b+ and the device turned on okay; however, I found that one of the encoders wasn’t working so I figured it may be related to some bad GPIO soldering I did on the PCB so I touched up a few and after I plugged it back in I saw some smoke. I felt around and the area around the USB-C power output was getting really hot, particularly around C7. I’ve since desoldered the GPIO header and I’m gonna clean it and attempt again with a new header.

That said, is there risk of any of the components being damage and if so is there a way I can confirm it with a multimeter or something?