I think I need some advice for DIY pedal grounding

So I finished my first DIY pedal effect and… it doesn’t work! (of course)
I get sound when it’s in bypass, but there’s nothing coming out, when it’s switched ON. Unless, when I touch the pins of the potentiometers! Then I can hear the effect value of each potentiometer.
So I thought that it might be grounding issue and I’ve been trying to get some info on it, but it’s impossible for me to find some source that explains it in a way where I can understand the foundation of how it works. Because they’re basically more focused on how something (specific) is grounded, rather than why grounding is needed in the first place and how it works generally. If someone has a good source on that, I’d appreciate it!

Need more info. Can you post a schematic/pictures so we can see where you’re at?

1 Like

In addition to what was said above - I highly recommend posting on r/diypedals and the DIYStompboxes forum

But yes - schematic and pictures of the guts are normally needed.

1 Like

+1 asking for pics and a schematic but I suspect that you may have miswired the pots given that you can bypass the signal with your fingertips. It’s also possible that some of the joints there are not soldered completely and are “cold”. Both are super common issues, especially with first builds. BTW, you’re doing a good job troubleshooting.

1 Like

hey guys, thanks for your support!
I actually managed to fix the problem and the pedal is working now! Initially I’ve been using lead free solder, but I bought some lead- based solder for another project (with an FV-1 chip). I was really surprised, how much better the lead-based solder works and decided to rework all the solder joints of my problem pedal - and now it works!

1 Like

Lead-based solder does flow much more pleasantly, but it obviously has environmental issues and potential health issues.

Lead-free solder is a bit tackier; it also melts at a slightly higher melting point. If you have a temperature-controlled iron, turn up the set temperature on it - that tends to help with lead-free solder a lot.

Yeah, I decided to use lead-free solder because of the environmental issues. It is possible to work with it generally, but it’s good to have the lead-based solder as a backup for more problematic situations. Especially the soldering of the 3PDT switch was so smooth and easy with the lead-based solder.