#21
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#22

I run my whole modular mix through a LAL Flikrrr lately. Very good for adding natural sounding dynamics to a drums section.

Industrialectric Echo Degrader also helps me with synthesizer effects. It produces the repeating dub filth.

1 Like
#23

I love the MoogerFoogers for synths - especially the delay and the chorus. The mini delay is great as well. Recently received a Shallow Water so I’ve been digging that a lot. Also like trying different saturation/harmonics pedals with my synths (Sub37, Prophet 6, Minitaur, LXR and a few euro cases). A few I’m trying now are the Deco and the Blister Agent (the guys from Wilco use these all over the place).

EDIT: Also, I saw an against the clock where Rival Consoles uses the Murph as a resonant EQ to layer parts in a track… this blew my mind at the time.

5 Likes
#24

20200202_095553
20200202_0955533072×2735 4.09 MB

Instant character!

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#25

Nicely put :)     

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#27

This was very inspiring for me as well. So much so that I bought a PT-nano+ and decided that if it didn’t fit on there, then I really didn’t need it. I especially loved the part that her bass was a (used?) SX bass with flat-wound strings. She did not have a string preference because they were still the original strings. Anyway, back on topic.

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#28

Great discussion here, thank you.

Odd question for you: do you all have any recommended wall wart plugs for your pedals? I’ve got access to a box of old pedals i’m interested in experimenting with but no power and wasn’t sure if I needed to be particular in this area (not interested in going as far as a pedalboard system).

#29

I use a 1spot pro PSU. This is down to running several pedals with different voltage requirements. Solid and never failed. Only issue is that it has a really really bright LED.

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#30

The cheap solution is a simple wall-wart ac-dc with a daisy chain. I’ve got one called Godlyke, it feels a bit cheap though.
Better power supplies have jacks that are isolated from each other, and come with different flex-cables to allow for different voltages 9, 12, 18, 24 etc and different polarity. I have a good one from Cioks called DC-10 that feels really solid and was pretty expensive. I also have a cheaper Harley-Benton Iso-2 Pro which seem to have the same functionality (more or less).

In general, old analog pedals are most often 9V and don’t draw much, which is why they could be powered by batteries. Newer (or older) digital pedals might be a lot more thirsty and sometimes call for higher voltage.

2 Likes
#32

Good to hear. I can’t afford hardware that would come anywhere close in quality to what I’ve got access to in software, so I’m not expecting anything amazing but it seems to have most of the bases covered that I’d need/want.

#33

Re: power. Make sure to check polarity. Could end up wrecking a pedal.

3 Likes
#34

I shamelessly stole that trick :smiley: It’s pretty effective!

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#35

You probably don’t. Most of the old pedals (pre-digital/DSP age) were 9v center-negative by design so a single battery could power them. You may find an occasional 18v or center-positive pedal. To start, I would get a daisy-chain style power supply like the one mentioned above (I think they are called a OneSpot). I would not purchase individual wall wart adapters unless you can find a box of them for cheap/free. At some point, you may consider a more robust power supply - that may run in the $100-150 range. The CIOKS stuff is great - I have a DC5 and DC10. I also have a Voodoo Labs PedalPower 2+ which was great until it stopped working but the folks at Voodoo offered to fix it for free (not bad after 11 years of use).

For about $20, you can build a basic pedal board with materials from any big-box hardware store. That was my first pedal board which I still use. Nothing fancy. No road case. Just a painted piece of plywood with aluminum trim/hardware. Works great.

1 Like
#36

Huh? What’s a Murph? Need to know; love me some res eq.

#37

Oops - I murf’d the name.

Moog MF-105M Midi Murf

1 Like
#38

i’m actually using a big sky as my main reverb (in a send\return bus on my mixer).
its obviously an incredibly versatile machine but i think it is better suited towards pickup level than line level (especially very hot eurorack levels).
i have to be very careful with the master aux level on the bus because if the signal goes too hot inside the big sky it will easily saturate (not in a nice way), and the worst thing is that the threshold is algorhythm-dependent.
another related problem is that i usually put the pedal on DRYKILL mode (the output is always full wet and the dry\wet knob becomes an output level knob).
if the input level is too high it sort of mess up the drykill mode and bleeds in full level dry signal. to have it back to normal you have to bring down the level and power cycle the pedal or mess with changing preset and switching off and then on the drykill option then sweeping the dry\wet knob.
fact is that with a less hot input i have to boost a bit the output via mixer gain, hence reducing the overall dynamic of the pedal.
i wrote to Strymon to see if it was a faulty unit on my side or if it was common, they confirmed it is common behaviour.
a bit sad for a flagship pedal that’s not really cheap.
that said, i have the Magneto module and its really awesome, it responds brilliantly to every kind of level, giving a pleasant analog saturation when pushed hard.
any experienced user can tell me if the eventide space suffers from similar level-related problems? i’m thinking about swapping…

1 Like
#39

I’m using a Zoom MS-50G multistomp pedal. It’s cheap, it’s small, and can give your synth a ton of character. It can also run on USB or battery power.

It’s not going to compare in quality to some of the more expensive pedals in a one to one effect comparison, but I find it works really well in a modular context as a send effect for a VCO where it comes back in before the VCA/filter.

It’s actually still really good in a pinch as an end of chain effect since you can get a combination of effects that it would be hard to get without a much more expensive/space-hogging multieffect pedal or series of pedals.

I’m going from mono to stereo/mono, but if you’re planning on going stereo to stereo the Zoom MS70 CDR is basically the same thing in stereo.

4 Likes
#40

Yes! They are basically 5u modules in pedal format. Never tried the big delays and chorus, but the minis are nice.

The MF-103 Phaser is the best phaser ever, and way more versatile than I ever thought a phaser could be. It can also be cranked into resonating for some awesome drum sounds.

The MF-102 Ring Mod is likewise very versatile. You can use it as a standalone triangle oscillator (or two in unison if you feed the osc into the input and dial in the Mix for sounds an octave up), or as a vca, or two lfos (the oscillator can do both subsonic oscillation and audio rate).

The MF-107 freqbox is a dedicated oscillator in a box with better pitch cv tracking, audio envelope tracking, variable waveforms, and analog FM.

The 101 is classic Moog ladder filter with lots of modular tweakability and an envelope follower.

Haven’t tried any of the others but they all seem great.

#41

I was curious about that spring reverb, found out how cheap they were and have one on the way :grin:

Also have a Catalinbread Adineko coming. I think it’s going to complement things pretty nicely.

#42

Which make of pedal is it? It’s not obvious from the photo.

Edit: Just found it on Reverb.

1 Like