#1097

It worked . Many thanks @okyeron and @rvense !!

2 Likes
#1098

I had this same problem, but managed to fix it as follows. If you built your arc more than 14 months ago (like I did), you’ll want to pull the latest firmware from TheSlowGrowth’s repository and re-flash your USB board. This is because norns decides if your devices is a grid or an arc based on the device id, which is set in the USB board’s firmware (not the FTDI eeprom). The device id used by the old arc clone is incompatible with norns, but the latest firmware update (from 14 months ago) fixes this. Hope that helps…

4 Likes
#1099

brilliant.
I’m a newb at 3d software but have downloaded blender to give edits a shot.

I was thinking
(a) create a suitable hole for a 3.5mm stereo jack to wire oneself as i’d find it very convenient compared to 2 L + R audio ins
(b) slicing some vent holes just incase the Rpi 4 gets too warm
© room for a battery and charging port (yes a luxury though I have a slim 3800 mAh kit that might work [luxury]
(d) making the case a little taller to accomodate © [luxury]
(e) power switch for ©+(d)
(f) need to think of some clever way to get power from the power kit to the Rpi internally

lots to do!

1 Like
#1100

Hey everyone! :slight_smile:

Could do with some soldering advise for my Fates build. Recently got a Fates kit with the SMD pre-soldered (thanks @okyeron) with the intention of paying someone else to solder the through-hole components as my skill level is ‘has been known to solder on occasion’. In the end I decided to solder the components myself partly to improve and partly for reckless fun. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

I’ve finished soldering all the components but have yet to test the PCB with a voltmeter as I have a few anxieties. Do I need to remove the white smears on PCB, if so, how? I didn’t see any instruction for soldering the UART pins in the build guide, is this required?

Here are some snaps of the PCB:

84123176_605884673520727_7441865970940903424_n
84123176_605884673520727_7441865970940903424_n3640×2730 912 KB

83609529_1005766666463130_218171921886347264_n
83609529_1005766666463130_218171921886347264_n3640×2730 1.22 MB

There is a small amount of damage to the PCB in the bottom right, below the UART, in the image below where I de-soldered two pins that had bridged. V

83186284_502955430407836_8281802243636723712_n
83186284_502955430407836_8281802243636723712_n2730×3640 844 KB
83817188_570898570302520_6330832144205611008_n
83817188_570898570302520_6330832144205611008_n2730×3640 689 KB

83190142_196233801498967_583168288628932608_n
83190142_196233801498967_583168288628932608_n3640×2730 740 KB

#1101

Everything looks generally OK to me.

a couple notes:

  • a couple pins on the display might need a little nudge/bending with needle-nose pliers to get them back to “straight”

  • at least 2 pins there have some solder way up the pin which might make it difficult to insert into the socket. Give it a try and see if those blobs are in the way. Hitting those with the iron again with a light “flick” motion can help move the solder around or get rid of excess (ideally you’re trying to get some of the solder to stick to the iron instead of the pin).

  • UART connector. Just leave it off. It’s really an overkill item for connections (like a “just in case” item - I’ve never actually used it on my own boxes).

  • some of the pi pin headers solder points look a little “blobby” - consult the Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering for some visual examples of good vs bad soldering.

  • the white smears are just leftover flux from the solder. You can try to use a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol (90% rubbing alcohol) to clean it up a bit. But really you dont need to worry too much about it.

  • Before you apply power - Check for continuity between the 5v/GND pin holes near the USB jack. There should NOT be continuity there. It’s just a convenient place to check for power shorts.

4 Likes
#1102

Thanks @frankchannel so just downloading the arc4 hex again shall do it, if I understand well?

#1103

Yes, the hex files were updated with the changes as well

#1104

20 characters of OMG
I’ll test this tonight

#1105

Thanks for the quick reply and detailed notes, super helpful! :smiley:
Will report back on the outcome of the build. :+1:

#1106

REMINDER TO NEW FATES USERS:

Do not update to the newest firmware via the internal norns menu.

2 Likes
#1107

NEW NORNS UPDATE 200129

Update must be run manually and NOT from the on-device SYSTEM>UPDATE menu item

Instructions here:
https://github.com/okyeron/fates/releases/tag/2.2.8

FYI - re-uploading right now this release to fix a softcut bug.

4 Likes
#1108

I’ve not run this update yet, but perhaps I should. Somehow MIDI is failing silently on me. I just hooked up a brand new Korg NanoKontrol Studio, and I can select it fine in MIDI devices, but none of the MIDI apps respond. If I go to maiden and type in the following on the command line I get zero response.

m = midi.connect()
m.event = function(data) tab.print(data) end

Anything I can do at this point to troubleshoot?

#1109

with your code, the midi device must be in slot #1. (you could also check to make sure the other device slots are set to none)

#1110

I just received my new rpi3b+ and the device turned on okay; however, I found that one of the encoders wasn’t working so I figured it may be related to some bad GPIO soldering I did on the PCB so I touched up a few and after I plugged it back in I saw some smoke. I felt around and the area around the USB-C power output was getting really hot, particularly around C7. I’ve since desoldered the GPIO header and I’m gonna clean it and attempt again with a new header.

That said, is there risk of any of the components being damage and if so is there a way I can confirm it with a multimeter or something?

#1111

Hmmm… around C7 is the 3.3v voltage regulator. If this is toast, the DAC will not function properly. If you look at the github troubleshooting guide for testing voltages the spot listed there for 3.3v is coming right out of the vreg. If you don’t have 3.3v there, that’s bad and the vreg will need to be replaced.

Before that - triple check for GND-5V shorts. Easiest is to use the pin holes near C7 there (as shown on the voltage testing pic in the link before). If you get continuity there, that’s bad.

#1112

Thank you I’ll check it out. Is it possible that my changes to the GPIO soldering could’ve caused this? The only other thing that’s different this time around is a new 5V 3A rpi power adapter – no smoke issues before this.

Assuming the worst has happened is it just a matter of replacing the 3.3v regulator or am I up to my knees in it? :sweat_smile:

#1113

thanks, did not know that other slots needed to be set to none. Now I get note / CC numbers in matron command line, but still no sound from any MIDI apps such as FM7 or Molly or Passersby… driving me nuts…

#1114

I think there might be some conflict if the same device is listed in multiple slots. Havent had time to really test that much. New update may fix some of these issues as well.

If you get data from your simple script, midi should be working and it may be a script-specific issue or perhaps parameters need to be set in those scripts. (check to be sure a different channel or device is not selected in params?)

FWIW - Testing just now with a fresh install of MollyThePoly, my Block controller works just fine to play notes

#1115

Maybe? If a GPIO was shorted, yeah - that’d be bad. Impossible to diagnose blind. Post pictures before doing major surgery.

No idea! :grin: (seriously tho… I can’t offer any advice without seeing the board or testing it.)

Also FWIW… “smoke issues” are “bad” and should not happen ever. If they do happen, it’s usually once and then things dont work anymore. :slight_smile:

#1116

thanks, turns out I’m a tit, the issue is in the Nanokontrol editor software…

1 Like